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Manually remove the key using the release procedure. Emergency frunk process did not work for me with the key in the ignition nor will the spare key work if one is in the lock - i found you have to use the same key that was in the ignition. A battery booster in bypass mode can act as a power supply.
[QUOTE=Wayne Smith;19357661] "With the car battery disconnected a jump start or a battery tender will not work."/QUOTE]
Haven't others said that a jump start or battery tender won't work even if the "dead" battery is connected." That was my experience a month ago. My Jump Start appeared to do nothing, and my battery was connected. Interested to learn more here. thx
I've never come across a 997 where the fuse pull out didn't work once the process was done correctly.
Forget the jump pack, you need a spare car battery or your other car that has battery connections. You need normal jumper cables, not the fancy current sensing and polarity switch ones.
Remove the fuse panel cover and slide out the contactor pin. Hook the red clip from the jumper cables to it. Hook the other 2 clips to the spare battery or the vehicle with the battery you're using, then hook the other ground clip to the catch the door uses when it closes. Leave them connected for 1 minutes before doing anything else.
Now take the key and hold down the trunk pop button - don't just press it - hold it down. It might take 30 seconds of constant holding before the frunk pops.
This is interesting. Why is it that a jump pack won't work? Shouldn't it send current approximating what the battery delivers? When it comes to auto electrics, I'm always baffled.
Regarding "Jump Start" batteries, I have no idea if they have protective circuitry in them, but IMHO opinion the weak links to a successful emergency frunk opening:
- are using a 12v source without enough amperage and/or with protective circuitry,
- picking a wrong ground point or not making good contact with an unpainted conductor,
- not making good contact with the conductors on the positive terminal in the fuse box, and
- not using the key fob. see post 34 from the link provided
Someday I will put a amp meter on the connection and test how much amperage is needed by the front control module to emergency powerup and then to open the frunk with the key fob.
Tenders and jump start units need to see enough voltage from the main battery before they will activate. This is to avoid sparking during the connection. If there is no battery or a battery is too discharged then it will not register and you will not get voltage.
Pulling out the fuse disconnects everything but the front computer, which controls the frunk latch. So you only need enough power to operate this computer. BTW, this is why you need to use the key fob rather than the switch by the driver's seat.
I've read that a transistor radio battery will even work, but I've never tried.
In the meantime I've got two things ...
1. An extra release cable routed via bicycle brake sheath to behind the right side light on the fender.
2. A battery monitor that disconnects the battery if it drops below 12 volts. I mounted a remote reconnect switch on the bottom of the windshield ... If I've got no power I open the door, reach around the A pillar, touch the switch, and I'm ready to go.
I've posted this before - and I strongly believe this is the easiest solution. Buy one of these and just use it to pop the frunk - connecting it to another car and then to your 997 accessory plug.
Then you can jump the battery like a normal car
I've posted this before - and I strongly believe this is the easiest solution. Buy one of these and just use it to pop the frunk - connecting it to another car and then to your 997 accessory plug.
Then you can jump the battery like a normal car
Just curious here. I'm not understanding this method ...
So your battery has dropped to 5 volts. So you can't open the frunk. You hook this up to a car that is at 12.6 volts. If you did this with jumper cables you would get a heavy spark when connecting (the reason to connect + first and then connect - to somewhere that isn't near the fumes near the battery). And then you would get some very heavy currents. If done via the lighter stickers wouldn't this pop the fuse for the 997 lighter socket, or the other car's fuse? It seems like something has to give someplace or you'd burn up the wiring.
I can see this being kind of safe if the voltages are close between the cars, but then you wouldn't have a problem.
I'm missing something here. If I recall correctly the 977 fuse is 15 amps. It seems the currents would exceed this. Yes, 14 AWG is specified for 20 amps, which match the fuses in each plug. But the batteries aren't current limited. Think about the wire gauge on battery cables.
Last edited by Wayne Smith; 05-16-2024 at 12:00 AM.
All I know is that it did work for me. But maybe you're right and there might be a fuse issue. I may have changed a fuse in the process. I have a pile of them. I had this issue last summer and I forget the details, but I know if worked. As much as my car is a daily driver, I do have a Suburban and a motorcycle that I can use to get around in a pinch. When my battery died, I messed around with the other methods for a bit - like the fuse box thing, and got frustrated. So - I ordered this thing from Amazon, it came in a day or two, and then I got my frunk open without much drama. I do a fair bit of work on my cars, so I don't even flinch about a fuse change.
As an FYI the absolute easiest solution to opening the Frunk or Jump Starting your Porsche if the battery is dead and frunk won't open is our Clampless Harness wiring harness. Link is here>>> https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...arness-msa10c/
Our Harness works with our Antigravity MICRO-START Jump Starters but it does work with some other brands that have the same tip for their clamps.
So what this it is, is a wire harness you connect directly to your Battery Post clamps, then run it to the hood/windsheild junction like in the image below. Then if you ever get a dead battery you simply plug your jump starter into this harness which takes two seconds and either pop the frunk of jump start your Car. The reason this works so well is because you get your system completely energized, and you are not going through the thin gauage wires with the red buss barr fuse panel method, nor worried about getting a good ground. We tested for this many years ago and it takes about 5 to 7 amps to get a good functioning of the switch mechanism on the Porsches, if you don't have that you will not get the frunk to open, as well you have to have a good voltage of about 12.5.
In any event you just tuck away the wire harness at the leading edge of the hood, then if you ever have a dead battery you simply plug your jump starter into it and have immediate access to the frunk. Please note our MICRO-START jump starters have a BYPASS feature that bypasses the built-in protections so you can energize the Cars battery even if its at zero volts, so that is a feature that allows it to work even when otheres won't .
Also Note we make a Bluetooth device called the Battery Tracker that sends your battery data to your phone and will warn you if your battery is getting low, but it does a ton more stuff than that, and can help you not have situations like this. A link to that is here>>> https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...tooth-tracker/
03-29-2024, 07:32 PM
