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You do a ppi before you buy the car so it would be premature to pay for expensive coils and spark plugs for ...a car you haven't owned.
I think logic would dictate you 1st PPI the car and if all is good you then do the Bore Scope Inspection. If Bore Scope Inspection looks good, you keep car on rack and negotiate final purchase price with seller and make a deal. If you make the deal to buy the car, then have Coils & Plugs installed while car is on the rack.
Don't forget the Idler Pulleys & Belt. May as well if they haven't been done.
When I purchased my car, the owner had just completed a major service including Coils/Plugs/Water Pump/Thermostat, Idler Pulleys and Belt. Also did a coolant and brake flush.
It's nice to buy a car fully serviced.
FWIW, If it were me I would do a BS inspection first (from spark plugs) starting with the worst offenders first (6 &1?). If those bad, stop right there and only pay for the nominal time spent. If all good from the spark plug holes, only then do the rest of the PPI. If really being thorough, drop the pan and also scope that way. Why would you spend $ on a PPI first, then do the BS to find bad news-waste of $?
Also don't' necessarily worry about replacing plugs and coil packs at this point - that is not the objective and starts getting complicated with the seller and the one doing the inspection. I guess you could have parts on hand and install once all is determined to be good (and all plugs and packs still removed), deal is made, and alternatively you are sure parts are returnable if PPI is not good. I understand it would be cost effective if all the stars aligned, but again you are trying to buy a car at this point, not give it a tune up.
FWIW, If it were me I would do a BS inspection first (from spark plugs) starting with the worst offenders first (6 &1?). If those bad, stop right there and only pay for the nominal time spent. If all good from the spark plug holes, only then do the rest of the PPI. If really being thorough, drop the pan and also scope that way. Why would you spend $ on a PPI first, then do the BS to find bad news-waste of $?
Also don't' necessarily worry about replacing plugs and coil packs at this point - that is not the objective and starts getting complicated with the seller and the one doing the inspection. I guess you could have parts on hand and install once all is determined to be good (and all plugs and packs still removed), deal is made, and alternatively you are sure parts are returnable if PPI is not good. I understand it would be cost effective if all the stars aligned, but again you are trying to buy a car at this point, not give it a tune up.
The time of day is causing the angle of the nearby star to produce shadowing from the moons, exacerbating the atmospheric coloring from methane/ammonia mix. I’m pretty sure.
The time of day is causing the angle of the nearby star to produce shadowing from the moons, exacerbating the atmospheric coloring from methane/ammonia mix. I’m pretty sure.
Yea that's a ridiculous pic, and I know a bore score exam is not cheap. OP definitely needs a credit back on that expense.
I do think if the car was will looked after and maintenance done, with no external signs of bore scoring including sooty tailpipes, ticking, higher oil consumption, etc. you should really be fine. There is no guarantee, but severe scoring would present itself elsewhere.
I thought the bore scope images I was given were not very helpful. But wow, what you've been given is not useful in the least. If I paid extra to specifically get bore scope photos taken, I would object to paying for that part of the PPI if this is what you've been given. All that said... if they can verbally tell you the moving images they saw during the scope told them without a doubt there is significant bore scoring (they just couldn't get a good still image for you) then you might want to take them at their word.
onnastick, they did confirm there was scoring but they can't determine how bad it is. They were understanding in that the images were not very useful. They want to do a compression test to see if there is any issue. What is extremely frustrating is this place is supposed to be a hi end exotics shop and this is what they have for a bore scop. My $50 scope off Amazon gives better images.
FWIW, If it were me I would do a BS inspection first (from spark plugs) starting with the worst offenders first (6 &1?). If those bad, stop right there and only pay for the nominal time spent. If all good from the spark plug holes, only then do the rest of the PPI. If really being thorough, drop the pan and also scope that way. Why would you spend $ on a PPI first, then do the BS to find bad news-waste of $?
Also don't' necessarily worry about replacing plugs and coil packs at this point - that is not the objective and starts getting complicated with the seller and the one doing the inspection. I guess you could have parts on hand and install once all is determined to be good (and all plugs and packs still removed), deal is made, and alternatively you are sure parts are returnable if PPI is not good. I understand it would be cost effective if all the stars aligned, but again you are trying to buy a car at this point, not give it a tune up.
So I had them do the scope first and they found the scoring in cylinder 1 and said the rest were good. I haven't continued with PPI at this point. As bad as the images from the scope were I told the dealership they found scoring and now the dealership is looking at what they are going to do. IF they come back with some magical number that makes me want to continue I'll do the rest of the PPI. They said either I buy it or they are sending it to auction. It would have to be an offer I can't refuse at this point. Still pretty frustrated with this scope imagery quality.
The time of day is causing the angle of the nearby star to produce shadowing from the moons, exacerbating the atmospheric coloring from methane/ammonia mix. I’m pretty sure.
I'm calling Fox and Scully to come look at it. I think they may be able to discover what it is.
Groove if you can share the photos of your recent 997….it will 1) Show what good Bore scope photos should look like & 2) show what good clean bores should look like and help op out.
Op:
Sorry you got such a crappy photo but as crappy as it is, that 1 you have doesn’t look good. If that’s all I had to go by, I would walk….not worth the risk, unless you are willing to rebuild engine or engine swap which are very costly options…
Thanks Scalp_em, so I had them wait on the rest of the PPI. I informed the dealer of the scoring. They asked what I wanted to make a deal. I didn't give them a number I just told them what an engine rebuild cost would be for this car. I went to Flat Six and got a ballpark number from Jake. The dealer is supposed to get back to me but said if I don't buy it they will send it to auction. I have one foot out the door already but if they make some insane number that I can't refuse I'll consider it if I am not out of pocket from what the original cost of the car was.
18498266[/url]]So I had them do the scope first and they found the scoring in cylinder 1 and said the rest were good. I haven't continued with PPI at this point. As bad as the images from the scope were I told the dealership they found scoring and now the dealership is looking at what they are going to do. IF they come back with some magical number that makes me want to continue I'll do the rest of the PPI. They said either I buy it or they are sending it to auction. It would have to be an offer I can't refuse at this point. Still pretty frustrated with this scope imagery quality.
They will likely send to auction and not disclose the issue.
12-02-2022, 09:06 PM
