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I got a bunch of stuff done to the top of the engine before I can drop it down to the ground and marry it with the Tiptronic gearbox. Then the engine goes in the car this Sunday.
That engine is a piece of Art!!
Yep - The majority of Bore Scoring is found in the 3.8L "S" engines.
I got tired of seeing scoring in the 997S cars I wanted to buy that I decided to go with the 3.6L C4. Love it and at 107K miles cylinders are extremely clean on BS Inspection done 600 miles ago.
This is absolutely fantastic, great to see people taking the initiative on stuff like this. Thanks for the photos and the write-up.
If you don't mind sharing your parts list when you are ready I'm sure folks would find it helpful. Also a list of special tools, particularly if there's a cheap version that works. What tools did you use for the wrist pin clips and holding the cams while timing? I've seen cheap ones on Ebay and Aliexpress and wondered if they were adequate.
Did you snip the ears off the wrist pins before installing or leave them on and actually get them aligned into the holes. According to Jake, you don't need them and it makes the job much easier if you cut them off.
Curious what climate you live in and if the car reached operating temp before driving past ~3k rpm?
We live in NorCal, a temperate climate. My wife is not known for warming up the car. She gets in, turns the key, and drives off in 3 seconds flat. And frankly, I am the same way. Neither of us would keep it lower than 3,000 rpm.
This is absolutely fantastic, great to see people taking the initiative on stuff like this. Thanks for the photos and the write-up.
If you don't mind sharing your parts list when you are ready I'm sure folks would find it helpful. Also a list of special tools, particularly if there's a cheap version that works. What tools did you use for the wrist pin clips and holding the cams while timing? I've seen cheap ones on Ebay and Aliexpress and wondered if they were adequate.
Again, nice work!
Special tools are needed for the engine work.
1. For the wrist pin clips, I bought and modified to fit the Baum M96/97 wrist pin installation tool. Not the best one out there, but reasonable cost. You have to learn to use this tool in pieces.
2. For the cam timing, I already have a set of Baum M96 cam timing tool. From that set, you just take out a few pieces to be used on the 997 Variocam Plus engine.
3. I needed to buy the cam bolt holding tool for torquing to 110 degrees. That one just came off Ebay, cheap and works.
4. Highly recommend a 1/2 long torque wrench that can electronically read angle. I already have a Gearwrench 1/2 for this job. I only use it for angles, I hate it for other straight Nm work because its batteries are always dead. And I have a dozen click type / balance beam type torque wrenches that get calibrated evey year so they are accurate to use. Special hand tools are required when you roll around with Porsches, BMWs, Audi... they love torque, 12 point, allen fasteners. What the hell is wrong with them Germans?
5. The specs book from LNE is very handy. 95% complete but all in one place. Worth the $50. Porsche used to sell those little hand books for the old air-cooled 911 and this is better.
This is absolutely fantastic, great to see people taking the initiative on stuff like this. Thanks for the photos and the write-up.
If you don't mind sharing your parts list when you are ready I'm sure folks would find it helpful. ...
Again, nice work!
Parts list: This is entirely up to the owner-builder. I went fairly light.
1. New main bearings
2. New rod bearings
3. New L/R timing chain (re-used IMS chain)
4. All new chain guides. They were ALL worn out and pitted.
5. New crank case M9 bolts (9mm bolts, really?)
6. New 4L pistons, with wrist pins, and clips, and new rings (all came with the LNE case)
7. New rod bolts (re-used rods)
8. I would recommend new water pump, new AOSs (but I already changed them last year during the big service where I discovered the scoring, so I re-used those)
9. All new dowel pins for the case (I cheated and used a drill press as a lathe to clean mine up)
10. LNE was serious when they said to remove all removable bits from the case before sending it in. I send in my case with the wrist pin access hole cover in place and it did not come back to me, so I had to buy a new one. I should send LNE the bill.
11. New RMS, Front main seal, AOS seals, Spark plug hole seals (above and below), tensioner seals, intake runner seals, scavenge oil pump seals, cam shaft end plugs, other odd and end gaskets.
12. New spark plugs
13. Head gaskets from LNE
14. Had to replace a broken power steering line clip (that little red rubber clip) that broke during removal even with the correct tool. Porsche got me over a barrel. They don't sell the 50-cent clip, it only comes with the $150 reservoir. A new cuss word was invented that day.
15. And a new 90 right angle coolant hose at the bottom of the engine.
16. New flywheel / flex-plate bolts.
I am in for about $10K.
$6k to LNE for their work and pistons and pins and rings and clips
$1k for a valve job
$2.5K for Porsche engine parts
$500 for misc.
Did you snip the ears off the wrist pins before installing or leave them on and actually get them aligned into the holes. According to Jake, you don't need them and it makes the job much easier if you cut them off.
new wrist pins and clips came with LNE case work. I threw the old clips away, those little bastuds (see, I have a healthy supply of cuss words)
Cool to see the build process. I spotted a couple Ferraris in the background and request info/pictures.
SHARP EYE.
The blue one is a 2000 360 Modena F1, in Tour de France blue. This one will be converted to 6-speed next year when my car budget recovers
The red one is 1989 328 in Rosso Corsa. The old reliable, drive it and park it F-car. And no pix. I lost all the pix in the computer crash.
What you did not see (because it was on the lift over the red F car) is a 2005 GT3, no IMS no Bore-scoring, thank you.
By the way, there are hundred steps not discussed ... like gapping the piston rings, cleaning the bores, aligning the con rod big ends, checking the crank shaft clearance, etc... If you are going down this path, you should know to do those.
07-18-2023, 09:10 PM
