Preventing Fine Micro Scratches and Keeping Your New Car Looking New
01-07-2007, 09:03 PM
#93
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Originally Posted by OCBen
Thanks for helping out, Deanski. 
Here's a great starting point: Guide to Detailing
Regards,
Deanski
01-07-2007, 09:34 PM
#94
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Originally Posted by Deanski
Wheels, due to the heat generated by braking, most waxes or glazes do not stand a chance.....
Best practice is to always seek out professional help from a qualified detailer. They can assist you in keeping the finishing looking new.
Regards,
Deanski
Best practice is to always seek out professional help from a qualified detailer. They can assist you in keeping the finishing looking new.
Regards,
Deanski
01-08-2007, 11:12 AM
#96
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Originally Posted by Deanski
Here's a great starting point: Guide to Detailing
Also, there's a complete detailing book you can download for FREE from Autopia (just checked, it's still available) that I found very helpful:
http://www.guidetodetailing.com/arti...p?articleId=58
01-08-2007, 11:38 AM
#97
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Autopia Detail Guide
Originally Posted by OCBen
I've referenced that already in my detailing thread, but it's good to repeat for those who may have missed it.
Also, there's a complete detailing book you can download for FREE from Autopia (just checked, it's still available) that I found very helpful:
http://www.guidetodetailing.com/arti...p?articleId=58
Also, there's a complete detailing book you can download for FREE from Autopia (just checked, it's still available) that I found very helpful:
http://www.guidetodetailing.com/arti...p?articleId=58
For those still new to detailing, look at other cars in the area for high quality detailers that handle these cars as well as other high-end vehicles. Don't rely on those wash/wax tunnel auto washes that offer "deatiling" as you will be very unhappy with the results!
Once a good shop gets the paint perfect, seek advice or a hands on session. I do this for customers in the past as well as a small package that has wash, wash mitts, QD, MF towels and instructions. Those that have a "PC" we can do the session with a customer. They also get polishes and sealant or wax and MF bonnets or finish pads as well. Everyone learns how to hand wash correctly. Drying also contributes to marring if done wrong as well.
Most maring can be filled by a good glaze. Glazes contain "China clay" or other clays that add to the filling. Polishing with mild polish and pads remove defects, but can also haze a finish if done improperly and a finish polish will need to bring it back.
Thanks Ben for all the links!!
Regards,
Deanski
03-24-2008, 10:22 AM
#98
Banned
Thread Starter
Spring Car Washing
Just a reminder for those who haven't washed their cars in a while because of bad weather, to go easy on your paint if your car is really dirty.
- Always soften up the dirt film by hosing down the car thoroughly before you begin. And spray down the panel you're about to wash one more time before you start in with your wash mitt.
- Never scrub your paint finish with your wash mitt. Your paint is too soft and will pick up fine micro scratches as a result. Always let the soapy wash mitt glide gently over the surface.
- If you see little specks of contaminants resist the temptation to pick at it with your thumbnail. You'll produce a scratch for sure. If it's small enough you might try rubbing it gently with your fingertip and soapy water to loosen it, otherwise leave it for your claying step.
- But whatever you do, don't use your mitt as a scrub pad. Any applied pressure on your paint with the mitt is guaranteed to produce fine micro scratches.
As I've pointed out in this thread, a new car ceases to look new as a result of improper washing techniques. If you look at the sun's reflection on your paint and see a halo of fine scratches around it that follows the sun's reflection as you move around your car, that is what happens from not using proper car washing techniques.
It's a lot of work - especially on a darker car - to keep it looking new, but for those of us who love that look, it's well worth it.
- Always soften up the dirt film by hosing down the car thoroughly before you begin. And spray down the panel you're about to wash one more time before you start in with your wash mitt.
- Never scrub your paint finish with your wash mitt. Your paint is too soft and will pick up fine micro scratches as a result. Always let the soapy wash mitt glide gently over the surface.
- If you see little specks of contaminants resist the temptation to pick at it with your thumbnail. You'll produce a scratch for sure. If it's small enough you might try rubbing it gently with your fingertip and soapy water to loosen it, otherwise leave it for your claying step.
- But whatever you do, don't use your mitt as a scrub pad. Any applied pressure on your paint with the mitt is guaranteed to produce fine micro scratches.
As I've pointed out in this thread, a new car ceases to look new as a result of improper washing techniques. If you look at the sun's reflection on your paint and see a halo of fine scratches around it that follows the sun's reflection as you move around your car, that is what happens from not using proper car washing techniques.
It's a lot of work - especially on a darker car - to keep it looking new, but for those of us who love that look, it's well worth it.
03-24-2008, 07:50 PM
#99
Three Wheelin'
Just a reminder for those who haven't washed their cars in a while because of bad weather, to go easy on your paint if your car is really dirty.
- Always soften up the dirt film by hosing down the car thoroughly before you begin. And spray down the panel you're about to wash one more time before you start in with your wash mitt.
- Never scrub your paint finish with your wash mitt. Your paint is too soft and will pick up fine micro scratches as a result. Always let the soapy wash mitt glide gently over the surface.
- If you see little specks of contaminants resist the temptation to pick at it with your thumbnail. You'll produce a scratch for sure. If it's small enough you might try rubbing it gently with your fingertip and soapy water to loosen it, otherwise leave it for your claying step.
- But whatever you do, don't use your mitt as a scrub pad. Any applied pressure on your paint with the mitt is guaranteed to produce fine micro scratches.
As I've pointed out in this thread, a new car ceases to look new as a result of improper washing techniques. If you look at the sun's reflection on your paint and see a halo of fine scratches around it that follows the sun's reflection as you move around your car, that is what happens from not using proper car washing techniques.
It's a lot of work - especially on a darker car - to keep it looking new, but for those of us who love that look, it's well worth it.
- Always soften up the dirt film by hosing down the car thoroughly before you begin. And spray down the panel you're about to wash one more time before you start in with your wash mitt.
- Never scrub your paint finish with your wash mitt. Your paint is too soft and will pick up fine micro scratches as a result. Always let the soapy wash mitt glide gently over the surface.
- If you see little specks of contaminants resist the temptation to pick at it with your thumbnail. You'll produce a scratch for sure. If it's small enough you might try rubbing it gently with your fingertip and soapy water to loosen it, otherwise leave it for your claying step.
- But whatever you do, don't use your mitt as a scrub pad. Any applied pressure on your paint with the mitt is guaranteed to produce fine micro scratches.
As I've pointed out in this thread, a new car ceases to look new as a result of improper washing techniques. If you look at the sun's reflection on your paint and see a halo of fine scratches around it that follows the sun's reflection as you move around your car, that is what happens from not using proper car washing techniques.
It's a lot of work - especially on a darker car - to keep it looking new, but for those of us who love that look, it's well worth it.
03-24-2008, 07:57 PM
#100
Banned
Thread Starter
See OP under Soap Applicators to learn why.
03-24-2008, 09:01 PM
#101
Three Wheelin'
Point taken. I think the case for grout sponges was made due to the ease of rinsing all grit particles off the sponge. Lambs wool and the like may not allow for easily rinsing away grit that you can't see or feel. I currently use a microfiber wash mit but will give the sponge a shot based on the converts over at Autopia. My black car should be a good test.
03-24-2008, 09:32 PM
#102
Banned
Thread Starter
Point taken. I think the case for grout sponges was made due to the ease of rinsing all grit particles off the sponge. Lambs wool and the like may not allow for easily rinsing away grit that you can't see or feel. I currently use a microfiber wash mit but will give the sponge a shot based on the converts over at Autopia. My black car should be a good test.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...0&postcount=23
03-24-2008, 10:38 PM
#103
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For ONR washing, the sponge does work very well with no marring due to what most of you have figured out in that rinsing the sponge is very easy to do and very easy to see any grit as opposed to a sopping wet sheepskin which traps dirt well, but rinsing takes more effort.
Mostly, the ONR will foat off the dirt rather than you scrubbing it off, you mostly wipe in one direction with the sponge and rinse. Dirt is gone. Here's a good example on black using ONR.
Light washing, with two buckets I use a sheepskin with lots of rinse water changes even with "grit guard" as most of the fine particles float around the water. Better still is to stream water both outside and inside the mitt.
The key is the soap you use. The more it can lift and remove the dirt, the less friction from a mitt or a sponge. Find the best and most slippery, dirt lifting soap as possible.
Another item I use are both a foam gun and a foam "bazooka" which when used with a high pressure washer and air, can give you the same if not more soap and foam like a drive-through wash. Same principle as a commercial car wash, only made for mobil car wash systems that you may also see washing fleet vehicles.
Bottom line, sometimes you have to try different applications to find your best method as what may work for me or others may not work for you as well.
Regards,
Deanski
Mostly, the ONR will foat off the dirt rather than you scrubbing it off, you mostly wipe in one direction with the sponge and rinse. Dirt is gone. Here's a good example on black using ONR.
Light washing, with two buckets I use a sheepskin with lots of rinse water changes even with "grit guard" as most of the fine particles float around the water. Better still is to stream water both outside and inside the mitt.
The key is the soap you use. The more it can lift and remove the dirt, the less friction from a mitt or a sponge. Find the best and most slippery, dirt lifting soap as possible.
Another item I use are both a foam gun and a foam "bazooka" which when used with a high pressure washer and air, can give you the same if not more soap and foam like a drive-through wash. Same principle as a commercial car wash, only made for mobil car wash systems that you may also see washing fleet vehicles.
Bottom line, sometimes you have to try different applications to find your best method as what may work for me or others may not work for you as well.
Regards,
Deanski
03-28-2008, 10:02 AM
#105
Banned
Thread Starter
Joe, sorry I didn't get to this in time for your bedtime story.
But long story short, I used sandpaper on my black Boxster to remove the dreaded orange peel and produce a smooth as glass, mirror-like finish in a process called color-sanding. My neighbors and my g/f at the time thought I had really lost it when they saw my brand new Boxster's paint finish a dull, charcoal grey color from the sandpaper. Mind you, I had never done this before, but I had studied and observed pros at body shops do this. And I was confident I could do it as well.
My story, along with several pics of the process, was published in my local PCA's monthly magazine. Here's one of the photos, a pic of my wife's reflection off the rear lid.
But long story short, I used sandpaper on my black Boxster to remove the dreaded orange peel and produce a smooth as glass, mirror-like finish in a process called color-sanding. My neighbors and my g/f at the time thought I had really lost it when they saw my brand new Boxster's paint finish a dull, charcoal grey color from the sandpaper. Mind you, I had never done this before, but I had studied and observed pros at body shops do this. And I was confident I could do it as well.
My story, along with several pics of the process, was published in my local PCA's monthly magazine. Here's one of the photos, a pic of my wife's reflection off the rear lid.