Aw maaaaannnnn. I hoped I wouldn't get called out on that. In my defense, I have not even washed a car in 15 years. Correction, I washed my Honda Element before trading it in on a Honda Pilot in 2012. Never washed the Pilot once and I still own it, but now my son drives it. He doesn't wash it either. My other vehicle is a Jeep Wrangler. You are no allowed to wash those. They kick you out of the Wave club if you're caught. Rain wash only.

Now that I have this car I bought a detailing cart and $250 worth of bottles, rags, shammys, cremes, treatments etc. It all started coming back to me...the times when I actually gave a sh*t about a car. I watched a few detailing videos and 'doze guys is nuts'. Who ever heard of pulling out all the lights or removing the nameplate on the decklid and then reapplying double-sided tape with manicuring scissors to reattach it. Nuh-uh. Not me. You're more likely to find me at an autocross event rather that a cars and coffee or concourse.

 

Petza914 thanks for the clarification on my Magnetic Oil Plug and Bore Scoring-

The car is not a candidate for the IMS Bearing issue based on the Engine #.

As for the Bore Scoring and Aluminum, thats what I thought, but then I figured other internals could be effected creating the metal particles...but I guess not.

Oh well, piece of mind I suppose for internal issues.

 

Planning on being away for only a week, but to play it safe, I'd like to keep the frunk unlocked just to be safe. That said, the frunk light turns on when the frunk is popped. I can take out the bulb, but want to know if anything else might be drawing power when the furnk is popped? Does leaving the frunk unlocked have any impact on the mechanism that automatically locks the car after ~7 days?

 

The car doesn't actually lock itself, it just goes to sleep, but I don't believe it will do that unless the doors are locked. The right solution is to leave it plugged into a battery tender and then you can leave it locked or unlocked and it won't matter. All of mine are on tenders and unlocked.

 

My CTek battery tender plugs/has adpater into the outlet in the interior, I use the one in the passenger footwell. I dont have to mess with the batter terminals and hood/battery cover.

 

The antigravity battery monitor is a nice thing to have.... From the app that comes with it my charging voltage is 13.9V, which it has been for ages. I don't have a tender (shared garage with no outlet nearby) and leave the car routinely for a couple of weeks. Anything longer I disconnect the battery (and pop the frunk ). Have had the current AGM battery for two years still going strong; the previous non-AGM battery failed after 1.5 years. These cars are demanding on the battery.

Pro-tip to reduce battery drain: press the lock button once then another time and hold it. This switches off the interior space monitoring of the alarm system, and saves energy.

 

You can take the guess work out of it and have the battery tested... just sayin. It took me about 30 min to take it out a drive to the parts store.

If it is still good, move on to the next thing. If it's bad, have the battery replaced under warranty. Battery's are not manufactured as good as they used to be. My optima yellow top should not be bad after 4 months... it was defective. It would not hold a charge.

 

I am sure you know that AGM batteries require a higher charging voltage than lead batteries....

 

Had a similar issue with a dead battery after months of no prior issues. Tracked it down to a loose interior door bulb. Re-seated it and have not had any issues since.