Preventing Fine Micro Scratches and Keeping Your New Car Looking New
#76
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Originally Posted by Racer48
A Question for OCBen and friends:
My almost-new basalt black 997 has acquired some fine clear coat scratches on the hood where a cat apparently decided to climb aboard for a nap. Kitty claws and a black Porsche are a bad mix! These scratches are quite visible if the lighting is correct, but they can not be felt by hand and I do not believe that they penetrate the clear coat. FYI, I have been using Klasse AIO and Klasse Sealant, and the car is otherwise immaculate.
What type of polish (and process) do you folks recommend for removing the scratches? I am assuming that I should remove the wax/sealant, polish the affected areas with some type of very fine polish, then reapply wax/sealant. Would 3M Hand Glaze be appropriate for this specific situation?
Thanks!
My almost-new basalt black 997 has acquired some fine clear coat scratches on the hood where a cat apparently decided to climb aboard for a nap. Kitty claws and a black Porsche are a bad mix! These scratches are quite visible if the lighting is correct, but they can not be felt by hand and I do not believe that they penetrate the clear coat. FYI, I have been using Klasse AIO and Klasse Sealant, and the car is otherwise immaculate.
What type of polish (and process) do you folks recommend for removing the scratches? I am assuming that I should remove the wax/sealant, polish the affected areas with some type of very fine polish, then reapply wax/sealant. Would 3M Hand Glaze be appropriate for this specific situation?
Thanks!
Finish with a high quality wax (Souveran, P21S,Poorboys etc) or sealent (Klasse, Wolfgang, Jeff Werkstat, Zaino) etc.
Always keep some QD in the car with you and a microfiber towel to clean between washes. I use Poorboys Spray & Wipe for light cleaning.
Deanski
Last edited by Deanski; 01-23-2006 at 09:45 AM.
#77
Question for OCBen or anyone thats has an answer:
So when i wash the P-car I always wash the wheels first. By the time I am done with the whole car the rotors turn an "orangish" color. When I drive away after a wash all this "orange/brown" crap flings all over the inside of the wheel and sometimes onto the body of the car.
What the hell is this stuff and how do I minimize/stop it from happening?
Thanks for you help as it really pisses me off!!
So when i wash the P-car I always wash the wheels first. By the time I am done with the whole car the rotors turn an "orangish" color. When I drive away after a wash all this "orange/brown" crap flings all over the inside of the wheel and sometimes onto the body of the car.
What the hell is this stuff and how do I minimize/stop it from happening?
Thanks for you help as it really pisses me off!!
#80
You can probably get similar results by hand or with an orb buffer (PC or the like that take foam pads) BUT the labor difference is substntial. IMHO the machine does a better job with alot less work.
I have tried alot of products but settled on the Menzerna line as my favorite. Polish first to remove, fill the swirls and then top off with the glaze and then the FMJ or any high quality wax. I used to use P12S wax over the polishes but the FMJ actually looks better and lasts a long time.
If you go to properautocare.com under Menzerna FMJ you can actually see my MINI after using FMJ.
I have tried alot of products but settled on the Menzerna line as my favorite. Polish first to remove, fill the swirls and then top off with the glaze and then the FMJ or any high quality wax. I used to use P12S wax over the polishes but the FMJ actually looks better and lasts a long time.
If you go to properautocare.com under Menzerna FMJ you can actually see my MINI after using FMJ.
#81
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Dro
Question for OCBen or anyone thats has an answer:
So when i wash the P-car I always wash the wheels first. By the time I am done with the whole car the rotors turn an "orangish" color. When I drive away after a wash all this "orange/brown" crap flings all over the inside of the wheel and sometimes onto the body of the car.
What the hell is this stuff and how do I minimize/stop it from happening?
Thanks for you help as it really pisses me off!!
So when i wash the P-car I always wash the wheels first. By the time I am done with the whole car the rotors turn an "orangish" color. When I drive away after a wash all this "orange/brown" crap flings all over the inside of the wheel and sometimes onto the body of the car.
What the hell is this stuff and how do I minimize/stop it from happening?
Thanks for you help as it really pisses me off!!
See Post # 64.
#84
Keep them coming Ben. For those of us with "lower IQs", the reminders are always welcome. Let the high IQ guys get the scratches.
I've followed your suggestions, and my P-car looks incredible.
I've followed your suggestions, and my P-car looks incredible.
#87
Invariably you will get some of this rust "gunk" on your wheels. One solution, if you've just washed and done the best you can to wipe or blow dry the area and you're going to park the car for a while (like overnight), is to just put a rag of some sort inside the bottom of each wheel to catch those stray drops that happen. Just remember to remove them before you drive the car
I find that Vanilla Moose is a nice, easy to apply product to protect the wheels and it has a very mild cleaning action.
HTH
I find that Vanilla Moose is a nice, easy to apply product to protect the wheels and it has a very mild cleaning action.
HTH
#88
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Wheels, due to the heat generated by braking, most waxes or glazes do not stand a chance.
Sealants have a higher heat fail rate level than any wax. For wheel protection, use any high quality sealant and you'll find that brake dust will wash right off.
Washing, the newer way to wash for those limited to water etc, you'll find that "ONR" works very well. This is a no rinse product. Always use a high quality sheepskin mitt and wash in one direction only. For normal washing, several mitts, one for panels and others for wheels along with buckets and rinse water buckets as well.
Drying, I find that as long as the area is wet, the use of a hand-held leaf blower works very well as long as a filter is used, then follow-up with a waffel-weave MF towel. The leaf blower gets in tight areas to force water out. Very critical when washing and prep for a concourse event.
Do NOT use air compressors as all produce oil in th air, that's unless you have the same amount of dryers and conditioners used in body shop paint booths to prevent this.
As for MF towels, each has it's use and type of fiber or plush level. Use high/dense plush ones for QD work. Shorter fiber for wax or sealant removal.
Some sealants have a higher threshold to micro-marring as opposed to waxes. Waxes will mostly fill micro-marring as well as most glazes as that's what a glaze is really used in filling micro-marring and leave the finish perfect for wax.
As for polishing, always go with a paint cleanser first after you clay the finish. Some clays are very fine and some are very aggressive. Use an ultra-fine clay and lube, then evaluate if polishing is needed. Use a random orbital polisher such as a Porter-Cable 7424, which has many backing plates and pads to choose from. DO NOT USE A ROTARY unless you have experience. Although quicker, they can damage paint in a very short time.
Best practice is to always seek out professional help from a qualified detailer. They can assist you in keeping the finishing looking new.
Regards,
Deanski
Sealants have a higher heat fail rate level than any wax. For wheel protection, use any high quality sealant and you'll find that brake dust will wash right off.
Washing, the newer way to wash for those limited to water etc, you'll find that "ONR" works very well. This is a no rinse product. Always use a high quality sheepskin mitt and wash in one direction only. For normal washing, several mitts, one for panels and others for wheels along with buckets and rinse water buckets as well.
Drying, I find that as long as the area is wet, the use of a hand-held leaf blower works very well as long as a filter is used, then follow-up with a waffel-weave MF towel. The leaf blower gets in tight areas to force water out. Very critical when washing and prep for a concourse event.
Do NOT use air compressors as all produce oil in th air, that's unless you have the same amount of dryers and conditioners used in body shop paint booths to prevent this.
As for MF towels, each has it's use and type of fiber or plush level. Use high/dense plush ones for QD work. Shorter fiber for wax or sealant removal.
Some sealants have a higher threshold to micro-marring as opposed to waxes. Waxes will mostly fill micro-marring as well as most glazes as that's what a glaze is really used in filling micro-marring and leave the finish perfect for wax.
As for polishing, always go with a paint cleanser first after you clay the finish. Some clays are very fine and some are very aggressive. Use an ultra-fine clay and lube, then evaluate if polishing is needed. Use a random orbital polisher such as a Porter-Cable 7424, which has many backing plates and pads to choose from. DO NOT USE A ROTARY unless you have experience. Although quicker, they can damage paint in a very short time.
Best practice is to always seek out professional help from a qualified detailer. They can assist you in keeping the finishing looking new.
Regards,
Deanski
#89
Deanski and Ben great thread on car care. Deanski, I bought a leaf blower and was wondering what type of filter you use and whether you put it on the intake or at the exhaust end of the blower. Thx.
#90
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Originally Posted by erv
Deanski and Ben great thread on car care. Deanski, I bought a leaf blower and was wondering what type of filter you use and whether you put it on the intake or at the exhaust end of the blower. Thx.
As long as the area is really wet and you don't point it down to the pavement, you're good. It's great to get water out of tight areas.
Regards,
Deanski