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Thanks for the offer, my new QuickJack has been awesome. Not the same as a two or four-post, but I'm happy.

I was curious about the salt/corrosion you've experienced. I'm in VT so same situation.

The center ones are fine for me as I had the dealer install PSE before taking delivery. Thank God for small favors.

Thx!

Bob

 

Drive fairly regularly on the winter. Inspect the underside of the car like a hawk. The only corrosion is

The cover thing everyone complains about
Exhaust bolts
Jack points (the rust proofing got damaged when the car got lifted at one point in its life.

The studs for the manifolds that face downward still look great.

My heat shields and bolts looked great

 

One other question to this esteemed and very experienced group...

In reading the threads (thanks again, @TheTorch and @Bruce In Philly) I've seen bolt sizes of M8 (about 1ŧ") and M7s. Does anyone know what size they should be before I order copper compound or titanium bolts?

Thanks!

Bob ×

 

M8 x 30

 

They are M8 1.25.
I ordered copper plated nuts for the cat bolts and the exhaust clamps.

I would also recommend the use of a copper-based anti-seize when you put everything back together. I used the Liqui Moly LM 508 product. It's effective with temps up to 2200 degrees F. so it's made for this purpose.


Titanium, although resistant to corrosion, is susceptible to galling (as is stainless.)

I would go with the combination of stainless bolts and copper-plated nuts - again using the Liqui Moly LM 508 copper-based anti-seize during the reassembly.
I just did that with the installation of my Fister mufflers and Sharkwerks unit.

 

@TheTorch and @Ironman88 that is soooo helpful. Thank you both!

Ironman, I will follow your lead to a T. Do you remember where you got your copper plated kit, meaning hardware?

1,000 thx!

Bob × ×

 

You may check around locally. I got mine from Amazon - but they were not cheap (I think the minimum quantity was 25 units of each type - I used flange nuts for the exhaust clamps. The minimum quantity was what drove the cost up.)

The Liqui Moly product is really great stuff and should make a huge difference later on when you need to remove the mufflers (spark plug change for example.)

Good luck with the rest of the project.

 

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Huge thanks, Ironman.

Will likely get to in another week as family obligations this weekend, and it will give me time to find the right hardware.

Thx!

Bob

 

Good question - I'm not sure but I believe muffler and all other parts were present and in place when I was able to look up at the heat shields to inspect them when my car was on lift in shop.
**Another issue with cold climate/snow/salt road cars are the brake sensors. They can become hard to remove and basically get welded to the calipers. I would check on those too.
My old 997 C4S needed a new caliper due to the old sensor being welded and not removable.

 

My heat shields were rusty but I stuck them back o as I did not have them and mine is a DD. I need to order some and install. What a pain, but thanks for the reminder.

 

I have a very nice used pair of 996/997 Coil Heat Shields I never used.
Here are some photos - If you want them they are yours - Just pay the shipping
Send a PM is you want them

 

Thanks so much for the thought Groovzilla. Turns out these won't work on a 997.2. I do appreciate the offer!

 

They showed as direct replacements for 996/997 so figured they would work for the 997.2
All the best.

 

VT Blue ---> If you find your Coil Heat Shields rusted I'm happy to give you the pair I have saved in my garage. They are used but in very good-excellent condition.
*I see in your Signature you perhaps have 2011 997?? which is 997.2? These will fit on 996 and 997.1 engines. (Not 997.2)
Just PM me if you have 997.1 and in need of them
Good luck removing the bolts!

 

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@groovzilla thanks so much for the generous offer. Unfortunately, I have a 997.2 as well, so will have to pass.

Thank you, though, just the same.

Bob