Aloha all.

Had my 06 2cS cab for a few months now. Maybe a month ago, had an issue wherein the car was sputtering? stuttering? on acceleration. It was as though it had full power for 0.5 s and then 0% for another 0.5 s. Pretty uncomfortable experience. At the time, the gas light was on but it had just come on so I was surprised at the idea that it could be from that. I filled it up promptly and the issue went away.

I've put another 500 uneventful miles on it until today when it happened again. This time, tank was full. The issue resolved on its own after maybe 2 miles of normal driving and I've put another happy 30 on it since.

Any ideas as to the culprit? Does feel a bit like fuel delivery to me some I'm guessing maybe fuel line? Fuel pump? Maybe it's tuned for a higher octane gas than I have access to? Only up to 92 here and I run all Shell. Purchased the car from a dealer so no real history but it does have some tasteful mods such as numeric shifter and PCCM+.

Will chat with my local shop soon but figured I'd get some ideas beforehand.

Thanks!
Jeff

 

Try pulling any OBDII codes with Durametric, PIWIS, or generic (O'Reilly's, etc.).

 

Are gauges and electrics going out also or just the engine power? If the gauges are going out and the battery is in good shape, it could be the alternator. any auto parts store can test both for free usually. If its the engine power, have you tried running a fuel injector cleaner though it?

 

Good idea. Will try this soon. No CEL so I didn't think of it initially.

No electronic involvement. Gauges all normal, radio working, lights working. Have not done a fuel injector cleaner but seems like a cheap and reasonable thought!

 

Maybe coil packs are on their way out.

 

You want a high PEA content juice. I use Red Line SI-1.

 

2009 C2S 206K miles

As others here have said, get the codes read at any autoparts store, they do it for free. The number one reason for misfires is coil packs failing... common.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

 

It's your brake light switch. Replace that and it will be resolved. When the brake light switch activates, it cuts the drive by wire throttle to prevent a runaway car that can be overridden by the brakes. This will usually happen when leaving a stop where you've had the brake pedal engaged or after braking while driving. Had to replace them in both my 997s for this exact issue. the correct switch has a 996 part number.

 

Yea, my 2000 Boxster S's switches failed... don't remember if it was the brake or clutch switch. The dealer hooked up his computer and the switch showed up as a fault when the pedal was applied. I pulled the switches apart and the flat copper metal, the brush, literally had a hole worn through it. The symptom I had was pullaway from a dead stop... I was stalling the engine if I was soft. I was down on myself for poor skills. The shop foreman ... conjecture here... thought that the anti skid stuff was kicking in getting confusing signals... but was overcome by pressing the gas hard and quickly. Again, just conjecture.

The question in my mind (amongst the many voices) is when did Porsche spec a more robust switch? I have 206K miles on mine and nothing wrong with them. I thought about swapping them out as they are cheap and easy to do, but am curious as to how long they will last.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

 

To my knowledge, the switch has never been updated, although the last 2 digits of the current part available might show otherwise if it's a bigger number than an 01.

 

Yea, the part in my car is a 02 sequence and the part now is a 03. They must have upgraded the spec on the part with 02... I can't believe the 01 part would have lasted as long as it has in my car.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

 

Well this is something that would have never been on my radar at all. Gotta love an enthusiast forum. Is this a DIY job or a shop job? Happen to have a part number on hand?

Thank you!

 

It's 10 minutes start to finish providing you can flip yourself over and put your shoulders on the floor to see the brake pedal and plug. 90 degree twist to remove the old one, disconnect the plug, plug in the new one, insert and twist 90 degrees