Sporty

Why don't you just get a Honda and work on that- why be a poser in a Porsche? Its like going on a date with a hot "'girl" then at the end of the night you look under the hood, and, well lets just say it not what you expected....

We might have another Jarodomen (whatever his name was ) here?

VGC

absolutely they are! Honda engines last a very long time with minimal care!

r_towle

lol, agree!

digs

If you stay focused you will be ready for Halloween to debut the Frankenstein car!

festina-lente

Well, well, well. It's that time of year again. Here for your consideration:


After seeing all of this, I'm now properly motivated to swap the OHC, 187cc in my Honda riding lawnmower to a 2.0 flat-six. Who knows, maybe I'll get inspired enough to throw a turbo kit at it too. Because, why not?

VGC

nothing wrong with having a great chassis mated to a great engine now! I know what I’m doing.

Sporty

Your license plate should read "Ricer" ...when done

Jack667

Time out.

Long time Rennlister - longer than anyone who's posted since the "real engine" comment, at least. Let's please cut the OP some slack on that comment.
The poor guy had his engine blow up one month after purchase. Any one of us who has - or may in future - experience a total engine failure should be granted some slack.
Let's offer some grace on that comment and any future dings on reliability coming from OP and anyone else who experiences a catastrophic failure.
Just MHO, and go ahead and carry on as you wish

G0ingnowherefast

This is quite possibly the worst take I've seen this year. The OP blew up his inherently flawed, extremely expensive engine and he's replacing it with an engine setup that will reduce weight by 200-300lbs (with turbo setup included), get better cruising mileage, have better emissions, make potentially double the power, and has a longstanding reputation of being an extremely reliable engine even under motorsport conditions...

Why don't you have a GT3RS? Why be a poser in a cheap Porsche? <- That is the same garbage circular logic you're using.

K20 & K24's are quite possibly the most prolific engine setup in grassroots level motorsports in the world alongside the LS engines. They are extremely reliable, make great power, and hold up well to heavy track-use.

I think it's been done, but realistically putting in a heavier EJ series engine which are NOTORIOUSLY unreliable doesn't make too much sense. I'd wager most people that have went through a catastrophic engine failure like the OP is probably looking to improve reliability, not reduce it. Another benefit is that the K series weighs around ~125 lbs less than a fully dressed EJ25. Our kits (even factoring in the turbo setup) reduces weight over the M97 full setup by close to 200-300lbs. This is obviously a huge advantage in competitive motorsports and just in general.

G0ingnowherefast

Just to chime in here, OP, I'm sorry to hear about your engine failure. I did the electronics package (mainly the CAN reverse engineering) for Nick so I'm fully up to speed and very knowledgeable on the kit. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out to me directly.

Also, I'm not sure if Nick has sent you the basemap + on-boarding email yet, but keep in mind the software on Links site (https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/) is a few versions behind what's in beta for dealers. Nick will be able to send you a more up-to-date version of the firmware, and it's being constantly updated. I'm working on more features such as map switching via the function stalks and some other cools things so stay tuned.

For anyone that's interested in the project: https://tuning-by-nick.myshopify.com/

Bruce In Philly

2009 C2S 196K miles

What is the end result weight difference between a K24 and the original engine?

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

G0ingnowherefast

We haven't done much work on the 09+ cars equipped with the 9A1 series of engines (because, well, they don't really blow up lol). But a fully dressed K24Z7 is around ~285 lbs, where as the M97 (3.8L) generally come in at around ~430-450 lbs fully dressed.

The kit changes the valve cover, intake manifold, engine brace etc. so take these numbers with a grain of salt as the total weight saved for the different differs from the raw engine saving numbers.

Bruce In Philly

So this requires new springs... how do you determine the spring rates?

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

groovzilla

delete

G0ingnowherefast

It doesn't require it. Do you change spring rates every time you add a passenger? It's the same general idea. On non-PASM OE suspension cars, the rear will raise by about 3/4" after the swap from the weight reduction. On coilovers you just adjust it for the new height and call it a day. If you do race the car competitively, it's probably worth it to adjust your spring rate accordingly.

I don't want to hijack the thread too bad, but I'm working on adding a tool to the website that can help guide people (mostly to those doing heavy track and competition because it doesn't matter otherwise) to select spring rates that work for them (assuming they want to keep similar OE balance. To do this we start by calculating the vehicles natural ride frequency. This is a calculation that takes into account the motion ratio (.88/.59 for 997) to find the effective wheel rate. Here's where it gets tricky - to do this right you need to have the corner weights for your car, and in a perfect world you'd be able to subtract the total unsprung weight from sprung weight. From there, you can find the ride frequency. Then it's just a matter of back calculating a similar frequency using the new weights with the spring rate as your "unknown".

Here's a great resource on those calculations:
https://www.drtuned.com/tech-ramblin...on-frequencies
https://www.racecompengineering.com/...e-motion-ratio
https://www.racecompengineering.com/...on-frequencies