MrMoose

I mean – assuming you're going for a balanced sound and not just trying to shake the windows – I'm rather surprised by that. With the Alpines I'm running my bass at -3 on the PCM with the loudness scaling on, so there's plenty of headroom for more bass if I wanted it. And the system is definitely more than loud enough for me overall even with just the stock ASK amp.

The Mr12Volt I have also has a full dynamic equalizer, so if I wanted more thump I guess I could probably boost the very low frequencies. But I haven't felt the need: I'm just looking to listen to tunes and have them sound reasonably good, and it's working very well as-is.

Like I said, if you're less lazy than me and willing to fit an aftermarket amplifier in place of the ASK, I think that would probably work quite well with the upgraded door speakers. With a configurable amp and better quality midrange speakers in the door, you could set your crossover to something like 100 Hz and use the 8" speakers as dedicated subs. But again, I haven't tried that.

Wcube

The bass with the PCCM+ and Alpine amp powering the 8" door woofers is more than adequate. No need for a subwoofer for me.

kellen

Not looking for bass thumping noise. Just feel the subwoofers filled in more of the bottom end.

I’ll keep looking.

Kuro Neko

Ditto!
While I wait for the mid-range set to arrive, I unpacked the 8-inch set, and installed the tweeters - amazing difference in sound over the factory tweeters (either because of age, or lousy spec with the OEM set).
The Alpine tweeters (as with either the S2-S40 or S2-S80 'C' version sets, you only need one with the C-suffix, unless you want four tweeter), sound amazing - so much more overall presence in the car, with an obvious high-end response, but also much more mid-range fill.

It is an easy install too.
I chose to cut off the Porsche plugs, and replace with a standard set of new 110 flat terminals (as per the Alpine shipped stuff).
I also shortened the Alpine tweeter cables, and reterminated with a 10cm tail, as that's all you really need in the dash position, picking up the factory tweeter feed.



Getting a trim removal tool under the tweeter grille though wasn't possible.
Even a credit card could not fit in the gap...



A bent paper clip though, in the grille holes closest to the locking tabs (away from windscreen) pulled it free with zero effort.
I was surprised just how easy they popped off this way.
I also removed all the slowly falling apart foam from both sides.



The OEM tweeters are just under 40mm, and the new Alpines (when removed from outer case) are 42mm.
So I merely Dremeled some flats at 03:00, 09:00, and 12:00 and the new tweeters just slotted into the Porsche retention clips with a little finger effort.



You can see one slight flat here.
The other clip, and the window-side tab also needed the same mm or so letting-in.



OEM grille snugs down over Alpine tweeter with no issues.
If you look through grille you can see the different ring, but that's not an issue.

Thanks again for the set reco, and next, the 4- and 8-inch units for the doors...

nate5150

Did you at one point run these APLINE S2-S80C 8" drivers with the factory ASK AMP that wants to see 2ohms there? Those alpine are 4ohm.

And your pics clearly show otherwise, but Crutchfield never offered these speakers up because according to their system they will not fit.

Wcube

I don't believe I ran the 8" woofers with the ASK amp. I swapped out the amp to the Alpine unit prior to listening. Please keep in mind that you have to cut out the plastic grid of the factory housing in order to top mount the 8" woofer. The 4" speakers fit perfectly.

Update on my system: I ended up swapping out the 4" coaxial speakers with the Alpine 4" component midrange speakers. With the tweeter in the dash and also in the doors, the sound was too bright.

I also switched back to head unit power from the PCCM+ to power the 4" speakers front/rear and dash tweeters, and ran the Alpine amp just to the door woofers in bridged mode (90 watts RMS per channel). It all sounds even better now.

MrMoose

I was playing with an RTA (real time analyzer, I'm trying to see if I need to change the crossovers on my mids) this weekend and the Alpines put out plenty down to 40-50 Hz. So much so that I had to dial them back to get things more flat. I mean, they're 8" speakers: if you set them up right you don't need an additional sub. You could mount a 10" or 12" in a box, sure, but that's a PITA and from what I'm seeing completely unnecessary.

At least on the 987.2 and 997.2 the stock 8" speakers are 4 Ohm. I've personally measured them and I'm sure of this.

Crutchfield will only recommend speakers that are drop-in fit, which is why they say they don't have anything to replace the 8" ones. But you can get speakers to fit where they're not supposed to, it just takes some ingenuity and modifications.

nate5150

Thank you for making this thread - it is a goldmine for me and I have not found as much good info anywhere else.

At this point, all of my speakers in the sound package plus non Bose work, except the passenger "woofer" 8" aka 6.5" or whatever the hell we want to call it. That speaker is the biggest one in the car, mounted at base of door and has OEM PART NUMBER 997-645-553-00 and can be had brand new for $86 bucks, from a place like this:

https://www.gaudinporscheparts.com/o...r-99764555300?

They sell for more USED on eBay, so buying a new one makes sense. I understand the speaker itself is not amazing and is nowhere near Focal or other quality, but it is 2ohm and what the amp wants to see and will fit with zero issues. I simply need to fix my busted *** speaker and nasty rattle.

I have the CDR-24 unit in now but will be putting in SONY XAV-AV6000 with the harness/adapter/kit and I also need a lower pocket panel since the car had an XM radio add on which I am ripping out.

I will be keeping all stock speakers as well as the ASK amp. The ASK amp needs to see 2ohm at certain drivers and there is a lot of DSP being done by that ASK system to properly distribute the sound to each driver and tweeter.. I do not think it is wise to keep the ASK AMP and put in any drivers that are not 2ohm or the correct impedance. I have come across many posts/threads/random googs where people are putting in random 4ohm and even 8ohm speakers in but keeping the ASK amp. The output will drop substantially and its going to **** off the ASK amp. So, I'm sticking with stock speakers. Either retain everything stock with the ASK system, OR, redo the entire system -amp, drivers, DSP, everything. I would not advise mixing and matching stuff with the ASK system, period.

THANKS FOR THIS THREAD. You confirmed that i need the part below and I'm ordering it now.

Woofer - Porsche (997-645-553-00)

I always research the **** out of things before I start them. There is nothing worse than having your car torn apart and then realizing that you ordered part XYZ1234 that was 10mm when you actually need the XZY6789 that is 8mm and you wait 2 weeks for it to show up.

E39Nutz

LOL, anything is possible. I cut off the slats, the 8 inch focal fits perfectly fine.

Vocan

For what it's worth, this has not been my experience. I'm running the PCCM+ and the ASK amp and all of my speakers have been replaced with 4 ohm Fosgates. It's a massive improvement over the poor quality OEM speakers and sounds far better than the Bose system in my 991.1 did. I wouldn't necessarily advise mixing and matching impedences throughout the car as you're going to have a volume imbalance but as long as it's all the same then I've had no issues and the sound quality has been very good for a car system.

E39Nutz

Most aftermarket speakers with nominal 4 ohms actually measured at about 3 ohm, the Bose crap measured at about 2.5 ohm. There is really negligible differences. Like others have said, so long as there is no mix and match, most aftermarket speakers will sound a quantum level better than the fussy Bose crap.

nate5150

Kuro - When you upgraded your amp, did you remove the big main wire "dongle" from the ASK amp and splice into all of the various wires which led to each of the speakers and simply reused all of the factory wires with already run to all of the speakers? I just popped my frunk and removed the panel down there to expose the ASK amp and the tools and other stuff. I want to say it looks like I could potentially unclip that black plug that feeds the ASK amp and tap into all of those wires if I had a legend for color codes and then hook those up to my new amp? Though it would require getting wire from new head unit back to that area... RCA PRE OUTS, etc.

Wcube

I unplugged and removed the ASK amp, and tapped into the harness with Posi-Tap connectors from Crutchfield. I had some connectivity issues with the power and ground, so I ended up running an independent ground wire to a factory ground point in the frunk. For the power, I cut into the factory power wire and crimp connected it to the amp (the Alpine amp I used only requires a 15 amp connection, and the factory amp power wire is fused at 25 amp). The rest of the connections to the speakers were fine with the Posi-Tap connectors.

nate5150

what about running RCA or the pre outs from your new head unit back there to the amp? did you have to fish wire from front of car to rear for that? did you also deploy a separate DSP or did you have enough amp channels to power all of the sound package plus speakers?

Wcube

I did run RCA's from the PCCM+ initially. Routed it through the frunk through a couple of grommets, and into the passenger compartment. Everything sounded great, until the engine was running, and I couldn't get rid of the alternator whine completely, it was hardly noticeable, but I could still tell it was there. I then decided to rip out the RCA's, re-plug the speakers back into the PCCM+, and run the amp with high level inputs from the ASK amp harness instead. Now the amp is just powering the 8" door woofers, and I'm very happy with the sound.