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With that being said, I'm curious how many bore scopes are being done on higher mileage cars and not seeing some type of scoring. Anyone have a borescope done on a 100k or more mile car?
With that being said, I'm curious how many bore scopes are being done on higher mileage cars and not seeing some type of scoring. Anyone have a borescope done on a 100k or more mile car?
i just bought a 128k mile 2006 C2S with no PPI.
happy to go get it checked and provide details for the community if we can get a fund started
With that being said, I'm curious how many bore scopes are being done on higher mileage cars and not seeing some type of scoring. Anyone have a borescope done on a 100k or more mile car?
Likely not many, as they're out driving their cars and we're here worrying about bore scoring.
Just last week, someone posted asking about chain tensioners on their 997.1 with 172k miles on it. There are plenty of high-mileage 997.1 out in the wild, we just hear about the ones with problems.
I suspect a lot of people are passing on otherwise good cars because a PPI and bore scope depict images like the ones you and I posted. As Petza mentioned, I beleive many of these cars have or will exhibit scuffing in the cylinders, but it's anyone's guess as to how many and when they will develop full-on bore scoring.
With all that said, you'll find a great car. Just keep looking and be patient. I suspect the market will soften just a bit as we head into the winter months. Good luck.
happy to go get it checked and provide details for the community if we can get a fund started
I’m not sure I want to know the answer...
My thoughts exactly. At this point, why bother? You're just going to create worry and concern. If your car isn't exhibiting any of the bore scoring symptoms (sooty exhaust pipe(s), ticking sound, increased oil consumption, bad UOA results, etc.), I wouldn't go through the effort of looking for a problem.
My advice would be to change the oil frequently, let the car warm up properly, throw in a low-temp T-stat when you can, drive and enjoy.
Petza, thanks for sharing this. I remember reading that you found the early stages of scuffing in one of your cylinders. Was the picture you took from the bottom of the cylinder with the sump dropped?
I also agree that a thicker oil is probably a good idea. I switched to Millers CFS NT+ 10W-50 this Spring and will likely continue to use it pending my UOA results when I change the oil again this Fall.
Yes, that's the bottom of my #6 from the sump side. I'm not sure I'd run a 10W oil. You want the thinner initial flow, then you want a bit thicker at the higher temp range for the protection. Maybe if it's never below 30F where you live, that's OK, but the reason I went to the specific 5W/50 I chose was for my reasoning above.
As a purchaser Its better to have the results from the test, than not have the results, and assume that its fine.
Doing that, you end up like the guy that bought Deezy's Targa, and you have a failure before you get the car back home.. Then you are disappointed, and disgusted. He won't see his car again till July of 2021, since it's stirring here in queue to be built. Yes, not only did it fail, but it also had bore scoring that would have been very apparent with any level of invasive PPI. That's all the buyer's fault, and he knows that..
At least, if you decide to buy a car that has scoring, you know exactly what you are getting into, before you stroke the check.
Yes, that's the bottom of my #6 from the sump side. I'm not sure I'd run a 10W oil. You want the thinner initial flow, then you want a bit thicker at the higher temp range for the protection. Maybe if it's never below 30F where you live, that's OK, but the reason I went to the specific 5W/50 I chose was for my reasoning above.
Thanks for the clarification.
Regarding the 10W-50 oil, I chose that oil and weight based on a recommendation from "Baz". My last UOA from Speediagnostix indicated that my viscosity was low with only 3,500 miles on Motul Xcess 5W-40. I live in Colorado, but I run summer tires year-round and only drive my 911 in the winter when A) the roads are clear and B) it's above 40F, ideally 50F. So I am never starting my car anywhere near the low end (0 degrees Fahrenheit) of the 10W temp range limitation. I rely on my trusty V8 4Runner for cold days and snowy roads.
So is a 50 weight oil really the way to go on these motors? It’s interesting the LN Website suggest 50 weight for the 996 platform but not the 997. Is it due to the motor split?
It was Charles & Jake that recommended my move to the FR50 oil based on the scuffing I found and my manometer readings to prolong the life of this engine since I can't afford to rebuild it currently and it doesn't have any driving symptoms of the scuffing, although having 100 extra HP could certainly mask some performance symptoms. I actually haven't driven the car since last October and it's been apart to some degree since March.
It was Charles & Jake that recommended my move to the FR50 oil based on the scuffing I found and my manometer readings to prolong the life of this engine since I can't afford to rebuild it currently and it doesn't have any driving symptoms of the scuffing, although having 100 extra HP could certainly mask some performance symptoms. I actually haven't driven the car since last October and it's been apart to some degree since March.
That was for YOUR scenario, and was driven by the Supercharger being fitted, as well.
This is why I hate making recommendations for anything, to anyone, in any circumstance.
No, it's not my car motor. It's actually a 928 from a member here who had early stages of bore scoring so it's not only 997's as most tend to think.
Cayennes have quite a bit of scoring happening too, especially the older versions, and 2008 v8s more than any other year before the cylinder honing process was changed for 2009.
That was for YOUR scenario, and was driven by the Supercharger being fitted, as well.
This is why I hate making recommendations for anything, to anyone, in any circumstance.
OK. Thanks. Got it. Is it the lower compression from the supercharger modification that makes this a better fit for me but not a normal 997 motor or for some other reason?
Thanks everyone, I ended up going on a limb on a 99 996 listed on Autotrader in Long Beach to be pleasantly surprised to find out the owner of the car is the owner of Rasant. Fresh complete engine rebuild (with LN bearing), Ohlins, gundo hack, clutch/brakes/AOS/etc... should mean that I have a cheap, good drivers car to hold me over for a few years until I can splurge on a no-holds-barred aircooled build.
09-16-2020, 12:47 PM
