I am not well versed in the mechanics and only in slightly body issues. Wondering if anyone has major issues to look out for when buying a damaged 997?

And what sort of tests I can run when with the car to double check? Want to avoid buying an absolute dud but interested in fixing up within reason at a shop with lift and tools (and obviously parts).

I appreciate and and all help!

 

Interesting question for your first post. BLUF, IMHO, entertain the idea but do not execute. Too many dark alleys of regret down this path.

Questions and thoughts:
- How will you source the wreck? auction? you will be bidding against professionals. buying from someone who has damaged it? have it looked at by body shop and auto repairs shop.
- "Slight body issues" are only the beginning of the known unknowns. Know that there is hidden damage, it is just unknown what all it will be
- airbags deployed? Did the pyro battery disconnect fire?
- the shops (body and auto repair) will charge you their flat rate plus parts. Shops need to be familiar with Porsches, aluminum welding, and servicing the mechanicals, if required. They may even ask for funds in advance and when those run down, ask for more until the work is completed. another way to look at it, their estimates will be open ended.
- Porsche parts are suffering from supply chain issues.
- Will your insurance company of choice insure the car, assuming it was totaled/salvage if purchased through an auction?

 

There are so many potential expensive problems/issues with any severly wrecked Porsche that I would advise against purchasing a total wreck or severly wrecked 997 unless being used for parts or unless you have unlimited budget or you are a professional shop with experience.
Small amount of damage can still lead to expensive repairs; has car been sitting outside in rain and electronics toast?? Frame bent? Salvage title which will devalue the car and be less appealing to future buyer?
I would take small steps and recommend bring an experience Porsche body shop guy w/you if you move forward.

 

It’s almost like if you have to ask, then….

There are definitely opportunities to be had, especially for track duty cars, but if you don’t have a whole lot of experience in this field then you might want to consider a different car to start with. An unknown/unknowable issue on a wrecked Porsche can be a costly lesson.

 

Like everyone else, I love a good deal. So, when I first started to get interested in 911s I kept looking at damaged ones that I could have fixed up. However, after consulting my preferred body shop about a few of the cars I came to the following conclusion:

• Demand for damaged 911s is high, as many people dream of getting a dream car for less than market value
• High demand equals overinflated prices of wrecked cars
• By the time you are done with repairs, s wrecked 911 will probably cost you the same, or more, then market value for a clean 911 if you fix it properly (unless you are a bodyshop owner or are not turning it into a track car)
• A salvage 911 will always be worth significantly less than a clean history car, when you go to sell it.

My advice is skip the damaged 911 and go for a high mileage one instead. They are amazingly well built cars and will run almost forever if taken care of properly. That is where the deals are for the average buyer, in my opinion, who want to get into 911 ownership on a cheaper budget.

 

How long ago was she hit. If the damage was incurred. My car was in a major rear end collision 13 years ago a year after I bought her. I found a great body shop in Long Island and they fixed it perfect ...there was no frame or engine damage and 13 years later I haven't had on accident related issue. I kept her because I loved her and the PTS was a special color.

I ahve all my service records and I'd never sell her but I'm sure there are others like her....you/we need more info to make an informed decision.

 

Just another opinion but depending on what kind of damage the "crashed" car you're looking at has sustained you probably have to start taking the car apart to find out exactly what's going on with it. Good due diligence is expensive and a bargain crashed 997 may end up costing more than an un-crashed 997.

The link attached below has been posted a number of times. For good reason. It's a great example of what looks like a minor hit that's almost hard to see that ends up with a frame replacement. I have no idea what the cost of that repair was but I know it wasn't cheap. Engine removal and all...

https://rennlist.com/forums/991/7603...r-job-huh.html

 

That's an apples to oranges comparison. The 991 is an aluminum car whereas the 997 has a steel chassis that can be straightened. But I agree with you that cars with major damage are a crap shoot unless you repaired it yourself.

Cars with prior major accidents also make bad track cars because the last thing you want to worry about at the track are mechanical or electrical gremlins.

 

Lets also not forget the extreme devaluation of a Salvaged Title car.
By the time you sort out/repair/paint a severly damaged project, and if you are lucky enough it actually starts and runs properly when you are finished, you will still be way behind the 8 Ball having a Salvaged Title and value diminished. I'd guess by at least 25-30%.below market value of non-Salvaged
Also Salvaged Title cars can be very difficult to insure which also makes them hard to sell.

If buying a wreck is due to not having enough funds to buy a running/driving example in very good condition, I would suggest waiting and build up your bank account. You will be much farther ahead in the long run.

 

I get that but when you're talking about a "crashed" 997 it opens up all kinds of possibilities including a steel frame that can't be straightened to factory specs and who knows what else. You may end up shopping for a car that will earn a salvage title once the "crash" damage has been established. Hopefully that won't be the case if you decide to move forward but again, due diligence on a crashed car can get expensive and there's obviously no guarantee of what the outcome will be.

 

OP gone.

 

LOL

 

Maybe he had already bought the car when posting here for what sounded like pre-purchase inspection advice. Then got some bad news once the car was evaluated. Hope that's not the case.

 

Agreed except that on a steel car you will always be able to get to factory spec, depending on how many structural parts you replace. Been there and done that on race cars.

 

No disagreement but I guess the question is what the cost of figuring out what's required to returning a steel frame to factory specs including the cost of actually getting it there would be. And if buying that crashed car would be a wise decision having no idea what's underneath it all. No telling until you start to take things apart which could go on for a while. As could the repair process.

To each their own. I'm a gambler here and there but not in cases like this.