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first time hearing about it, didn't know it was a "mod" people did. I thought the switch was just there for starting the car when the clutch pedal is in. thanks for reply
That's a different switch. The upper switch is the depress clutch pedal to start switch and the one that cancels cruise control - don't mess with that one.
The lower one on the clutch arm is the one we're talking about.
I've played around with the Sprint Booster 3 and the clutch nanny switch mod a bit now and here is what I found:
Modified clutch switch and without Sprint Booster = improved throttle feel and 'normal manual' stop/go and hill starts
Modifying the nanny switch to think the clutch is never pressed improves the throttle response by eliminating the slight delay in clutch/throttle between shifts. However, the responsiveness improvement is only right after you shift, if you are already post shift and then dance the throttle, the responsiveness is no different than sans mod. Overall, the car now drives like a normal manual and feels great and I ran it like this for about a month with no issues (or stalls) before installing Sprint Booster. Bottom line, even without the Sprint Booster, the switch mod is a great improvement to the cars throttle feel. (Note that .2 cars will get a dash error when doing the switch mod)
Modified clutch switch + Sprint Booster = AMAZING throttle responsiveness but harder stop/go and hill starts
The throttle response is amazing in sport mode 9 and turns into a monster in race mode 9. Race mode 9 makes the car feel like an animal with the backend squirreling and I love it. The only challenge was from a stop I was getting really inconsistent pull aways. I'm not over here drag racing, but each 1st gear start was a fight to find the right RPM. Because of this, I couldn't daily in race mode 9, and instead I ran for about a week with sport mode 9. Still, starts were messy.
Normal clutch switch + Sprint Booster = way subdued compared to switch mod + Sprint Booster
This is the setup I think most everyone with a 997 + Sprint Booster will be running and I've been running it for the last week. It honestly feels great, but only whencomparing to full stock. The responsiveness is REALLY delayed when comparing to switch mod + Sprint Booster. To the point where starting is no harder than full stock, it feels very similar, even in race mode. It honestly feels even less responsive than sport mode 9 than when you have the switch mod. That initial second of throttle delay after each shift is still present, regardless of which Sprint Booster mode used. The delay can be easy to miss when you're used to it, but running Sprint Booster + mod/no mod back to back makes the difference very obvious.
I really like the mod switch + Sprint Booster feel AND I want the option to have consistent starts in stop/go traffic, so I'm going to add a switch that toggles between 'normal clutch switch mode' and 'switch delete'. This will give me the best of both worlds. I know all the info I shared isn't just about the Sprint Booster, but hopefully this info is helpful to someone else who dove down the throttle responsiveness rabbit hole.
Tape over this switch if you want to temporarily test it out. The switch should no longer extend after you tape it. I took a quick video that shows you how to locate the switch and demonstrates its normal movement. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qtm...ew?usp=sharing
Thanks for taking the time to test that out and write up your thoughts. Very interesting. I am going to try out the quick tape test to see how I like it with the switch mod.
I'm doing the taped off switch test. Interesting to get used to the car without that interference on hill starts. I just saw this switch for sale randomly and it was described as the "clutch cruise control cut" switch...
I'm doing the taped off switch test. Interesting to get used to the car without that interference on hill starts. I just saw this switch for sale randomly and it was described as the "clutch cruise control cut" switch...
The switch we're taping off here is not linked to the cruise control, nor the depress clutch to be able to start the car switch. Those are both functions of the one that's higher up. If you tape or a switch and the car will start without you pushing in the clutch, you've bypassed the wrong switch.
The switch we're taping off here is not linked to the cruise control, nor the depress clutch to be able to start the car switch. Those are both functions of the one that's higher up. If you tape or a switch and the car will start without you pushing in the clutch, you've bypassed the wrong switch.
Aha, makes sense. The picture used showed the lower switch, and it makes much more sense that cruise/start control would be linked.