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Based on the picture you posted, the strut has indeed sunken into the carrier. The tab that the arrow is pointing to was initially 90 degrees, and holds the strut from sliding too far into the wheel carrier. You are supposed to tighten the sway bar end link to clamp the strut BEFORE putting the car down, as the weight of the car easily bends that tab. You can see the tab bent and forced in between the clamp here. Jack up the car, loosen the sway bar end link, lift the strut up, bend the tab back, and tighten the end link before lowering the car back down.
Based on the picture you posted, the strut has indeed sunken into the carrier. The tab that the arrow is pointing to was initially 90 degrees, and holds the strut from sliding too far into the wheel carrier. You are supposed to tighten the sway bar end link to clamp the strut BEFORE putting the car down, as the weight of the car easily bends that tab. You can see the tab bent and forced in between the clamp here. Jack up the car, loosen the sway bar end link, lift the strut up, bend the tab back, and tighten the end link before lowering the car back down.
Thanks that does make sense...I compared the old and new shocks and I do see that tab...it's not on the old shock.
Does that mean that the tab just stops the strut from sliding too far down, but the weight and strnegth of holding the shock in position is on the swaybar link botl/nut?
The tab just holds the strut in the correct place when you install it, but the clamping force of the sway bar end link is what keeps the strut from sliding down under load. Make sure you tighten it to spec.
The tab just holds the strut in the correct place when you install it, but the clamping force of the sway bar end link is what keeps the strut from sliding down under load. Make sure you tighten it to spec.
Got it! Will give it a try. Appreciate the investigation and solution!
Holy crap. I've had this same problem on my front eibachs for years. They are about 1cm lower than the rear. I'll be researching this when I take it out of storage. Been on this forum for over a decade and still learn new things. Thanks, team.
Appreciate all your feedback! Especially @seewong you solved it!
Indeed, that tab on the strut had been bent so that the strut was sitting too low down into the wheel carrier.
I did the correction work this morning...it worked, the fronts aren't "slammed" now, there's about a hand width's clearance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the wheel well now. Matches the rears better....still definitely lower at the front than back, but I think that's just the way this suspension is set up. After some time I'll post back here on what heights the wheels settles:
Last edited by eggsandwich; 03-13-2024 at 06:13 PM.
Finally, for the front strut/suspension setup: there is a lower washer that sits above the bumper stop in the new strut and it seems like it could sit loosely and rattle - this was discussed in this thread...the solution is to screw the nut on top down further than on the original suspension so that the washer is tight flush with the top part of the assembly. https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-assembly.html
Last edited by eggsandwich; 03-13-2024 at 11:33 PM.
Glad I could help! One thing I did after installing that most others didn't do was to put retighten the bushings under load. I put one rear wheel on a ramp (wooden boards), and then put a jack stand under the car on the opposite side's jack point (wheel removed). Then I jacked up the wheel carrier until the car was level, and loosened and retightened all of the upper dog bones. This reset their resting points at the new ride height, and actually lowered my car another 1/8". Doesn't sound like much, but when you're dialing in the ride height it makes all the difference. I also did this with the front lower control arms where they meet the subframe. You can probably wait a little for the springs to settle before doing this if you are tired of messing with the car
Glad I could help! One thing I did after installing that most others didn't do was to put retighten the bushings under load. I put one rear wheel on a ramp (wooden boards), and then put a jack stand under the car on the opposite side's jack point (wheel removed). Then I jacked up the wheel carrier until the car was level, and loosened and retightened all of the upper dog bones. This reset their resting points at the new ride height, and actually lowered my car another 1/8". Doesn't sound like much, but when you're dialing in the ride height it makes all the difference. I also did this with the front lower control arms where they meet the subframe. You can probably wait a little for the springs to settle before doing this if you are tired of messing with the car
Nice suggestion. Will totally do this in a few weeks time after the suspension has settled a little more. I'm as OCD as the next guy w a wrench!
For reference here are (not so great) photos of my car but it shows the ride height really clear with the same kit:
Your front looks lower to me in all pics but your rear looks about the same. Sorry this is kind of a repeat post but I am just adding some data. Hi.
This is mine now...I think the front driver's side is slightly lower by about 0.5 to 1 cm.
I remember from my Toyota FJ cruiser days, the driver's side used to sag slightly more than the passenger side because of the unequal distribution of weight from the fuel tank.
Not sure if that's a thing w our cars?
Last edited by eggsandwich; 03-13-2024 at 11:46 PM.
i was thinking that wheels and tire sizes might add some variation but one thing I do not like about eibach springs is that they have a rake. From my memory, it mimics the stock height but I would rather level (i.e. lower back, higher front in this case).
I can post side by sides of my car in the same spot before (with OEM GT3 coilovers) and after (B12 Kit). I can also post OEM, Eibachs with stock shocks, and the other two mentioned if desired but to anyone who isn's insane such as myself, I think it is fairly relative once the car is lowered.
03-12-2024, 12:38 PM
Your front struts are sunken
