Bore scoring found - now what?
Yesterday, 10:27 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
All of that said, the fascination/obsession with scoring has ruined the resale values of .1 cars forever. In less educated communities like reddit people essentially put the scarlet letter on all .1 cars, with everyone basically convinced that scoring is inevitable. Which it emphatically isn’t.
True Enthusiasts will not worry about resale value, just driving pleasure vs $$
The value of 996's took a nose dive early on with the owners complaining of a few oil drops on the garage floor from RMS leaking...even on the GT3 ....
The GT3 has the RMS turned around backwards due to high crankcase vacuum design, and if not driven for a while would leak a bit of oil on the floor....So the complaining caused many RMS seals to be replaced ..and if replace three times a new engine was installed.......Porsche finally declaired the GT3 slight leak was "normal" if not driven regularly ( not that many GT3 owners anyway ), and the Carrera M96 got about 6 different redesign before creating a very flexable seal to control the missalignment and stop the leaks..
The owners complaining of having to have new engines installed ( even though they were in warranty at no cost) this caused the trade-in values to drop on all 996's even the Turbo was being traded in at about $39K one-owners with under 50k miles.......This was even before the IMS issue or AOS failures, or Bore scoring..
Knowledge is a wonderful thing used correctly , even if only a few posses it .....
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SlakkerRacingDev (Today)
Yesterday, 10:29 PM
#32
Burning Brakes
Yeah, those pictures were taken with a potato. Do a search and you'll find what they should look like. And even with better quality photos it can be hard to tell what's scoring and what's just normal wear.
I wouldn't bother redoing it, no. Scoping can make sense when you buy a car to ensure you're not getting a problem child. Once you own a car just monitor for symptoms: oil consumption, smoke, that sort of thing.
Like, the only fix for scoring is a rebuild, so what good does it do you to "monitor" it with scoping? Just maintain the car and drive it. Either it'll be fine or eventually it won't, and at that point you'll have to do something about it. I mean, no guarantees, but if there were no other symptoms then you probably just ended up scaring yourself with this test to no good end.
I wouldn't bother redoing it, no. Scoping can make sense when you buy a car to ensure you're not getting a problem child. Once you own a car just monitor for symptoms: oil consumption, smoke, that sort of thing.
Like, the only fix for scoring is a rebuild, so what good does it do you to "monitor" it with scoping? Just maintain the car and drive it. Either it'll be fine or eventually it won't, and at that point you'll have to do something about it. I mean, no guarantees, but if there were no other symptoms then you probably just ended up scaring yourself with this test to no good end.
Yesterday, 11:47 PM
#33
My cousin is driving a 996 with confirmed bore scoring by Autohaus in Atlanta , in 4 of the cylinders for nearly 10000 miles with no white smoke, oil consumption or piston noise. I wouldn't let this get to you. I think as others have noted, when it reaches a point of when and if the car starts smoking or has bad oil consumption and piston slap, then worry about the replacing engine.
Today, 01:04 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
@997Fanatic997 I’ll see about posting a few more pics from your tear down.
As for the pics above, assuming that they were taken of the thrust faces, then I don’t see anything that would indicate bore scoring. Mainly I’m looking along the reflection of the light and not seeing any signs of depth other than a lone scratch or two.
As for the pics above, assuming that they were taken of the thrust faces, then I don’t see anything that would indicate bore scoring. Mainly I’m looking along the reflection of the light and not seeing any signs of depth other than a lone scratch or two.
Today, 04:29 AM
#35
C'mon guys. This site already scared him enough into spending money on the World's Worst Borescope Inspection. Unless he really needs to know *immediately* if it's scored, what good is an oil analysis going to do? Game it out:
Option 1: it comes back bad. Well, the engine is scored. Nothing he can do to fix it, just drive it and monitor for symptoms
Option 2: It comes back good. Just drive it and monitor for symptoms
People act like changing motor oil brands or something is going to fix bore scoring or make a significant difference in wear at this point. The car's got 130K, whatever was done has worked so far. Just drive it, use an approved oil, change it on a reasonable basis, and monitor consumption. It starts burning a lot of oil or smoking worry about it then.
Option 1: it comes back bad. Well, the engine is scored. Nothing he can do to fix it, just drive it and monitor for symptoms
Option 2: It comes back good. Just drive it and monitor for symptoms
People act like changing motor oil brands or something is going to fix bore scoring or make a significant difference in wear at this point. The car's got 130K, whatever was done has worked so far. Just drive it, use an approved oil, change it on a reasonable basis, and monitor consumption. It starts burning a lot of oil or smoking worry about it then.
The OP is already down the rabbit hole and IMO a UOA is relatively inexpensive way to an objective measurement and / or peace of mind.
I hear that the oil level sensors go bad. What is considered soot and how much of it is bad?
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alaris (Today)
Today, 08:32 AM
#36
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Pictures aren't super clear so tough to really descent how bad the scoring is, but it doesn't look terrible. Use Driven FR50 for higher film strength than either DI40 or DT40 as it will better keep the metal parts separated and minimize the progression.
Might need to change spark plugs more frequently as any oil getting by will foul them sooner, so maybe every 15-20k miles instead of every 30k.
Might need to change spark plugs more frequently as any oil getting by will foul them sooner, so maybe every 15-20k miles instead of every 30k.