Engine oil viscosity
#3
Three Wheelin'
Highest I would run is a 5/50.
you should most likely run a 5/40
you should most likely run a 5/40
#4
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I wouldn't us a 10 cold viscosity oil. Driven DT40 (5w/40) or FR50 (5w50)
#5
Rennlist Member
He doesn’t have the car yet and he’s already asking for what oil to use to increase film strength. Now that’s a diligent planner! 😆
Last edited by Carreralicious; 10-18-2021 at 08:45 AM.
#6
#7
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It seems that big gap between first and second number is not good as well,even 0W sounds good for cold starts.
Listen at 4:18...
https://youtu.be/cYjcNos6MP4
Listen at 4:18...
https://youtu.be/cYjcNos6MP4
Unless you live where It gets really cold, 0 cold viscosity can be a bit too thin and 5 flows cold just fine. In SC I don't need a 0W oil and on the 2 days a year when it's 20 F I drive something else, like my pickup that also runs DT40
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#8
Instructor
Hey 911 Turbo, glad you took the advice from your prior thread(s) and started a discussion on engine oil. Your intellectual curiosity is a breath of fresh air. Other topics you may want to investigate are manual vs. Pdk vs. Tiptronic, pdk failures, engine oil change interval, best paint color, and whether or not the 997 is the last true 911.
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ewc (10-19-2021)
#9
Pro
Hey 911 Turbo, glad you took the advice from your prior thread(s) and started a discussion on engine oil. Your intellectual curiosity is a breath of fresh air. Other topics you may want to investigate are manual vs. Pdk vs. Tiptronic, pdk failures, engine oil change interval, best paint color, and whether or not the 997 is the last true 911.
#10
It might depend on your climate, if the car is garaged or not, and if you plan on driving it in cold weather regularly. 10W-60 sounds a bit too thick, and I have my doubts about the effectiveness and longevity of oils that have wide spreads in their stated viscosity (0W-40, 5W-50, etc.).
Barry "Baz" Hart of Hartec in the UK recommends 10W-50, specifically Millers CFS 10W-50 NT+, as these cars with the M96/M97 engines age and clearances increase. That is the route I chose to go last year. I just completed my third oil change with the Millers 10W-50 and am awaiting my 2nd UOA results with the Millers. The first UOA was great with 2,700 miles and 6 months on the oil. I extended the change interval to 3,500 miles and one year on the last change but am not anticipating greatly different results. There was absolutely no debris or metal flecks in the filter when I cut it open, and my car has been running great. I should have those results next week.
10W is still rated down to 0 degrees fahrenheit, far below any temperature I drive my car in. I live in CO, but primarily drive my car Spring through Fall. I'll drive my 911 in the Winter occasionally if the roads are clear on mild days, and my attached garage is insulated (although it is not heated) and rarely falls below 45 or 50 degrees.
From the research I've done, cold engine starts are not our greatest concern, but rather hot spots and oil sheering due to high temps, specifically in bank 2, cylinders 5 and 6. That is another reason why I opted to go with a 10W-50.
I personally have more peace of mind with the 10W-50 than I did with the 5W-40 Motul I was running previously. The UOA's were still pretty good with the Motul, but it was starting to sheer out of grade with less than 4k miles on the oil.
Not oil related, but if you have a 997.1, I would highly recommend a low-temp thermostat and possibly a 3rd radiator. There are plenty of threads here on the subject and why the low temp t-stat is arguably as important as changing your oil frequently with a high quality synthetic.
Barry "Baz" Hart of Hartec in the UK recommends 10W-50, specifically Millers CFS 10W-50 NT+, as these cars with the M96/M97 engines age and clearances increase. That is the route I chose to go last year. I just completed my third oil change with the Millers 10W-50 and am awaiting my 2nd UOA results with the Millers. The first UOA was great with 2,700 miles and 6 months on the oil. I extended the change interval to 3,500 miles and one year on the last change but am not anticipating greatly different results. There was absolutely no debris or metal flecks in the filter when I cut it open, and my car has been running great. I should have those results next week.
10W is still rated down to 0 degrees fahrenheit, far below any temperature I drive my car in. I live in CO, but primarily drive my car Spring through Fall. I'll drive my 911 in the Winter occasionally if the roads are clear on mild days, and my attached garage is insulated (although it is not heated) and rarely falls below 45 or 50 degrees.
From the research I've done, cold engine starts are not our greatest concern, but rather hot spots and oil sheering due to high temps, specifically in bank 2, cylinders 5 and 6. That is another reason why I opted to go with a 10W-50.
I personally have more peace of mind with the 10W-50 than I did with the 5W-40 Motul I was running previously. The UOA's were still pretty good with the Motul, but it was starting to sheer out of grade with less than 4k miles on the oil.
Not oil related, but if you have a 997.1, I would highly recommend a low-temp thermostat and possibly a 3rd radiator. There are plenty of threads here on the subject and why the low temp t-stat is arguably as important as changing your oil frequently with a high quality synthetic.
#11
Barry "Baz" Hart of Hartec in the UK recommends 10W-50, specifically Millers CFS 10W-50 NT+, as these cars with the M96/M97 engines age and clearances increase. That is the route I chose to go last year. I just completed my third oil change with the Millers 10W-50 and am awaiting my 2nd UOA results with the Millers. The first UOA was great with 2,700 miles and 6 months on the oil. I extended the change interval to 3,500 miles and one year on the last change but am not anticipating greatly different results. There was absolutely no debris or metal flecks in the filter when I cut it open, and my car has been running great. I should have those results next week.
From the research I've done, cold engine starts are not our greatest concern, but rather hot spots and oil sheering due to high temps, specifically in bank 2, cylinders 5 and 6. That is another reason why I opted to go with a 10W-50.
Not oil related, but if you have a 997.1, I would highly recommend a low-temp thermostat and possibly a 3rd radiator. There are plenty of threads here on the subject and why the low temp t-stat is arguably as important as changing your oil frequently with a high quality synthetic.
Where did you read that Baz said we have problems with hot spots?
Baz said that problem is in sh..it cheap materials (lukasil /alusil) .When LN engineering install nickies cylinder no problem any more...Porsche must reduce coasts because of financial problems
Last edited by ai2pz; 10-19-2021 at 12:57 PM.
#12
Three Wheelin'
Hey 911 Turbo, glad you took the advice from your prior thread(s) and started a discussion on engine oil. Your intellectual curiosity is a breath of fresh air. Other topics you may want to investigate are manual vs. Pdk vs. Tiptronic, pdk failures, engine oil change interval, best paint color, and whether or not the 997 is the last true 911.
#13
Porsche now sell a classic oil in 5w50 for the 996. It give you an idea of what they think should go in 20yo m96-97.
I've tryied a 50w oil and got about 265f oil temp at the track. I came back to the 0w40, now it max out at 250. It is holding fine for 10 track day and 5000km.
I've tryied a 50w oil and got about 265f oil temp at the track. I came back to the 0w40, now it max out at 250. It is holding fine for 10 track day and 5000km.
#14
Rennlist Member
The Millers oils are great. When I was testing oils years ago they performed just as well as the Driven oils. I've never run their 10w50 in an M96 engine, but I have run the 5w40 in several engines over the years and it held its viscosity well and UOAs produced low wear levels.
On the other hand, a 10w60 is too thick. I know of at least one failure on track and they were running an Accusump along with Castrol's 10w60.
On the other hand, a 10w60 is too thick. I know of at least one failure on track and they were running an Accusump along with Castrol's 10w60.
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Fullyield (10-20-2021)
#15
The Millers oils are great. When I was testing oils years ago they performed just as well as the Driven oils. I've never run their 10w50 in an M96 engine, but I have run the 5w40 in several engines over the years and it held its viscosity well and UOAs produced low wear levels.
On the other hand, a 10w60 is too thick. I know of at least one failure on track and they were running an Accusump along with Castrol's 10w60.
On the other hand, a 10w60 is too thick. I know of at least one failure on track and they were running an Accusump along with Castrol's 10w60.