Clutch engages suddenly... not smooth anymore
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My clutch's been acting up, it's becoming quite hard to smoothly shift, it basically engages a bit higher than usual and abruptly (like nothing, nothing, noting... BOOM in gear!)... I also got some 1-2nd shift issues which I think are unrelated.
What could this be? I don't think clutch is worn, as I got only 12K miles (with 4-5 track days), and as far as I know the clutch is self adjusting, so even if worn it should stay relatively low but I guess anything's possible with clutch?!
Any ideas? Car's 2007 C4S, CPO. I just wanted to get some ideas before taking it to dealer.
What could this be? I don't think clutch is worn, as I got only 12K miles (with 4-5 track days), and as far as I know the clutch is self adjusting, so even if worn it should stay relatively low but I guess anything's possible with clutch?!
Any ideas? Car's 2007 C4S, CPO. I just wanted to get some ideas before taking it to dealer.
#3
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: The 911 Nation - 2006 4S Manual 108K Miles
Posts: 490
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
sounds like your clutch is about to.......................
go
i just had mine replaced at 50k, 2006 4S for 3800$. it was stiff and difficult to get into gear, esp problems with 1 to 2nd gear as you describe. they gave me a hairdresser clutch, now it shifts like knife through butter, looking forward to the next 50k!
go
i just had mine replaced at 50k, 2006 4S for 3800$. it was stiff and difficult to get into gear, esp problems with 1 to 2nd gear as you describe. they gave me a hairdresser clutch, now it shifts like knife through butter, looking forward to the next 50k!
#4
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm wondering how I will know when my clutch needs to be replaced. My clutch engages fairly high and without much feel or grab. No problem getting into gear and it shifts smoothly through all the gears. It's first gear that concerns me as it has a high engage point and if does so softly. Then again I rarely pop the clutch so I'm not sure if it's me or not. What is a good way to test it?
#5
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The best way to know when your clutch is failing is when the thing slips under load. For example, if you are going up a hill and you are in a RPM range like only 20000-3000 rpm and you press down on the accelerator and the car doesn't respond by going faster--you will see the rpms reving up, but the speed doesn't correspondingly go up. Once a clutch starts to do that there is nothing you can do to extend the life of that clutch--it has to be replaced. When I was a novice Porsche driver decades ago I went through clutches at way too high a rate. Once I learned what was going on inside the engine I have not had to replace a clutch ever since. It is very easy to get 100,000 miles on a clutch, by just being sensible.
ONLY punch the accelerator only after the clutch pedal is all the way out (fully engaged). The footwork is extremely important. If you punch it when the clutch pedal is in anyway depressed (even partly) you will allow the engine's flywheel to be too fast for the clutch surface and when they start to touch the clutch surface will immediately be burned off by that faster moving flywheel surface.
There is some adjustability with these things. But it's usually not enough to help on seriously worn clutches.
ONLY punch the accelerator only after the clutch pedal is all the way out (fully engaged). The footwork is extremely important. If you punch it when the clutch pedal is in anyway depressed (even partly) you will allow the engine's flywheel to be too fast for the clutch surface and when they start to touch the clutch surface will immediately be burned off by that faster moving flywheel surface.
There is some adjustability with these things. But it's usually not enough to help on seriously worn clutches.
#6
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: The 911 Nation - 2006 4S Manual 108K Miles
Posts: 490
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The best way to know when your clutch is failing is when the thing slips under load. For example, if you are going up a hill and you are in a RPM range like only 20000-3000 rpm and you press down on the accelerator and the car doesn't respond by going faster--you will see the rpms reving up, but the speed doesn't correspondingly go up. Once a clutch starts to do that there is nothing you can do to extend the life of that clutch--it has to be replaced. When I was a novice Porsche driver decades ago I went through clutches at way too high a rate. Once I learned what was going on inside the engine I have not had to replace a clutch ever since. It is very easy to get 100,000 miles on a clutch, by just being sensible.
ONLY punch the accelerator only after the clutch pedal is all the way out (fully engaged). The footwork is extremely important. If you punch it when the clutch pedal is in anyway depressed (even partly) you will allow the engine's flywheel to be too fast for the clutch surface and when they start to touch the clutch surface will immediately be burned off by that faster moving flywheel surface.
There is some adjustability with these things. But it's usually not enough to help on seriously worn clutches.
ONLY punch the accelerator only after the clutch pedal is all the way out (fully engaged). The footwork is extremely important. If you punch it when the clutch pedal is in anyway depressed (even partly) you will allow the engine's flywheel to be too fast for the clutch surface and when they start to touch the clutch surface will immediately be burned off by that faster moving flywheel surface.
There is some adjustability with these things. But it's usually not enough to help on seriously worn clutches.
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I need to find time to take it in.
#9
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
honestly when my clutch goes i will do it at my indi mechanic, it will be cheaper and more productive than to go to dealer. only reason to go to dealer to get it done if you see leaks from seals so you could pursuade dealer to do this job also when clutch goes down and 'substitute' labor for taking clutch down with seal replacements and pay cash for clutch kit parts only.
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
sounds like pressure plate issue and i would not hold my breath to get it covered by warranty. i think they only 'warranty' bearing and some rod there, but not pressure plate, disks and other wear and tear items.
honestly when my clutch goes i will do it at my indi mechanic, it will be cheaper and more productive than to go to dealer. only reason to go to dealer to get it done if you see leaks from seals so you could pursuade dealer to do this job also when clutch goes down and 'substitute' labor for taking clutch down with seal replacements and pay cash for clutch kit parts only.
honestly when my clutch goes i will do it at my indi mechanic, it will be cheaper and more productive than to go to dealer. only reason to go to dealer to get it done if you see leaks from seals so you could pursuade dealer to do this job also when clutch goes down and 'substitute' labor for taking clutch down with seal replacements and pay cash for clutch kit parts only.
#11
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
heh. they will not tell you if it gets covered or not until they open it up.
and when they DO open it up they do charge labor. it`s just that sort of business...
I was fighting with them over my clutch pedal vibration and it went all the way up to local PCNA rep and still it went pretty much into stall stage like - we do need to open it up, but IF we find it is not coverable by warranty - you are 100% responsible for all costs, parts+labor to drop off clutch.
I say - F them, I will better pay my guy as i`ll need his services all the time than to feed those #$#!. really fed up with them all.
but, you know, may be your milage will vary. who knows. just make sure up front with service manager what exactly he will be charging you for before you drop off your car.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
and when they DO open it up they do charge labor. it`s just that sort of business...
I was fighting with them over my clutch pedal vibration and it went all the way up to local PCNA rep and still it went pretty much into stall stage like - we do need to open it up, but IF we find it is not coverable by warranty - you are 100% responsible for all costs, parts+labor to drop off clutch.
I say - F them, I will better pay my guy as i`ll need his services all the time than to feed those #$#!. really fed up with them all.
but, you know, may be your milage will vary. who knows. just make sure up front with service manager what exactly he will be charging you for before you drop off your car.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
heh. they will not tell you if it gets covered or not until they open it up.
and when they DO open it up they do charge labor. it`s just that sort of business...
I was fighting with them over my clutch pedal vibration and it went all the way up to local PCNA rep and still it went pretty much into stall stage like - we do need to open it up, but IF we find it is not coverable by warranty - you are 100% responsible for all costs, parts+labor to drop off clutch.
I say - F them, I will better pay my guy as i`ll need his services all the time than to feed those #$#!. really fed up with them all.
but, you know, may be your milage will vary. who knows. just make sure up front with service manager what exactly he will be charging you for before you drop off your car.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
and when they DO open it up they do charge labor. it`s just that sort of business...
I was fighting with them over my clutch pedal vibration and it went all the way up to local PCNA rep and still it went pretty much into stall stage like - we do need to open it up, but IF we find it is not coverable by warranty - you are 100% responsible for all costs, parts+labor to drop off clutch.
I say - F them, I will better pay my guy as i`ll need his services all the time than to feed those #$#!. really fed up with them all.
but, you know, may be your milage will vary. who knows. just make sure up front with service manager what exactly he will be charging you for before you drop off your car.
Does it matter if it's CPO or manufacturer warranty? I still got manufacturer until August... then CPO kicks in.
#13
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
just discuss all those issues plainly with service manager - who will be responsible for what in case of what.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
may be you will work out a scheme with them not to pay for labor to 'investigate' at least. good luck. warranty clutch jobs are always fun as i understand it.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
do not feel discouraged - speak to SM, may be you will work it out.
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
manufacturer is always better.
just discuss all those issues plainly with service manager - who will be responsible for what in case of what.
may be you will work out a scheme with them not to pay for labor to 'investigate' at least. good luck. warranty clutch jobs are always fun as i understand it.
too many people kill clutches, gearboxes, etc., so dealers are well prepared to fight back, even in cases when it is not our fault. but keep in mind how much all those things cost new and how much comparable job costs at indi mechanic shop.
do not feel discouraged - speak to SM, may be you will work it out.
just discuss all those issues plainly with service manager - who will be responsible for what in case of what.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
may be you will work out a scheme with them not to pay for labor to 'investigate' at least. good luck. warranty clutch jobs are always fun as i understand it.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
do not feel discouraged - speak to SM, may be you will work it out.
![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
Good news, the guy who test drove said clutch is really good and he didn't think there's any issues with clutch. However, he also felt the notchiness of 1-2 gears... he said to bring it for another test drive when the car is really cold early in the morning to see...
The bad news... pretty much NOTHING is covered! either manufacturer or CPO! Only if greabox ITSELF is broken it's covered. Clutch, flywheel, and even synchros are not covered!!!
I totally understand clutch/flywheel.. but synchros?!?! Come on! Anyone had synchros replaced under warranty!
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was wondering if anyone had their synchros replaced under warranty?
My service manager said it is NOT covered as it's a wear item?! I remember I had my Audi synchros replaced under warranty... I might not need a new one, but just wondering if I did.
My service manager said it is NOT covered as it's a wear item?! I remember I had my Audi synchros replaced under warranty... I might not need a new one, but just wondering if I did.