yellow_tornado

This problem just started about a week ago and I have no idea what the problem is. I thought I'd post to the forum before taking it into the shop. Here's the problem.

1. Open passenger door.
2. Window does not go down the 1/4" or so that its supposed to so when you close the door the window is outside of the weatherstripping.
3. If I roll down the window then it makes a bit of noise (its from the window coming off the weatherstripping) but otherwise functions properly and closes fine.
4. I would say that the mechanism that makes the window go down (upon opening the door) is broken but I'm not sure if that's the case. I say this since when I hold the door handle then the window goes down. Its when I release the door handle that the window goes back up. Its as if the mechanism is working in reverse.

Any ideas on what could be causing this? Is it the first sign of the mechanism failing?

Thanks in advance for your insights.

Cheers-

John

pongobaz

Read this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-switches.html

Dennis C

Sounds like a window regulator to me...

996pp

It's the microswitch in your inside door handle. You can test that by just slightly pulling the door handle and if the window doesnt drop you have to change the complete handle. Unfortunatly you can't just buy the switch by itslef. And if the window comes back up after opening the door then its the microswitch in the door latch.

Dennis C

The fact that it goes back up when the handle is released makes it sound like a microswitch. However, the other symptoms sound more like a window regulator. Both maybe??

LordVicious

Try pushing the window down with your hand. If it pops back up properly when you close the door then it's the window regulator. For what it's worth I've been doing this on mine for over 2 years and the window works fine.

yellow_tornado

All-

Thanks for your replies. To clarify, if you keep the handle up (open) then the window will drop the appropriate amount. However; when you release the handle, then it goes back up to the full height. Also, I cannot manually push down on the window as it won't push down.

So here is where I am today. I read the micro switch plunger replacement thread as suggested. After reading the thread, I followed the instructions (including ordering the plunger piece) and replaced the micro switch plunger. I was able to successfully replace the plunger but it still is behaving the same way as before. So, does this mean that I have to replace the entire micro switch mechanism? If so, any ideas on if there is any place that sells the whole unit?

If its not the micro switch then any suggestions? It doesn't sound like its the window regulator since LordVicious' suggestion is what I have to do on the drivers side - and my local p-shop told me that the regulator is bad on the drivers side.

Thanks again.

yellow_tornado

Is this the micro switch? I found this on Pelican Parts and it has a diagram but I can't even tell where this piece is located on the door - does it connect to the door handle?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...1-05%29%20%20#

Thanks again.

Hurdigurdiman

I copy pasted this for you. Hope it helps.


It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting.

DOOR MICROSWITCHES

There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system.

Two are separate switches:
a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted.
b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function.

When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM.

The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly:
c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed.
d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position.
e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position.
f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position.
g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position.

TYPICAL FAULTS

All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms:

1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed.
2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up.
3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn.
4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote.
5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason.
6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession.
7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it.

FIXES

The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers:

Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides)
Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right)

The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member):

I didnt put this photo in as you already saw it on another posting..... It shows a broken switch unassembled in parts.



You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number is unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one.

OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM

The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures:

Front lid microswitch
Rear lid microswitch
Oddment compartment microswitch
Glove box microswitch
Radio contact (to detect radio theft)

An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep.

Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the the battery).

pongobaz

Dealer sells the whole assembly. But before you spend the money, make sure the latch mechanism is mounted high enough in the door so that the striker bar from the jamb pushes the cam down when the door is pulled open. After I did the plunger surgery it was still malfunctioning until I realized the latch mechanism was out of alignment. Took two minutes to loosen the triple square bolts and move the assembly up a bit.

James88

My car has started to do this today as well.

My drivers side window will not stay that fraction lowered to allow the door to close to seal the window, it does go down when you lift the handles inside and out but does not stay lowered when door is open.

I did adjust the latch mechanism mount higher but didnt fix the issue.

My indie said the door latch assy is faulty and needs replacing. He said he's done quite a few of these.

James88

Just realized how old this thread is....

Macster

May be an old thread but the problem is a new one to you.

When you pull the handle the window should drop. If you release the handle without unlatching the door the window should go up again. The door latch switch controls this.

If you pull the handle enough the door latch opens and the door pops out a bit the window should stay down.

However, I can't recall if this was a problem with the door latch switch or the door handle switch. I have had both replaced in one door, both regulators replaced and the door lock assembly replaced in one door. (They all wore out.)

Your tech has diagnosed the door latch assembly. If you trust him enough to work on your car then listen to him. He's the pro.

James88

Thanks Macster

I always enjoy reading your posts and experiences.
Its going to my indie for replacement.

Cheers
James

johnireland

My driver's door did this just as the dealer was returning the car to me after a service. While the service rep went off to order the new microswitch I played with the key in the lock and turning the ignition key on and off and starting and stopping the engine and putting the windows up and down. And the system cured itself. Seems the brains of the car have little strokes now and then and they have to reteach themselves.

In the meantime the back up temp solution is to open the door, get in the car, roll the window down with the window switch, close the door, then put the door back up. If it is the right door it is much easier.

To make the car water tight until you get it fixed, leave the window down when you get out of the car, go to the passanger side and put the window up, then lock the car.