dgjks6

In nut shell there is a bolt on the trans called the "bleeder screw". When it leaks it means the radial shaft seal has failed. And when it fails you have to replace the trans. I made a post about it somewhere. It was a 3 month process.

Weird part is I bought a Porsche instead of an Aston Martin because I was afraid of huge repair bills. Literally every Porsche I have owned has need $20,000 worth of repairs. Crazy.

Ironman88

Maybe if you transitioned temporarily to a Prius, you might break the hex and change your luck...

Petza914

That is crazy. I've spent well over that in mods, but nowhere new that in repairs, even between both cars.

ATX_Native

Crazy stuff

PDK is an amazing transmission but when things go wrong it can definitely sting ya.

BucketList

Replacing an entire trans for a freaking SEAL? That's offensive.

dgjks6

If you guys think it's crazy, guess what the aftermarket warranty thought. I'll bet 100/1 that endurance does not offer a warranty on a 911 r if they do it's at least $7,000

flatovercrest

They are pretty awesome cars, but maintenance and rebuild costs are quite expensive. Sometimes I wonder if going to a simpler, G model aircooled would make those costs cheaper.

Khloesdad

Good luck finding a relatively cheap aircooled.

dgjks6

So I'm doing what you are not supposed to. I'm throwing parts at it.

$850 from FCP Euro for rotors and parts and a master cylinder.

$140 for hawk front ceramic pads from tire rack

$130 for hawk rear ceramic pads from THM?

I really really really debated about getting all cheap parts from rock auto. I could have done it all for less than $500. And I really believe that most brake failures and premature wear - are from installation not from part quality.

groovzilla

Rennpart is an excellent source for less expensive OEM Porsche Parts. They are an RL Sponsor

dgjks6

Thanks. Will have to check them out next time. I use FCP as much as possible. I'm trying to bankrupt them with their lifetime warranty.

RennPart

pull the plastics in the "frunk" and possibly also the frunk carpet, if it is soaked with brake fluid try to track it back.

Sorry to hear your issues! Hopefully they will be over soon.

dgjks6

Just an update. For $1150 I got all new pads, rotors, master cylinder, and fluid.

Step 1 - replace master cylinder. No problem.

Step 2 - do rear brakes, first the R then the L. Diagnose the problem. Rear inside pads on both sides were frozen on the guide pins. This led to the inner pads being worn unevenly and taking out the rotor. I probably didn't need a new master cylinder...

Step 3 - realize the rear rotors are directional. Go to inspect my work and hope I got lucky and out them on the correct sides.

Step 4 - go to bed and plan for swapping out the rotors over thanksgiving.

I wonder if this car will ever drive again? I now know how those cars you see on TV get put aside and sit with some minor repair for years.

MrMoose

Well, I'd need to see exactly what happened with the rear brakes, but I still think you likely had a problem with the MC. A stuck caliper / rotor wear issue wouldn't sneak up on you and cause sudden brake loss.

And with dual-circuit brakes you'd have to have serious issues at the calipers on both circuits simultaneously for the pedal to go completely to the floor. If one circuit goes out you'll have a long pedal but still be able to stop.

dgjks6

You just made me feel better. On the inside pads, the brake dust build up on the two big posts on the calipers that the pad slide one prevented the bottom of the pads from moving in or out so the pads were wearing unevenly. I had to pound the pads off and seriously clean and sand the posts to get the new pads to slide freely.