Driver's side window won't go all the way up?
09-12-2010, 03:10 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Driver's side window won't go all the way up?
The automatic window down a half inch when the door is open won't return to fully closed when the door is shut. Hmmmmmm. The battery is a little low, but starts the car just fine. Any takers?
Thanks.
Thanks.
09-12-2010, 03:39 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
09-12-2010, 04:08 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Try the relearn function
Lower the window and continue to depress the button for about 10 seconds. Raise the window and continue to depress the botton for 10 seconds. Repeat this process down and up a second time. (from Tim aka GOTA911)
Lower the window and continue to depress the button for about 10 seconds. Raise the window and continue to depress the botton for 10 seconds. Repeat this process down and up a second time. (from Tim aka GOTA911)
09-12-2010, 04:29 PM
#5
Put window all the way down, open door and jam a thin wide bladed putty knife covered with a damp microfiber cloth between glass and rubber gasket at door and run it back and forth a few times while changing location of mf cloth. IOW, clean rubber gasket as it contacts glass. It's probably sticky as heck from tree sap "mist" collecting there thus causing friction.
Oops. I misread your post. Leaving my suggestion here anyway for other readers possible benefit
Oops. I misread your post. Leaving my suggestion here anyway for other readers possible benefit
09-12-2010, 04:44 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Put window all the way down, open door and jam a thin wide bladed putty knife covered with a damp microfiber cloth between glass and rubber gasket at door and run it back and forth a few times while changing location of mf cloth. IOW, clean rubber gasket as it contacts glass. It's probably sticky as heck from tree sap "mist" collecting there thus causing friction.
Oops. I misread your post. Leaving my suggestion here anyway for other readers possible benefit
Oops. I misread your post. Leaving my suggestion here anyway for other readers possible benefit
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12-14-2014, 09:13 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
Ajayabb has it right... the mention of the low battery makes this pretty certain... this problem can happen anytime the car's electronics have lost power even for a moment (which can occur with a low battery during a start).
The procedure is the owners manual on page 26 and is described as simply this:
The procedure is the owners manual on page 26 and is described as simply this:
If the battery is disconnected and reconnected,
the windows will not be raised automatically when
the door is closed.
the windows will not be raised automatically when
the door is closed.
1. Close the windows with the rocker switch
once.
2. Press the rocker switch upwards again to store
the end position of the windows in the control
unit.
once.
2. Press the rocker switch upwards again to store
the end position of the windows in the control
unit.
12-15-2014, 01:53 AM
#9
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If retraining the window regulator does't solve your problem, it could be that one of the microswitches in the door has gone bad (there's one for the inner handle, outer handle, and door latch mechanism) or the post on the inner door handle is worn.
Inside the car, the handle you pull to open the door has a plastic post molded into the back of it that goes into a little round hole when the handle is at rest. If the post isn't pushing in the switch, the car will think you're opening the door from the inside and will keep the window dropped. Try jiggling that handle or hold it open and press in the microswitch behind it with a small pointy object and see if the window closes. There's another microswitch in the outer door handle that makes the window drop when you lift the handle to open the door. Jiggle that handle too and see if it will move on its own. Also, open the door and manually close the catch that's part of the latch mechanism - there's a microswitch here as well. Don't forget to pull one of the handles to get that door latch back into the open position before shutting the door. Ideally, you'll want to get the window to close again and then play with the 3 assemblies to figure out which one is being problematic. If I had to guess, I'd say it's the inner one and might just be the handle itself. Does the handle close flush against the door spear trim piece like it used to. If not, it can be adjusted by removing the door panel, loosening the 3 screws that are responsible for the positioning of that handle when it closes, and adjusting them. If it closes flush, check the post molded into the handle plastic itself.
Inside the car, the handle you pull to open the door has a plastic post molded into the back of it that goes into a little round hole when the handle is at rest. If the post isn't pushing in the switch, the car will think you're opening the door from the inside and will keep the window dropped. Try jiggling that handle or hold it open and press in the microswitch behind it with a small pointy object and see if the window closes. There's another microswitch in the outer door handle that makes the window drop when you lift the handle to open the door. Jiggle that handle too and see if it will move on its own. Also, open the door and manually close the catch that's part of the latch mechanism - there's a microswitch here as well. Don't forget to pull one of the handles to get that door latch back into the open position before shutting the door. Ideally, you'll want to get the window to close again and then play with the 3 assemblies to figure out which one is being problematic. If I had to guess, I'd say it's the inner one and might just be the handle itself. Does the handle close flush against the door spear trim piece like it used to. If not, it can be adjusted by removing the door panel, loosening the 3 screws that are responsible for the positioning of that handle when it closes, and adjusting them. If it closes flush, check the post molded into the handle plastic itself.
The following 3 users liked this post by Petza914:
12-15-2014, 06:09 PM
#10
Thanks for the posts Storm and Petza! I found a great post on the 996 forum that breaks it down really well so quoted it below. Scenareo 2 applies to me so will replace the door lock mechanism and the door handle microswitch since it's cheap and will have the panel off anyways. Weathers been pretty cold here so Ill post my results when I get to it : )
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2529%2520%2520
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...0%20Left%2C%20
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2529%2520%2520
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...0%20Left%2C%20
I copy pasted this for you. Hope it helps.
It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting.
DOOR MICROSWITCHES
There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system.
Two are separate switches:
a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted.
b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function.
When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM.
The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly:
c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed.
d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position.
e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position.
f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position.
g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position.
TYPICAL FAULTS
All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms:
1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed.
2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up.
3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn.
4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote.
5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason.
6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession.
7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it.
FIXES
The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers:
Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides)
Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right)
The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member):
I didnt put this photo in as you already saw it on another posting..... It shows a broken switch unassembled in parts.
You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number is unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one.
OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM
The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures:
Front lid microswitch
Rear lid microswitch
Oddment compartment microswitch
Glove box microswitch
Radio contact (to detect radio theft)
An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep.
Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the the battery).
It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting.
DOOR MICROSWITCHES
There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system.
Two are separate switches:
a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted.
b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function.
When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM.
The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly:
c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed.
d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position.
e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position.
f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position.
g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position.
TYPICAL FAULTS
All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms:
1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed.
2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up.
3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn.
4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote.
5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason.
6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession.
7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it.
FIXES
The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers:
Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides)
Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right)
The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member):
I didnt put this photo in as you already saw it on another posting..... It shows a broken switch unassembled in parts.
You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number is unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one.
OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM
The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures:
Front lid microswitch
Rear lid microswitch
Oddment compartment microswitch
Glove box microswitch
Radio contact (to detect radio theft)
An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep.
Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the the battery).
The following 2 users liked this post by rombo60:
BoxerS (06-30-2021),
tegraphile (06-12-2021)
12-15-2014, 07:35 PM
#11
That is a great write up!
09-16-2015, 10:47 PM
#13
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l-removal.html
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/32134-door-latch/
02-06-2017, 10:05 PM
#14
Bump for easy read this weekend
11-05-2019, 08:48 PM
#15
1st Gear
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
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Just to add another option. The owner's manual for my 2014 Cayman, page 56, says: The end positions of the windows are lost when the battery is disconnected and reconnected. One-touch operation is disabled. Perform these steps for all windows: 1. Close window completely ONCE by pulling the rocker switch. 2. When the window is completely closed, briefly pull the rocker switch again THREE TIMES. 3. Open the window completely ONCE by pressing the rocker switch.
Maybe this calibration process will work for some people.
Maybe this calibration process will work for some people.