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Mine made the exact same sound and symptoms thank goodness we both have cars made in 2006 moving forward ..... One model year earlier and this job would have been much longer and painful to complete. All good now purring like a kitten ...
When oil temp is warmed up and hot 0.8 - 1.0 oil pressure at idle is about normal. Then the oil pressure should follow your rpms so that at 3000 rpm you will be at a 3 for oil pressure. 4000 rpm should read about 4 for the oil pressure as well.
Glad you got the AOS replaced. Great job! Hope this solves all the issues you were having.
Driving home today I began observing the oil pressure about 15 minutes in on the freeway. Temp was slightly below the hashmark in between 200 and 250. I was in 6th gear coasting about 70’s right below 3k RPM and I found the pressure floating between 4-4.5.
I took my exit and at the first stop light, the idle was around 2-2.5
In my garage idling I watched it again hover around 2’s and weirdly shoot up almost to 4 a couple times. Definitely wasn’t sitting at the .08-1.0 you mention above.
I assume this isn’t “normal”? Car is an 07 S, just passed 110k. Bad sender? or another component related to the pressure system?
Afterward I went to the back and was easily able to unscrew the oil filler cap and remove it. The engine idle got a little rough and I could hear the hissing noise emitting. Placed the cap back on and tightened. Idle went back to smooth and normal and the hiss went away. Seems like the AOS is operating properly.
I have never had any engine lights or oil-related warning messages show up.
The lights on my dash are from dead TPMS sensors, air bag and my side markers up front have white LED bulbs installed.
Last edited by ShaunPerry; Oct 7, 2020 at 05:12 AM.
I read almost every thread on oil pressure I think, thats bad wire connection or a bad sender. Anyway its a very easy fix. It shouldn't fluctuate like that.
When oil temp is warmed up and hot 0.8 - 1.0 oil pressure at idle is about normal. Then the oil pressure should follow your rpms so that at 3000 rpm you will be at a 3 for oil pressure. 4000 rpm should read about 4 for the oil pressure as well.
Glad you got the AOS replaced. Great job! Hope this solves all the issues you were having.
Thank you. Do you think its normal 0.8 - 1.0 at 100 degrees celsius oil at idle ? I saw many pictures of 997.1s where people had 1.5 - 2. I know that an engine doesn't need much pressure at idle, but I would be more comfortable having it higher.
997.2 is different as the oil pump isn't speed dependent.
Originally Posted by rileyracing1
Mine made the exact same sound and symptoms thank goodness we both have cars made in 2006 moving forward ..... One model year earlier and this job would have been much longer and painful to complete. All good now purring like a kitten ...
I know that on non-S cars is far more difficult, but on my car it was pretty simple. I found that mounting the two tubes between the intakes was the most challenging part. I bet that a skilled mechanic can change the AOS in less that 2 hours.
Can't compare it to my BMW e90, that was a PITA.
Originally Posted by ShaunPerry
Hope you get everything situated OP. This makes me want to test my oil filler cap when I get home in the garage later today
What is considered normal for oil pressure readings? At cold start, warm idle, freeway steady 65mph-70mph etc. I'm just curious.
I get these readings, but I suspect I'm a bit low on oil pressure.
Idle cold : 5 bar
70C (160F) : 2 bar (or a bit higher)
90C (200F) : 1 bar (or just a little bit higher)
100C (210F) : 0.8 bar
I dont know at 110C (220) because weather is colder now and it didn't get that hot. But I believe it will get lower, maybe 0.5 ?
But if I rev it up, pressure builds up quickly. As stated above, it follows the rpm or even higher.
AOS had a small influence on the pressure, not as big as I hoped. I will put a manometer on the oil pressure to see whats real. Gauge can be off too, as the idle shows almost 800 rpm, but my diagnose shows 740 rpm.
Last edited by madonion48; Oct 7, 2020 at 05:52 AM.
Mine made the exact same sound and symptoms thank goodness we both have cars made in 2006 moving forward ..... One model year earlier and this job would have been much longer and painful to complete. All good now purring like a kitten ...
Why do you say this? The 05 S has the same M97 motor as the 06, 07, and 08 S. 04 may have been different being an M96 engine.
For the first 15-20 minutes of driving and while my car is warming up my oil pressure will read higher levels. For example, when cold , at 3000 rpm the pressure will be between 4-5 oil pressure. This only lasts while the oil temp is cold and still warming up. Once I hit 200+ fahrenheit for a few minutes my oil pressure will begin to line up more closely with my engine rpms.
Madonion48. For a scenario like 200+ temp and 2-3 oil temp at idle seems high to me. What Oil viscosity are you using?? I think @Petza914 recently changed out his oil pressure sensor. Maybe he can chime in what prompted him to swap it out and how hard it was.
For the first 15-20 minutes of driving and while my car is warming up my oil pressure will read higher levels. For example, when cold , at 3000 rpm the pressure will be between 4-5 oil pressure. This only lasts while the oil temp is cold and still warming up. Once I hit 200+ fahrenheit for a few minutes my oil pressure will begin to line up more closely with my engine rpms.
Madonion48. For a scenario like 200+ temp and 2-3 oil temp at idle seems high to me. What Oil viscosity are you using?? I think @Petza914 recently changed out his oil pressure sensor. Maybe he can chime in what prompted him to swap it out and how hard it was.
I changed mine because with the engine not running and the gauges energized, my oil pressure was reading about 2, not zero like it should. I always had excellent oil pressure because of this since I assume the sender was always reading about 2 higher than the true oil pressure. Wife's is doing the same thing. Will change hers when I do here next oil change as well.
Changing it is not very difficult as long as you have a crow foot wrench for a socket. Make sure you loosen the sender by the nut underneath the canister and not by turning the canister itself - reinstallation the same. On an M97 engine the sender is on the right side of bank 2 toward the front of the engine bay.
Thank you. Do you think its normal 0.8 - 1.0 at 100 degrees celsius oil at idle ? I saw many pictures of 997.1s where people had 1.5 - 2. I know that an engine doesn't need much pressure at idle, but I would be more comfortable having it higher.
997.2 is different as the oil pump isn't speed dependent.
I know that on non-S cars is far more difficult, but on my car it was pretty simple. I found that mounting the two tubes between the intakes was the most challenging part. I bet that a skilled mechanic can change the AOS in less that 2 hours.
Can't compare it to my BMW e90, that was a PITA.
I get these readings, but I suspect I'm a bit low on oil pressure.
Idle cold : 5 bar
70C (160F) : 2 bar (or a bit higher)
90C (200F) : 1 bar (or just a little bit higher)
100C (210F) : 0.8 bar
I dont know at 110C (220) because weather is colder now and it didn't get that hot. But I believe it will get lower, maybe 0.5 ?
But if I rev it up, pressure builds up quickly. As stated above, it follows the rpm or even higher.
AOS had a small influence on the pressure, not as big as I hoped. I will put a manometer on the oil pressure to see whats real. Gauge can be off too, as the idle shows almost 800 rpm, but my diagnose shows 740 rpm.
Great work getting that AOS fixed. As for your oil pressure, I agree, I like to see a bit higher pressure than 0.8 at 100 because at 110 it could be even lower. As you are aware, the pressure is directly related to temp and engine speed, so even a 50 RPM difference can yield a change in pressure.
For the first 15-20 minutes of driving and while my car is warming up my oil pressure will read higher levels. For example, when cold , at 3000 rpm the pressure will be between 4-5 oil pressure. This only lasts while the oil temp is cold and still warming up. Once I hit 200+ fahrenheit for a few minutes my oil pressure will begin to line up more closely with my engine rpms.
Madonion48. For a scenario like 200+ temp and 2-3 oil temp at idle seems high to me. What Oil viscosity are you using?? I think @Petza914 recently changed out his oil pressure sensor. Maybe he can chime in what prompted him to swap it out and how hard it was.
I'm not quite following, I think you refer to @ShaunPerry's post. But his pressure is most certain due to an faulty sender. I have 0.8 at 100 Celsius oil and you were saying that 0.8 or 1 is about right.
I did change the oil pressure sender and it didn't solve the problem.
Originally Posted by Petza914
I changed mine because with the engine not running and the gauges energized, my oil pressure was reading about 2, not zero like it should. I always had excellent oil pressure because of this since I assume the sender was always reading about 2 higher than the true oil pressure. Wife's is doing the same thing. Will change hers when I do here next oil change as well.
Changing it is not very difficult as long as you have a crow foot wrench for a socket. Make sure you loosen the sender by the nut underneath the canister and not by turning the canister itself - reinstallation the same. On an M97 engine the sender is on the right side of bank 2 toward the front of the engine bay.
Mine is dead on zero while in accessory mode. Btw, I changed the oil pressure exactly the same way, from the engine compartment, only I had to cut and weld a 19 wrench to an extension. Crow foot wrench is a mistery where I live.
Originally Posted by Mike Murphy
Great work getting that AOS fixed. As for your oil pressure, I agree, I like to see a bit higher pressure than 0.8 at 100 because at 110 it could be even lower. As you are aware, the pressure is directly related to temp and engine speed, so even a 50 RPM difference can yield a change in pressure.
What oil brand and weight are you using?
Thanks ! You are right, even 50 rpm can make a change. But from 0.8 to 1.5 at least is a long way ..
Car had only Mobil 1 0w40 changed at 5k, but when I bought it I switched to Castrol 5w40. I feel that if the engine is sane, it should produce a decent amount of pressure with any oil, no matter how crappy it is (ofc with the right viscosity for that car). I plan on going back to Mobil 1 0w40, but this time I bought oil from Western Europe, because oil produced for Eastern Europe is of lower quality.
Last edited by madonion48; Oct 7, 2020 at 03:29 PM.
I'm not quite following, I think you refer to @ShaunPerry's post. But his pressure is most certain due to an faulty sender. I have 0.8 at 110 Celsius oil and you were saying that 0.8 or 1 is about right.
I did change the oil pressure sender and it didn't solve the problem.
Mine is dead on zero while in accessory mode. Btw, I changed the oil pressure exactly the same way, from the engine compartment, only I had to cut and weld a 19 wrench to an extension. Crow foot wrench is a mistery where I live.
Thanks ! You are right, even 50 rpm can make a change. But from 0.8 to 1.5 at least is a long way ..
Car had only Mobil 1 0w40 changed at 5k, but when I bought it I switched to Castrol 5w40. I feel that if the engine is sane, it should produce a decent amount of pressure with any oil, no matter how crappy it is (ofc with the right viscosity for that car). I plan on going back to Mobil 1 0w40, but this time I bought oil from Western Europe, because oil produced for Eastern Europe is of lower quality.
Mobil 1 0-40 is more like a 30w oil after its seen some miles. So I would pick the thickest 40w oil you can find. It might only make a 0.2-0.5 difference, but it’s better than nothing. What about a 50w oil? Is that certified for your car?
I changed mine because with the engine not running and the gauges energized, my oil pressure was reading about 2, not zero like it should. I always had excellent oil pressure because of this since I assume the sender was always reading about 2 higher than the true oil pressure. Wife's is doing the same thing. Will change hers when I do here next oil change as well.
Changing it is not very difficult as long as you have a crow foot wrench for a socket. Make sure you loosen the sender by the nut underneath the canister and not by turning the canister itself - reinstallation the same. On an M97 engine the sender is on the right side of bank 2 toward the front of the engine bay.
Great photos... What size crow foot wrench socket?
found this video. If the space is too tight to get the wrench in because of the intake manifold, it looks like you can reach it and loosen it from the bottom of the car. Then twist it off with your hands from the top side.
Mobil 1 0-40 is more like a 30w oil after its seen some miles. So I would pick the thickest 40w oil you can find. It might only make a 0.2-0.5 difference, but it’s better than nothing. What about a 50w oil? Is that certified for your car?
I can go 5w50, its approved.
But I’ll check the pressure with a manometer, just to convince myself that it’s the real pressure.
@qikqbn
crow foot is 19. You have plenty of space from the engine compartment. It’s far more easy than removing the coil shield and accessing from underneath.
Last edited by madonion48; Oct 7, 2020 at 03:37 PM.
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