Wayne Smith

Also ... Check for debris in front of, and in between, your radiators.

anewman

Hootsama, in my case (2011 C2S 997.2 33K miles), the Oil temps were running normally between 205-225 even during our hot summer here in Las Vegas. Water temp gauge is a dummy gauge that only sits at 175 to show "everything's ok". Last week I was in stop and go traffic on the freeway where the ambient temp was 110 degrees, all the sudden the dashboard water gauge shot directly to 250 with the red light on, and a warning message on the dash to "check coolant level" or something like that. I pulled over and realized that the old/original expansion tank relief valve had failed, resulting in a loss of nearly a gallon of coolant that escaped down the drain tube and was blown back and even through the open exhaust tips which caused a panic (luckily no air got into the motor or system, so the motor was fine and the oil temperature only peeked at 250 - lower than most guys on the track under normal use). When I pulled over, I remained idling to keep coolant circulating and had the cabin heat on to help the engine cooling. I got out and noticed that the radiator fans were not on, so I turned the AC back on (which will tell the system to turn on the radiator fans), but the fans stayed off. Once the oil temp cooled to 200, I shut it down, and let it cool further. Later upon restart, the radiator fans (front, not the one over the engine cover) came back on but only at low speed, and allowed me to get home. I then replaced the expansion tank since that needed to be replaced due to a failed relieve valve) . Then monitored for a week of normal driving. During that week I noticed that the fans were not always running, or not always running at what I thought should have been high enough speeds. I broke out the iCarSoft PorII and noticed a "Status of radiator fan control = Not OK" message in the diagnostics menu under the section for front end electrical, and monitored actual engine coolant temps between 180-210 despite the 175 reading on the dash gauge. I continued to monitor for a few days and decided to replace the radiator fan control module (997-618-436-04) which is in front of the passenger front tire, behind the lower wheel well cover, between the radiator fan and the frunk wall. After that, both front fans are running normally with varied fan speeds as expected under various conditions, and the diagnostic message now reads "Status of Radiator Fan Control = OK", and true diagnostic water/engine temps between 180-210, and the dash water guage happily sitting at 175 as normal. Fixed.

Sylverlee

which cats are those? I tried doing this the other day but couldn’t fit my AWE 200 cell in with my PSE. Thinking maybe I need to loosen my muffler a bit. I gave up for the day and put everything back in.

Hootsama

Interesting. And I appreciate the detail, thank you. Glad you've got it sorted and things are running as normal.

Nate2046

They are DesignTek, which I believe are the same as the TopGear stuff sold out of the UK. I don’t have PSE but fitting them up was quite easy. It was trickier getting the OEMs out, if anything, due to their bulk in that small space.

https://www.design911shop.com/p/exha...s-porsche-997/

Hootsama

I'll be curious to hear your thoughts re: loudness and tone with that setup as upgrading the cats is a 'someday' project to compliment my PSE.

Sylverlee

did you have to remove the bumper or adjust the mufflers at all?

Sylverlee

im curious as well. pse sounds good from the outside but its too quiet from the inside

BRN9121

Sorry for the late response, the difference is night and day... literally.

Knein97

I previously had these, they are easy to install with no rear bumper removal required.

Knein97

I haven’t done PSE and crossover high flow cats. However this has been my experience with other setups. My PSE combined with 200 cell Xpipe and Top Gear headers sounded incredible…but xpipes cause drivability issues with 02 sensor faults and low RPM hesitation .So I tried switching to the 200 cell crossover style pipes, combined with my headers and PSE, and it sounded HORRIBLE. Now with just PSE and headers it sounds pretty good, but a little drone at low RPM so not great from inside the car.

Sylverlee

interesting. Which headers did you use? I heard it doesn’t do as much as the 200cell cats

Nate2046

As ​​​@Knein97 said, no need to remove the bumper and I didn’t adjust the mufflers either. The OEM cats had to come out together as they’re so much bulkier than the 200 cells. I was able to get those into place individually with the muffler side loosely into the clamp and the header side resting on the flange. Then loosely did up the nuts and bolts on header side and then the clamps on muffler side. One of the smoother installs I’ve done, not sure where you got hung up, but I don’t have PSE either, so maybe that’s the difference?