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Old 11-30-2022, 03:36 PM
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GoBlueBirkett
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Default Oil Seepage

Two questions for the board. Any feedback is much appreciated!

1) Does the price quoted below sound reasonable or excessive?
2) How technical / Porsche specific of a job is this? I have a mechanic that I use for our other cars that I trust, but haven't brought my Porsche to him just yet. I'm considering using him for routine items going forward.

Details: Took my 2009 997.2 C2 Cab with 69K miles to the dealer for an oil change this week and they found oil seepage. They cleaned the pan, applied a white powder, drove for a few miles and were able to identify 3 locations where oil was seeping out. The pictures show oil on both the lower and upper pans. There is also a scape on the bottom of the oil pan that I'm fairly sure was from me going over a speedbump a little too fast in the last 250 miles.

I watched a video from Pelican Parts on replacing the oil pan gasket that seemed time consuming but not difficult. But that's the opinion of a guy that doesn't work on cars much.

The written recommendation from the dealer was "Upper and Lower Oil Pan Reseal: Using leak detect spray and only a 12-mile test drive, it was found that the upper and lower oil pans were leaking oil. Recommend a reseal of both pans. Cost $2,109"

Of course, I'm about 6 months out of my CPO from when I bought it, but so far have had good experience with the dealer. At least for oil changes, their rates are very competitive relative to independent garages I called and the other Porsche dealer here in Chicago.

A few pictures of the leaks











Old 11-30-2022, 07:26 PM
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MrMoose
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How bad is it leaking? Car’s 13 years old, a little oil seeping from the flanges would not be unexpected. It it’s just seeping out a bit and you’re not getting significant drips on the ground I’d probably just leave it for now, myself.
Old 11-30-2022, 07:31 PM
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Mike Murphy
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Sounds a little pricey to me.

I think, but not sure, it should be an easy DIY.

The next oil change you do, remove all oil and drop the oil pan. Wait a long time for all oil to drain and drip free. You can use this time to visually inspect the oil pump pickup screen, remove any debris found in the pan, or even perform a borescope check if you have the time. Borescope devices found on Amazon and hook up to your iPhone are cheap.
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Old 11-30-2022, 07:33 PM
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RPMtech147
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Reseal the lower in the driveway, let the upper leak. Clean it off again in another 13 years. Profit.

In all seriousness, from those photos, looks like its just the lower.

Last edited by RPMtech147; 11-30-2022 at 07:36 PM.
Old 11-30-2022, 07:37 PM
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groovzilla
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Dealer = Ripoff.
Go to Indy Specialist and pay 1/2

Old 11-30-2022, 07:50 PM
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Coolwnc
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Originally Posted by groovzilla
Dealer = Ripoff.
Go to Indy Specialist and pay 1/2
Very true! Crazy price! Bend me over.
Old 11-30-2022, 09:24 PM
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MrMoose
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Originally Posted by RPMtech147
Reseal the lower in the driveway, let the upper leak. Clean it off again in another 13 years. Profit.

In all seriousness, from those photos, looks like its just the lower.
Ha, I like that plan. I don't have the 997.2 service manual, but at least on the 987.2 with the same engine, the lower oil pan procedure looks relatively easy. You do also have to drain the coolant (at least on the 987.2).

Though again, I'd gauge the severity before you bother to do anything. If it's just seeping at the oil pan a bit it's really not urgent right now. Though bear in mind that owning some older Italian cars has given me a pretty lackadaisical attitude towards oil leaks, lol.
Old 12-01-2022, 08:52 AM
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Petza914
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That's crazy expensive for removing the sump and reinstalling. I don't know the specifics of the m2 but think the gasket is built into the pan, unlike on the .1s.

If so, and you're not even waiting for dealer to cure 24 hours this is a 2 hour job with probably a $200 part (guessing), so they're charging you $1,000/hour.
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Old 12-01-2022, 10:28 AM
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Bruce In Philly
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2009 C2S 185K miles

Pete is spot on... you are getting ripped off in a massive way. The .2 (9A1 engine) pan has a gasket... the cost of this gasket? $18. Yes, you read that correctly.

https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/o...et-9a110732502

To be open, I have never removed and replaced this gasket but this is one of the dumbest, easiest jobs to do. Drain the oil, remove the bolts with a torx bit, remove the old gasket, wipe, replace. Jeez!

Now if it were my car seeping, and the seeping is what I see there... not leaving drips on the floor... I would leave it until I was bored next summer and looking for something to do.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
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Old 12-01-2022, 03:55 PM
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I genuinely appreciate all the feedback. I didn't include this in my inital post, but I also have a picture of the upper pan that is tucked further up in the engine showing seepage. That one is trickier to get to.

Also, below is a "before" picture prior to the dealer cleaning it off. The pan is completely covered, though I haven't had any drips on my garage floor. The magnitude of the mess on the pan is what has me a little concerned. The complete coverage on the pan suggests to me that perhaps as I drive, it's getting blown around?


Old 12-01-2022, 03:56 PM
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GoBlueBirkett
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"Reseal the lower in the driveway, let the upper leak. Clean it off again in another 13 years. Profit.
In all seriousness, from those photos, looks like its just the lower."

I'm leaning towards this solution. Thanks
Old 12-01-2022, 04:38 PM
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Upper pan is a bit tougher, looks like you need to remove the oil pump and a bunch of other stuff. Form a quick glance at the service manual it doesn’t look too crazy, but definitely a lot more involved than the lower pan.
Old 12-01-2022, 05:26 PM
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Mike Murphy
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Just to nit-pick terminology, the 996 oil pan does not use a gasket per-se, but a gasket is formed from a liquid sealant that is applied to the surface when clean and dry. Might be similar on your car.
Old 12-02-2022, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by GoBlueBirkett
"Reseal the lower in the driveway, let the upper leak. Clean it off again in another 13 years. Profit.
In all seriousness, from those photos, looks like its just the lower."

I'm leaning towards this solution. Thanks
When you retighten the bolts it should be done symmetrically on both sides from the inside to the outside, the tightening torque is 10 Nm/7.4 lbf ft for the MK1-models, should be sufficiant/similar to MK2. Genuine screws have an adhesive for securing them. Could use a drop of blue Loctite if you think it is necessary...



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