Snakebit

So from your earlier picture, I can't tell but shouldn't the surface the red arrow points to come in contact before the surface the yellow arrow points to?
What I mean is the yellow surface is the very bottom of the channel but the red is the "claw" that rotates when the Dring pushes it downward?

YT61MH

Thanks again. I think maybe what's best is if I take a video of it tomorrow.

Petza914

Take the tip of a screwdriver and push where the red arrow is. See if She latch will rotate and catch. This takes the D ring bottoming out too early out of the equation and just tests the mechanical aspect of the latch. If it will catch, then actuate the sill.switch again and see if it releases. If so, try the D ring again.

YT61MH

Thanks. I have tried that and it didn't catch but can try again.

YT61MH

Update: took the car to my OPC who spent 10 mins poking around. They can't be sure without doing more diagnostics / swapping parts over, but they think it's the lock/catch inside the rear lid. Rather annoyingly, I've got the car home and now the catch seems to be in the locked position (I can't push the D ring into it anymore).

They also said that my emergency release doesn't look like it's fitted right.

So, my thinking is that I may try to replace the latch and fit the emergency release again myself. Is this a difficult job or something the average Joe should be able to do?

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BLU997

For a working example, open frunk, remove plastic surrounds, use your engine hatch D ring in the frunk hatch, lock and release a dozen or so times using the key fob and the frunk emergency cable. Study the operation very carefully then transfer your newly acquired latch knowledge to the rear latch to trouble shoot and repair.