PASM / Sport mode failure (possible DIY?)
#1
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Thread Starter
PASM / Sport mode failure (possible DIY?)
06 997 C4S. Intermittent PASM failure notice on dash and the car goes into the rough suspension mode when the PASM failure notice lights up. If you press sport mode during that time, the sport mode failure notice appears as well.
I took it to the indy and they replaced the ABS control module thinking that would fix based on their past experience. That did not work.
If I do not engage PASM or sport mode, the problem can go away for a day or two, but it does appear randomly. Sometimes 30 seconds into a drive. Sometimes 15 minutes. Sometimes a day or two later.
Any suggestions on how to diagnose, troubleshoot?
Thanks in advance for any help!
I took it to the indy and they replaced the ABS control module thinking that would fix based on their past experience. That did not work.
If I do not engage PASM or sport mode, the problem can go away for a day or two, but it does appear randomly. Sometimes 30 seconds into a drive. Sometimes 15 minutes. Sometimes a day or two later.
Any suggestions on how to diagnose, troubleshoot?
Thanks in advance for any help!
#2
Rennlist Member
How's the condition of your battery?
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8KaboveMSL (10-09-2021)
#4
Any bad or missing signal will cause the unit to go into safety mode ... no current and thus full hard.
Components fully fail or they work. There is no such thing as a good connection. Some are better than others, but none are good. And connections can become intermittent.
Always stay with the easy and cheap parts. You might have a broken wire to one of the struts, but that would be difficult to check. So instead start with the connector on the PASM control module that is tucked behind the carpet in the outside passenger's footwell. Unplug and plug that in several times. The sliding action will clean the pins. Then, if that doesn't work, go on to the next easiest component (3 axis accelerometer?).
The above is not all conclusive. For instance, heat can be an intermittent factor. But it is a start.
Components fully fail or they work. There is no such thing as a good connection. Some are better than others, but none are good. And connections can become intermittent.
Always stay with the easy and cheap parts. You might have a broken wire to one of the struts, but that would be difficult to check. So instead start with the connector on the PASM control module that is tucked behind the carpet in the outside passenger's footwell. Unplug and plug that in several times. The sliding action will clean the pins. Then, if that doesn't work, go on to the next easiest component (3 axis accelerometer?).
The above is not all conclusive. For instance, heat can be an intermittent factor. But it is a start.
#6
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
2009 C2S 175K miles
Original shocks or aftermarket? Was the subwoofer replaced with aftermarket speakers?
Go to the top of the struts and follow the wires... maybe something got pinches and shorted out over time. Each strut's cable is really a tail with a connector... check those connectors. For the rears, you need to pull off the subwoofer, and then another layer. There are DIYs out there.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Original shocks or aftermarket? Was the subwoofer replaced with aftermarket speakers?
Go to the top of the struts and follow the wires... maybe something got pinches and shorted out over time. Each strut's cable is really a tail with a connector... check those connectors. For the rears, you need to pull off the subwoofer, and then another layer. There are DIYs out there.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
#7
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Thread Starter
Happy to see you on this thread, Bruce.
Original shocks and OEM speakers. There was a radar detector installed by prior owner that may have been intergrated to some extent and also some bluetooth equipment as well. I have removed this equipment, but there could be some remnants I suppose.
I did not know I had subwoofer (no Bose). I will look into the DIYs.
Thanks so much.
Original shocks and OEM speakers. There was a radar detector installed by prior owner that may have been intergrated to some extent and also some bluetooth equipment as well. I have removed this equipment, but there could be some remnants I suppose.
I did not know I had subwoofer (no Bose). I will look into the DIYs.
Thanks so much.
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#8
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Any bad or missing signal will cause the unit to go into safety mode ... no current and thus full hard.
Components fully fail or they work. There is no such thing as a good connection. Some are better than others, but none are good. And connections can become intermittent.
Always stay with the easy and cheap parts. You might have a broken wire to one of the struts, but that would be difficult to check. So instead start with the connector on the PASM control module that is tucked behind the carpet in the outside passenger's footwell. Unplug and plug that in several times. The sliding action will clean the pins. Then, if that doesn't work, go on to the next easiest component (3 axis accelerometer?).
The above is not all conclusive. For instance, heat can be an intermittent factor. But it is a start.
Components fully fail or they work. There is no such thing as a good connection. Some are better than others, but none are good. And connections can become intermittent.
Always stay with the easy and cheap parts. You might have a broken wire to one of the struts, but that would be difficult to check. So instead start with the connector on the PASM control module that is tucked behind the carpet in the outside passenger's footwell. Unplug and plug that in several times. The sliding action will clean the pins. Then, if that doesn't work, go on to the next easiest component (3 axis accelerometer?).
The above is not all conclusive. For instance, heat can be an intermittent factor. But it is a start.
The other thing to check is all the shock wire connectors at the front. Follow the wires out of the top of the struts and trace them to their connectors. Supposedly they have to only be plugged together one way even through they fit either way. Don't mix up the orintsrionnof the plugs as you disconnect and reconnect them. Also examine the wire where it comes out of the strut if it's wornright there it could be shorting out which would explain the rendomness of the failure time.
The back ones are harder to check as you have to remove the seatbacks and subwoofer. Not hard to do, just working on that cramped back seat area.
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8KaboveMSL (10-09-2021)
#9
Rennlist Member
@dandaman19 maybe worth going through the reset process with the battery as well. I had similar issue after battery drained once and after charging the battery back up, I disconnected it for 10 mins and reconnected it. The PASM errors cleared up and never returned. If your looking for low effort/simple things to try first it may be worth giving that a go. The batteries on these things can cause all sorts of random issues if they aren’t close to perfect.
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dandaman19 (10-09-2021)
#10
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Thread Starter
Update: unplugged control module, cleaned connections, and traced all wiring from struts to connections (one zip tie for rear strut was a little tight, so I pulled the wire past that point). All looks good. Error still remains. What’s the next step for troubleshooting?
#11
When this happened to me, I pulled the codes and it showed the my front acceleration sensor wasn't responding. Replaced that sensors with a new one and the problem went away.
Have you pulled the codes to see if there's any indication to what's erroring?
Have you pulled the codes to see if there's any indication to what's erroring?