Petza914

Mobil 1 loses it's viscosity in as few as 3k miles and the UOA reports aren't in the same category as the better oils. It's mediocre at best and I'd love to know how much money they pay Porsche to put that sticker on their engines. Wouldn't surprise me if it's millions if not $1B.

M3Cavalry

DI40 is 0w40? That’s ok for the 9A1 motor?

Petza914

It's not really. It's been on the borderline of a 0w and 5w since it's release. In fact, the early bottle artwork showed it labelled as a 5w40, then they changed it to a 0w40 and now they're changing it back to a 5w40. The formulation hasn't changed, just how the cold viscosity index has it labelled.

It's perfect for a 997.2

Wchargis2

I am really appreciating all this info. I sent an email to both companies and asked why their oil is better than the other’s. I will post their comments when I get them.

Petza914

B453D

Porsche prolly enjoys a deep discount on the annual bulk-oil purchase.

Wchargis2

As promised. Here is what LiquiMoly engineer sent:


the problem of bore scoring in certain Porsche engines is well known. Our recommendation to reduce or even completely avoid bore scoring is to use only motor oils approved by Porsche (in your case, the Porsche A40 oil specification is required) and to add Cera Tec to the fresh oil every time you change the oil. Cera Tec has been proven in this regard for years and will also protect your engine as best as possible from excessive wear.



According to information on the manufacturer's website, the DI40 oil you mentioned "will not meet any current API or OEM Engine Oil Specifications and is specifically designed for GDI engines". We therefore recommend against using such a product in your naturally aspirated engine.



For your 2009 911 our Synthoil Energy A40 SAE 0W-40 is the preferred oil, this top-class Porsche specialty has the necessary A40 factory approval and is ideally suited for best protection and performance of your engine.



At your next oil change use Pro-Line Engine Flushthen keep using every 2nd - 3rd oil change (may be used every oil change) to make sure deposits are removed from inside the engine. Deposits are abrasive and will contribute to additional wear as well as preventing proper oil flow throughout the engine. It will also remove deposits that form at the piston ring area that may contribute to decreased performance and increased oil consumption by preventing proper ring function due to binding in their groves. Overall, a great way to increase engine life and to optimize oil consumption.



Add Cera Tec to fresh motor oil to further increase wear protection and reduce friction. Cera Tec is a high-tech additive formulation that contains two active ingredients for less friction and wear. It has been proven worldwide and protects your engine even under tough operating conditions. For optimal protection, ideally use Cera Tec with every oil change.



Please review the links below for product information and application instructions:



Synthoil Energy A40 SAE 0W-40 | LIQUI MOLY (liqui-moly.com)

Pro-Line Engine Flush | LIQUI MOLY (liqui-moly.com)

Cera Tec | LIQUI MOLY (liqui-moly.com)



Use Jectron as fuel treatment for your Porsche, too.

Petza914

A40 approved oils don't have enough zinc or Phosphorous because there is risk of those damaging the catalytic converters and auto manufacturers have to guarantee their emissions systems for 10 years. Cats are expensive because of the platinum and other precious metals inside of them. Oil is about minimizing metal wear - that's it. There is one oil that does that better than any other and it's not A40 approved which is one reason it works so well.

GDI stands for Gasoline Direct Injection which is what DI40 is rated for, even according to the LM response - what do you think the 997.2 engine is - DFI is GDI and has nothing to do with turbo charged vs normally aspirated.

Wchargis2

Here is the response from Driven:

I don’t have a direct comparison to that oil with the addition of that additive. We are of the mindset here that if it needs an additive with the oil, it’s the wrong oil. I do like some of their formulas, but I hate using an additive on top of oil that should contain it anyways. (if needed) What will happen in most cases, most of the additional additive can “fall out” and settle in the pan and not help at all.

Bruce In Philly

Coupla things about Liqui Moly inquiries. . I as well as others here have sent them various inquiries about this and that and never had a response from an engineer. Far from it. Responses have come from two people and one time, I received a response from both with contradicting information. Not that LM is a bad lying company, but I strongly suspect we are getting responses from customer service reps in the marketing and sales departments (just my assumption). I have sent inquiries to various oil companies and have always received crap responses... it is the nature of these beasts.

Another oddity is recommending a 0W oil for bore scoring (to address it or prevent it)... engine builders recommend thicker oils in general. LM makes an A40 5W that I use... odd they didn't recommend this but chose their latest formulation.

They note that Cera Tec is good for bore scoring... this is the first I heard of this although I am not surprised given what research I've done on the ceramic component of their product.... no I have no idea if it really works for bore scoring, but hey, I gave it a shot and it appears to be a reasonable claim. They note Cera Tec has two ingredients for friction reduction, these are as I understand it, their ceramic compound and MoS2 (aka Moly).

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

Ironman88

The responses you're getting likely are coming from the marketing department (maybe not the case with the Driven response.)

Marketing people are not just drinking their own Kool Aid, they're swimming in it 24 / 7.

stiles_s

I've been wallowing in all of the oil threads here trying to make a decision. I watched a PCA video from Mr Speed? and he said "if you want a C grade and just 'want the degree'" then simply use an A40 oil with regular changes. Mine's been M1 OW40 since new with the exception of the last change about 2k miles ago at the most reputable local shop we have around here. I went and looked at their notes from my service and they used LiquiMoly Leichtlauf 5w40 and Ceratec. Without me asking them. I like the idea of folks like Driven innovating and building a strong product but frankly I'm reluctant to use an oil without A40 cert. So...

I added additional Ceratec about 6mos ago before I realized that the shop had already added it. And of course now I'm stressing about having too much additive in there.

It's been 2 years and about 2k miles since the change. Total of 23k on the car. I think I'm going to go for fresh LM Leichtlauf in 5w40 without any additives to stabilize things a bit. TIL that both the owners manual for our 911 and Macan says OW40 for all temps and 5w40 for temps above -13deg F. So 5W40 it is. I always thought the OW40 came out of the cars looking like weak beer.

Tom R.

At 1,000 miles a year we will all be long gone before that motor has internal issues no matter what oil you use.

PCA and FCP have good videos besides the Lake Speed videos. I watched a few hours of videos. More than enough to cover my continuing education credits in amateur oil mixology. Conclusion - I am more confused than when I started. Points I remember: If there is oil consumption like in the .1 cars and Cayennes add Ceratec. Zinc is for metal, molybdenum is is for aluminum. Now you are an expert in amateur oil mixology.

alaris

They now recommend DI40 for .1s as well. After talking to LN Engineering I am switching from DT40 to DI40 for my next .1 oil change.

alaris

Mobil 1 loses viscosity at 100°C, and isn’t particularly developed exactly for this engine the way Driven is.