Battery Dead and Frunk Not Accessible
#1
Battery Dead and Frunk Not Accessible
Hello all, I just took delivery of a gorgeous Cobalt Blue 997 Cab. Upon delivery the battery was extremely low but not dead. Once off the truck the battery was completely dead. The key is currently stuck in the ignition, and I am unable to get power to the frunk latch through the fuse panel. Any suggestions? This is my first 997. Thank you.
#2
Check the owner's manual, it will show you how to hook up a 12v battery to your fuse box to open the front trunk. I've had to use this method myself - it works!
I've used a small 12v batter in the past - it was for my riding lawn mower - so you don't have to grab a car sized batter.
Good luck!
I've used a small 12v batter in the past - it was for my riding lawn mower - so you don't have to grab a car sized batter.
Good luck!
#3
Check the owner's manual, it will show you how to hook up a 12v battery to your fuse box to open the front trunk. I've had to use this method myself - it works!
I've used a small 12v batter in the past - it was for my riding lawn mower - so you don't have to grab a car sized batter.
Good luck!
I've used a small 12v batter in the past - it was for my riding lawn mower - so you don't have to grab a car sized batter.
Good luck!
#6
FYI, you have to use the trunk button on the key to open the frunk if you're using the fuse panel energizer post.
It won't work if you use the pull lever on the side sill.
It won't work if you use the pull lever on the side sill.
#7
Rennlist Member
1) So sorry to hear this happened. Kind of a buzz kill on arrival day.
2) Lots of chatter lately about locked frunks, release cables, etc. Has me thinking I need to craft a "Wayne Special" for mine...
3) Pictures of your new ride, please. (Once you get her unlocked and operational, of course.)
Welcome to the club and congrats on your new purchase. It will become significantly more fun when you get this worked out.
2) Lots of chatter lately about locked frunks, release cables, etc. Has me thinking I need to craft a "Wayne Special" for mine...
3) Pictures of your new ride, please. (Once you get her unlocked and operational, of course.)
Welcome to the club and congrats on your new purchase. It will become significantly more fun when you get this worked out.
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#8
Congratulations on your new ride. Your problem will appear as a minor setback once you're past this.
While it is possible to remove the left front tire front half of the fender liner to access the emergency release cable, it's a lot easier to do this with the wheel off. Seasoned owners have learned to keep the lug key in the glove box. This cable requires major force to release the frunk. IMHO it was a poor decision forced by a need for high security.
For an easier method, open the fuse panel. There is a long stiff wire attached to the door. Push this into the hole next to the key to remove the key.
Then pull the red tab on the fuse panel out. This will disconnect all electronics other than the front computer. Attach a 12 Volt battery plus side to the tab. Attach the negative side of the battery to a good ground like the brake pedal shaft. With only the front computer connected you will need to use the key fob to open the frunk. Note ... With the car battery disconnected a jump start or a battery tender will not work. I've heard a transistor radio battery will work but I've never tried this.
Then, sometime in the future, grab a bicycle brake cable with sheath to route an extra release cable to behind the right front fender side light. There are write ups here but since those write ups were done people have created videos that I feel are better at explaining the method.
These cars have parasitic drain. When left parked for days it's best to attach a good battery tender. Lots on that elsewhere as well.
Good luck.
While it is possible to remove the left front tire front half of the fender liner to access the emergency release cable, it's a lot easier to do this with the wheel off. Seasoned owners have learned to keep the lug key in the glove box. This cable requires major force to release the frunk. IMHO it was a poor decision forced by a need for high security.
For an easier method, open the fuse panel. There is a long stiff wire attached to the door. Push this into the hole next to the key to remove the key.
Then pull the red tab on the fuse panel out. This will disconnect all electronics other than the front computer. Attach a 12 Volt battery plus side to the tab. Attach the negative side of the battery to a good ground like the brake pedal shaft. With only the front computer connected you will need to use the key fob to open the frunk. Note ... With the car battery disconnected a jump start or a battery tender will not work. I've heard a transistor radio battery will work but I've never tried this.
Then, sometime in the future, grab a bicycle brake cable with sheath to route an extra release cable to behind the right front fender side light. There are write ups here but since those write ups were done people have created videos that I feel are better at explaining the method.
These cars have parasitic drain. When left parked for days it's best to attach a good battery tender. Lots on that elsewhere as well.
Good luck.
#10
The outlet in the passenger's footwell has a larger fuse and is more appropriate for charging, although many use the center one without problems. Battery tenders are current limited so either fuse is protected, but if you attached something with more current capacity ...
#12
Rennlist Member
The majority of battery chargers being sold will not start a charge cycle until it "tests" the battery and it is above that charger's threshold to start charging, greater than 8-11 volts (decent refence https://www.chargingchargers.com/tut...cognition.html). Most chargers will let you know with its status lights what it is and is not doing.
Should you have a battery that has discharged below your chargers threshold, simply perform a "Force Charge" with a healthy 12v battery using jumper cables. Battery posts positive to positive, negative to negative for about 30-60 minutes. Remove the jumper cables, attach the charger and let it finish topping off the battery. If you have one, test the battery after the charging is complete.
Yes to all of the following. and I am sure there are more:
- letting your battery get that low on a charge is not good for the battery. Who knows how much longer it will last
- if there is an internal failure in the battery, this will not work.
- battery terminals to terminals connections only. DO NOT TRY THIS THROUGH THE cockpit.
- If you are not near a shop or at home and the battery has drained by something left on, this can work if some kind soul is willing to hook up jumper cables, force charge, get you started and let the alternator take over, BUT put the battery on a charger when you get to the shop or to home.
Should you have a battery that has discharged below your chargers threshold, simply perform a "Force Charge" with a healthy 12v battery using jumper cables. Battery posts positive to positive, negative to negative for about 30-60 minutes. Remove the jumper cables, attach the charger and let it finish topping off the battery. If you have one, test the battery after the charging is complete.
Yes to all of the following. and I am sure there are more:
- letting your battery get that low on a charge is not good for the battery. Who knows how much longer it will last
- if there is an internal failure in the battery, this will not work.
- battery terminals to terminals connections only. DO NOT TRY THIS THROUGH THE cockpit.
- If you are not near a shop or at home and the battery has drained by something left on, this can work if some kind soul is willing to hook up jumper cables, force charge, get you started and let the alternator take over, BUT put the battery on a charger when you get to the shop or to home.
Last edited by CAVU; 05-15-2024 at 10:34 AM.
#13
I was taught that batteries can exude vapors and when you jump you should connect the positive cable first and then connect the ground to the frame well away from the battery so any sparking that occurs while making that connection will not result in unintended flashing.
On Pam's AMG, Mercedes went one step further by placing the battery in its own covered box and supplying jump lugs for both positive and negative cables that are well clear of that box.
I still keep my 55 year old battery trickle charger to boost batteries that are too discharged for my tenders to work on.
One warning on connecting a high or unlimited power source to your battery. Arcs can and most likely will occur. These arcs can cause very high voltage spikes and you may risk electronic failures. It's always best to find a way to slow charge a battery and avoid arcing. Battery tenders do just this by sensing the battery has a secure connection before supplying current.
On Pam's AMG, Mercedes went one step further by placing the battery in its own covered box and supplying jump lugs for both positive and negative cables that are well clear of that box.
I still keep my 55 year old battery trickle charger to boost batteries that are too discharged for my tenders to work on.
One warning on connecting a high or unlimited power source to your battery. Arcs can and most likely will occur. These arcs can cause very high voltage spikes and you may risk electronic failures. It's always best to find a way to slow charge a battery and avoid arcing. Battery tenders do just this by sensing the battery has a secure connection before supplying current.
#14
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I've never come across a 997 where the fuse pull out didn't work once the process was done correctly.
Forget the jump pack, you need a spare car battery or your other car that has battery connections. You need normal jumper cables, not the fancy current sensing and polarity switch ones.
Remove the fuse panel cover and slide out the contactor pin. Hook the red clip from the jumper cables to it. Hook the other 2 clips to the spare battery or the vehicle with the battery you're using, then hook the other ground clip to the catch the door uses when it closes. Leave them connected for 1 minutes before doing anything else.
Now take the key and hold down the trunk pop button - don't just press it - hold it down. It might take 30 seconds of constant holding before the frunk pops.
Forget the jump pack, you need a spare car battery or your other car that has battery connections. You need normal jumper cables, not the fancy current sensing and polarity switch ones.
Remove the fuse panel cover and slide out the contactor pin. Hook the red clip from the jumper cables to it. Hook the other 2 clips to the spare battery or the vehicle with the battery you're using, then hook the other ground clip to the catch the door uses when it closes. Leave them connected for 1 minutes before doing anything else.
Now take the key and hold down the trunk pop button - don't just press it - hold it down. It might take 30 seconds of constant holding before the frunk pops.