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Old 08-29-2024, 09:11 PM
  #46  
Ironman88
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Originally Posted by stiles_s
Are you still using Ceratec?

The look of this oil drain honestly spooked me. New oil in, and the LM is actually a bit different looking than the 0w40 M1 I've used for decades. M1 pours like "bud light". The LM 5w40 is definitely a thicker and darker pour straight out of the bottle. But the stuff that came out after 2 years and about 1500 miles (LM and Ceratec) looked like Guinness with some milk in it. Nightmare fuel.
Yes. I'm a fan of it.

The engine in my Cayenne ('19 model base), is an Audi-sourced 3L single turbo V6. It's a 45-degree V6 with an odd imbalance that's inherent in the design.

The Ceratec is no cure, but it does help smooth it out - there's absolutely an improvement in it. Also a slight improvement in fuel mileage.

It's not "snake oil"...

Old 08-29-2024, 09:15 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by TRINITONY
How many miles on the oil?
Mine looked similar to the picture shown here. Maybe a little darker.
Old 08-29-2024, 10:35 PM
  #48  
Bruce In Philly
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Originally Posted by Ironman88
The key active ingredient in Ceratec is Hexagonal Boron Nitride - or "white graphite." That is what I believe gives it a white milky-like color.

Here's a photo of drained oil (with Ceratec in it) that was on another forum related to Ceratec and the topic of how it affects the look of spent oil...

I have been doing oil changes for ever with Cera Tec... mine never looked like that. I am actually amazed at what I am seeing here. Again, I put in one bottle per change.

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Old 08-29-2024, 10:44 PM
  #49  
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Here is an interesting description of Hexagonal Boron Nitride from a supplier (maker?):

https://www.ceramic-solutions.com/Introduction/107.html

From the link a above: "If the added amount is more than 2.5%, it can achieve high anti-wear, environmental protection and energy-saving characteristics, and even enable the internal combustion engine to run without oil, that is, to drain the engine oil, only rely on the oil film on the internal parts of the engine to resist. The compressive strength still maintains the engine and keeps it running for longer periods of time."

Wow.

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Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 08-29-2024 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 08-30-2024, 02:24 AM
  #50  
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I'll stick with my Motul + Ceratec. Runs quiet and drains very clean since I've been using this. Bruce let us know if you try that new stuff.
Old 08-30-2024, 07:43 AM
  #51  
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Bruce,

thanks for your post. Two quick questions: do you ever do the LiquiMoly Engine Flushes ; what does your oil look like when you drain it from your engine (no pictures needed).
Old 08-30-2024, 09:44 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Wchargis2
Bruce,

thanks for your post. Two quick questions: do you ever do the LiquiMoly Engine Flushes ; what does your oil look like when you drain it from your engine (no pictures needed).
I have no intent on trying anything new on my car as I am happy with LM 5W and Cera Tec. As is my always disclaimer, I have no science as to why I like this combo other than I do... it entertains me. My "logic" is that Cera Tec contains Moly and their ceramic (supposedly Hexagonal Boron Nitride)... moly is good and ceramic is a two-punch of goodness. Better? Better than what? I dunno.

I have used LM engine flush on Her Lexus IS250 at 100K miles and my sister's Nissan Xterra (she wasn't doing enough oil changes). Why did I do it? What did I learn? Am I happy doing it? Can you guess my answer? .... here it comes... wait for it.... I DUNNO. Why did I do it? Entertainment!!! Any comment or action I did using any of this stuff that deviates from a maker's specifications is pretty worthless. I did quite a bit of Googling about this flush stuff and didn't learn anything that was negative... same with Cera Tec... Pretty much everything out there is speculative. In short, I didn't think I would hurt anything. Oh, I do put Cera Tec in Her Lexus and now my sister's Xterra (I guess I am now maintaining her car now that I am in Atlanta).

My 5K-changed oil looks like spent oil... never looked like chocolate. I put one bottle in per oil change, this is a bit less than Cera Tec denotes to add.

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Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 08-30-2024 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 08-30-2024, 10:43 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly
I have no intent on trying anything new on my car as I am happy with LM 5W and Cera Tec. As is my always disclaimer, I have no science as to why I like this combo other than I do... it entertains me. My "logic" is that Cera Tec contains Moly and their ceramic (supposedly Hexagonal Boron Nitride)... moly is good and ceramic is a two-punch of goodness. Better? Better than what? I dunno.

I have used LM engine flush on Her Lexus IS250 at 100K miles and my sister's Nissan Xterra (she wasn't doing enough oil changes). Why did I do it? What did I learn? Am I happy doing it? Can you guess my answer? .... here it comes... wait for it.... I DUNNO. Why did I do it? Entertainment!!! Any comment or action I did using any of this stuff that deviates from a maker's specifications is pretty worthless. I did quite a bit of Googling about this flush stuff and didn't learn anything that was negative... same with Cera Tec... Pretty much everything out there is speculative. In short, I didn't think I would hurt anything. Oh, I do put Cera Tec in Her Lexus and now my sister's Xterra (I guess I am now maintaining her car now that I am in Atlanta).

My 5K-changed oil looks like spent oil... never looked like chocolate. I put one bottle in per oil change, this is a bit less than Cera Tec denotes to add.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
One bottle of Ceratec treats up to 5 liters of oil.

I think the 997 holds 8 liters. So probably 1.5 bottles of Ceratec would equal their recommendation.
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Old 08-30-2024, 03:11 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Wchargis2
Bruce,

thanks for your post. Two quick questions: do you ever do the LiquiMoly Engine Flushes ; what does your oil look like when you drain it from your engine (no pictures needed).
Interesting point about Flushes. And, I'm guessing that the look of the drain oil from this oil change was affected by it being the first time for the LM 5w40 changing from the Ow40 M1. I think the first time you switch is always going to knock some **** loose.
Old 08-30-2024, 04:15 PM
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I’m interested if anyone has done a flush with LiquiMoly Engine flush.
Old Yesterday, 01:02 PM
  #56  
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I personally think any kind of flushing is dangerous unless it’s on a fresh rebuild
flush chemicals are too strong
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Old Yesterday, 01:45 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Wchargis2
Originally Posted by alaris
Mobil 1 loses viscosity at 100°C, and isn’t particularly developed exactly for this engine the way Driven is.



see if Driven will provide this data for LiquiMoly.
Is the difference in weight material to the data collected?

So what i gather is that Mobil 1 is still a great oil, but DI40 may have improved on it.
Old Yesterday, 01:57 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by EVOMMM
I personally think any kind of flushing is dangerous unless it’s on a fresh rebuild
flush chemicals are too strong
Yea, maybe. But I could not find anything on the 'net that denoted so. I suspect the flush really breaks down oil so you only run it on the oil you are about to drain and you run for like 10 minutes only. When the oil comes out, it definitely looks different so the flush chemically reacted to whatever you had in there. When you refill, some of that flush is still in the engine albeit a tiny amount and probably already reacted/bonded to leftover oil. Honestly I have no idea what I am talking about, but again, I could not find anything wrong with flushing and both cars I used it in are running fine.

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Old Yesterday, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly
Yea, maybe. But I could not find anything on the 'net that denoted so. I suspect the flush really breaks down oil so you only run it on the oil you are about to drain and you run for like 10 minutes only. When the oil comes out, it definitely looks different so the flush chemically reacted to whatever you had in there. When you refill, some of that flush is still in the engine albeit a tiny amount and probably already reacted/bonded to leftover oil. Honestly I have no idea what I am talking about, but again, I could not find anything wrong with flushing and both cars I used it in are running fine.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Refer to post #12 in the thread below concerning engine flushing...

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-don-t-do.html

Raby's comment is specific to the M96 engine. I don't know if the same would apply to the M97 or not...

Old Yesterday, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironman88
Refer to post #12 in the thread below concerning engine flushing...

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-don-t-do.html

Raby's comment is specific to the M96 engine. I don't know if the same would apply to the M97 or not...
Interesting... He noted "We see this continually". I may be picking his words too carefully, but this implies many people are doing it... something I am quite surprised to hear since Porsche owners are so... well you know how we are. Regardless, the implication is the flush chemicals are definitely doing their job of removing stuff. I really thought I was wasting time and money doing it since modern, quality oils, really don't sludge up like the old stuff. Synthetics and detergent additives keep engines clean anymore so I really didn't think I needed to do it. Again, I did it for entertainment purposes, not because I thought the Lexus and Nissan needed it.

Anyone pull the heads on a modern engine using quality oil and to-spec oil change intervals and actually see sludge and deposits? I never hear of that anymore... like the old days. I did it because I thought it may clear deposits on the rings.

ALERT: Porsche dealerships offers engine flushes:
https://www.porschechantilly.com/blo...-engine-flush/
https://www.porschestevenscreek.com/...-your-porsche/
https://www.porschefremont.com/porsche-fluid-flush/
https://main-line.porschedealer.com/...sh-service.htm

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

Last edited by Bruce In Philly; Yesterday at 03:33 PM.


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