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I have a 2012 Carrera 4 GTS with center lock wheels. I've only had the car for a couple of months and was concerned that these wheels would be a pain to work with. And now I've confirmed that, sadly. I have not removed the wheels before although this was done a few months ago when the previous owner had a SunCoast 'PCCB' delete kit fitted. I bought a Neiko 3:1 torque multiplier to make this removal easier. The problem is that even with 200 ft/lbs on the input side (so I'm assuming 600 ft/lbs of turning force on the output side) - I cant budge the wheel! So I'm annoyed. But then again - I've never tried to removed center locks before - or ever used a torque multiplier. So maybe I'm just doing it wrong? I did watch a youtube video of the process so that I knew what to watch out for. The removal tool goes all the way in so I expect its pushing in the locking mechanism... Ok So any ideas?
I have the same torque multiplier and have never had an issue, it sounds and looks to me like you are doing everything right. Are all four wheels the same? BTW, I use a breaker bar rather than a torque wrench when taking them off so I don't break it. Some torque wrenches don't read accurately when loosening so that could be confusing things here too.
That Nieko is dead nuts on in it's 3x multiplying as several people have independently measured it so I don't think that's an issue. It was probably just overtightened, maybe it wasn't properly greased (or the wrong grease used) when last installed. Good luck.
I have a 2012 GTS. I don't have any experience with the force multiplier tool. I use the Tekton 3/4" drive x 38" breaker bar with no problem. I did have an issue at one time because a shop overtightened the nut.
Bummer. I wonder whether the last removal/install omitted the aluminum/moly paste needed to prevent the centerlock nut binding? I am also dreading removal of mine. I think the only option is to grab a beer and a buddy and safely give it as much as necessary. Good luck.
I decided to have a rest and calm down a bit before trying the other side rear instead. This side worked - with about 200 ft /lbs on the input side.... There does not seem to be a lot of paste on the parts where its required... At least its given me some confidence to try the other side again . Any thoughts on the past application on this one?
I decided to have a rest and calm down a bit before trying the other side rear instead. This side worked - with about 200 ft /lbs on the input side.... There does not seem to be a lot of paste on the parts where its required... At least its given me some confidence to try the other side again . Any thoughts on the past application on this one?
Not an expert but mine have a lot more than that when I take them off (but I clean and coat them pretty thoroughly each time they are off). Someone may have just reinstalled them last time without a new coating.
Most likely whoever put the wheels on last time failed to set the lock(s). A friend's car suffered this fate and it required a large person jumping on a 4 foot pipe that was sleeved over the breaker bar while I stood on the brake in order to loosen it. That was also the left rear wheel which I suspect puts more torque on the nut. Those who work on these things know that can happen.
The 997 came without tools. Have your parts guy look up center lock tools for the 991 and you will find a $10 plastic tool used to pop the hub caps as well as set the lock once the wheels are installed. Buy this!!!!!
Had the same experience removing mine first time, now that I torque them myself I usually don’t even need the multiplier. Some tips in the thread below. Make sure your torque wrench can accommodate high loads so you don’t damage it, or just use a breaker to loosen.
I have a 2012 Carrera 4 GTS with center lock wheels. I've only had the car for a couple of months and was concerned that these wheels would be a pain to work with. And now I've confirmed that, sadly. I have not removed the wheels before although this was done a few months ago when the previous owner had a SunCoast 'PCCB' delete kit fitted.
Just curious what this means. "A Suncoast PCCB delete kit fitted". It sounds like someone didn't want the PCCB's and the previous owner bought them and had them installed. I don't know how else to interpret this. "Delete" typically means an item was not ordered when the car was built and therefore wasn't installed in the first place.
To the point though, the yellow caliper has the PCCB color but neither the caliper, nor the rotor in the picture look like the real thing to me. I hope I'm wrong but it doesn't look like an authentic PCCB brake set to my eyes. But I may be misunderstanding what a "PCCB delete kit" means in this case.
Just curious what this means. "A Suncoast PCCB delete kit fitted". It sounds like someone didn't want the PCCB's and the previous owner bought them and had them installed. I don't know how else to interpret this. "Delete" typically means an item was not ordered when the car was built and therefore wasn't installed in the first place.
To the point though, the yellow caliper has the PCCB color but neither the caliper, nor the rotor in the picture look like the real thing to me. I hope I'm wrong but it doesn't look like an authentic PCCB brake set to my eyes. But I may be misunderstanding what a "PCCB delete kit" means in this case.
Should be called a PCCB Conversion Kit as it provides rotors the same size as the PCCB ones and iron rotor compatible pads. So uses the PCCB calipers with new iron rotors and pads which is what's shown in the photo. With PCCBs the rear caliper are 4 piston and the fronts the larger 6 piston.
12-26-2022, 04:44 PM
Center Lock Wheel help
. Any thoughts on the past application on this one?
