How do you clean brake dust?
#1
Track Day
Thread Starter
How do you clean brake dust?
I enjoy washing and waxing my C2S, but struggle big time trying to clean the brake dust from the inside of the wheel rims. Would appreciate any suggestions...
#2
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The key is to stay ahead of it. Keep the wheels clean as much as possible, covering them with wax after cleaning. It will help to reduce the accumulation of dust. Of course, you have to remove the wheels periodically to do it correctly. (And then, there is the method to avoid this entirely).
Last edited by Edgy01; 06-30-2010 at 02:52 PM.
#3
Depends on the wheel model. I have Carrera Classics and there's just enough room for me to reach inside the gaps with a wet microfiber cloth to clean the inside area of the wheels. With more than 5 spokes, though, the task proves to be much more difficult. I'm sure others will chime in.
#5
Three Wheelin'
Helps to have "easy wheels".
Other than that:
- keep them waxed
- swiffer to get the major dust off in between washings and a little detail spray will usually get them looking good again
- washing, you need something to reach in. I like the Griots wheel cleaner and a they make a nice long, flat, with no metal brush:
The Swiffer is great though - especially if you can keep the dust off before it gets wet and gets messy. I get a clean one, do the dash and other areas inside, then use it up on the wheels.
That said, messing with the wheels is always time consuming.
Other than that:
- keep them waxed
- swiffer to get the major dust off in between washings and a little detail spray will usually get them looking good again
- washing, you need something to reach in. I like the Griots wheel cleaner and a they make a nice long, flat, with no metal brush:
The Swiffer is great though - especially if you can keep the dust off before it gets wet and gets messy. I get a clean one, do the dash and other areas inside, then use it up on the wheels.
That said, messing with the wheels is always time consuming.
#7
On my Targa if I really get after the wheels it takes Me almost 2 hours to clean them properly Kills my Bad back. I really have a hard time getting around the next day. I was going to order them on a Std Turbo but then the S came out so The S made more sense.
But if you are like me I wash my car at least 30 times a Year. I plan on keeping for a long time. I will save money vs Chiropractor bills That I would have if not PCCB
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#8
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Funny you say that--was a BIG factor me as well. (I know what people will say). I have a very bad back--titanium cages and rods from T10 to L2 and just getting too old to be cleaning wheels! PCCB is a god-send.
#9
Three Wheelin'
OUCH!!!
#11
Burning Brakes
Porsche Carbon Ceramic Brakes
I think the response was somewhat tongue in cheek because it's about $12,000 option when you buy the car and $14,000+ to upgrade to after. The rotors are a carbon ceramic composite. They're very light and very resistant to wear. They are also about $2000 each.
I think the response was somewhat tongue in cheek because it's about $12,000 option when you buy the car and $14,000+ to upgrade to after. The rotors are a carbon ceramic composite. They're very light and very resistant to wear. They are also about $2000 each.
#12
Banned
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Rejex wax (last step).
Warm soapy water.
The soft brushes from Groit's.
Blow dry with leaf blower.
Since using the Rejex wax, I have never purchased a wheel cleaner in the past 4 years. Just soap and water. Washing the wheels takes about as long as washing the whole car. 1 hour for the wheels and 1 hour to wash the car and wipe out all of the door/hood/trunk jambs.
Warm soapy water.
The soft brushes from Groit's.
Blow dry with leaf blower.
Since using the Rejex wax, I have never purchased a wheel cleaner in the past 4 years. Just soap and water. Washing the wheels takes about as long as washing the whole car. 1 hour for the wheels and 1 hour to wash the car and wipe out all of the door/hood/trunk jambs.
#13
I have a bit of an issue - I have some brake dust buildup that I can't seem to get rid of. Just a few spots (~1mm in diameter) around the edge of the rim, tried some P21s gel, clay bar, and polish, but all with no luck. Any suggestions on products? I have some Rejex I'm going to apply once I get rid of the last bit of dirt.
#14
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
In the USA the PCCB brakes ran about $8000+ and are composed of siliconized carbon fiber rotors and 6-pot front and 4-pot rear calipers. The wear rate of the pads is incredibly low. I used about .6mm of 10.6 mm of pad material in 38,000 miles of driving. If you wear nothing, there is nothing to contribute to dust. The rotors are extremely hard.
When Porsche and everyone else stopped using asbestus in pads they went with higher metallic content. That higher metal content will chew up the rotors much faster. I ran 911s in the past and NEVER replaced a rotor up through 100,000 miles. It's the aggressive pad material that is presenting you with bigger brake repair bills. The PCCBs help to extend the period between maintenance. From what I have personally seen, that period is extensive. However, since so many of you really rich guys flip cars after 18 months it would never be cost effective for you to order a car with it. You would never see the benefit.
When Porsche and everyone else stopped using asbestus in pads they went with higher metallic content. That higher metal content will chew up the rotors much faster. I ran 911s in the past and NEVER replaced a rotor up through 100,000 miles. It's the aggressive pad material that is presenting you with bigger brake repair bills. The PCCBs help to extend the period between maintenance. From what I have personally seen, that period is extensive. However, since so many of you really rich guys flip cars after 18 months it would never be cost effective for you to order a car with it. You would never see the benefit.
#15
Burning Brakes
This is maybe just a bit more detail on the advice above and it is our routine:
Each fall we remove the summer wheels/tires and put on the winter set. At that time the summer wheels are thoroughly washed front and back. We use normal car wash soap (Meguires I think) and a terry washcloth and no other brushes or gizmos. But we also choose our wheels to be easy to clean (lesson learned back in the day of BBS Basket Weave wheels on a BMW). Dry with a cotton towel (microfiber if you must, but it is just wheels). Then apply non-wax protectant like Klasse (our choice), Rejex, etc. Wax has too low a melting point and will quickly depart your wheels. With Klasse we use the All-in-One first as it has a good cleaner and will remove most anything left behind during the wash (if there is a persistent stain before the Klasse use some brake clean, but get it off quickly or risk damaging the clear coat). Then the Klasse sealant. Then put the summer wheels away (clean) for winter.
In spring when we put the summer wheels/tires back on, they will not need to be re-washed or protected. This treatment usually lasts all season (prox 6 months) of daily-driver and some track use.
While on the car, wash the wheels using their own wash water (to prevent any contamination or scratching of the car's paint). I use warm water and the same car wash soap and terry washcloth. I can easily reach around my winter 5-spokes and summer lobster forks so don't need to remove them to get the back/inside. After each wheel is washed and rinsed, I thoroughly rinse the washcloth so it hits the next wheel clean. This is even better if the rear wheels are washed first (they're cleaner to start). To clean the wash cloth the best way I've found is to lay it flat on the driveway, hold the near edge and spray it with the hose - then turn it over and repeat. A white washcloth makes its state of cleanliness very obvious.
And I don't even consider myself **** about cleaning my wheels or car!
Each fall we remove the summer wheels/tires and put on the winter set. At that time the summer wheels are thoroughly washed front and back. We use normal car wash soap (Meguires I think) and a terry washcloth and no other brushes or gizmos. But we also choose our wheels to be easy to clean (lesson learned back in the day of BBS Basket Weave wheels on a BMW). Dry with a cotton towel (microfiber if you must, but it is just wheels). Then apply non-wax protectant like Klasse (our choice), Rejex, etc. Wax has too low a melting point and will quickly depart your wheels. With Klasse we use the All-in-One first as it has a good cleaner and will remove most anything left behind during the wash (if there is a persistent stain before the Klasse use some brake clean, but get it off quickly or risk damaging the clear coat). Then the Klasse sealant. Then put the summer wheels away (clean) for winter.
In spring when we put the summer wheels/tires back on, they will not need to be re-washed or protected. This treatment usually lasts all season (prox 6 months) of daily-driver and some track use.
While on the car, wash the wheels using their own wash water (to prevent any contamination or scratching of the car's paint). I use warm water and the same car wash soap and terry washcloth. I can easily reach around my winter 5-spokes and summer lobster forks so don't need to remove them to get the back/inside. After each wheel is washed and rinsed, I thoroughly rinse the washcloth so it hits the next wheel clean. This is even better if the rear wheels are washed first (they're cleaner to start). To clean the wash cloth the best way I've found is to lay it flat on the driveway, hold the near edge and spray it with the hose - then turn it over and repeat. A white washcloth makes its state of cleanliness very obvious.
And I don't even consider myself **** about cleaning my wheels or car!