Ha! I'm down in the "Banana Belt" (Putney/Brattleboro area) though you hail from a beautiful area up north.

And your appreciation for one of Kubrick's finest means a ton -- clearly a man of good taste.

Cheers and thanks, Torch!

Bob

 

2009 C2S 157K

You can remove that aluminum bumper bar.... then you will have full access... no big deal. Regarding the bolts.... break them off... get medieval on them. My buddy helped me with my Sharkwerks install... he used a grinder and it took a whole 3 seconds to grind them flat against the flange. Some of them just torqued off... maybe just try a vice grip and twist.. or a chisel and hammer. The remaining stud is just pressed in so with a punch, pound it out.... Again, aggression works. We then ran up to Home Depot and purchased some stainless bolts and nuts.

Here was my thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ut-issues.html

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

Bruce, thanks so much -- exactly what I wanted/was hoping to hear. Will see if the Dremel is cut out for the job (no pun intended) or if I need a 'real' grinder, which might be handy to have anyway.

Yes, stainless will replace what's there, of that there is no doubt.

Thanks for the link, too.

Bob

 

Use heat and do this to get the top bolts.

 

Thanks, RTL.

I have zero experience and no tools when it comes to using heat, so I am admittedly a bit chicken and might have to leave that as a last resort for now.

Will likely attack with a grinder, punch and small weapons next.

Thx!

Bob

 

Go buy a MAPP gas torch with remote from home depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzoma...50KC/203391035 worth every penny, been using it for 10 years. Without heat on exhaust bolt you will simply break them every single time. You can have some success with sprays (such as aerokroil) and old school techniques (light tighten then loosen) but probability is not in your favor. Heat works almost 100% of the time.

 

+1. You just want to make sure you only heat the bolt area. The MAPP gas should have an adjustment so that you can concentrate the heat in only one small area. Do not burn anything else, do not use full open so that the flame can touch other parts of the car. Since it’s exhaust, you should be OK, as exhaust parts are used to getting hot. Get that bolt nice and red hot, then loosen it. An inexpensive MAPP torch can get to 2100F pretty easily.

Also, get yourself some gloves that are meant for wood burning fireplaces - the ones that go halfway up your arms. I love mine for being able to pick up burning hot wood or hot items for up to 10 seconds. In case the bolt or something else hot falls and/or you need to grab it for a second. Otherwise, it hits the floor and should be fine (if concrete).

 

Thanks @rtl5009 and @Mike Murphy , that's a great start in my education on using heat.

Hugely appreciated.

Bob

 

Agree with Bruce. When I removed the bumper and aluminum piece, I was able to hit all bolts with socket and extensions.

 

I am a ninth generation Northeast Kingdom RedNeck with both my parents planted in the Danville Green Cemetery! Like many retired Vermonters, had to bail out to Florida and North Carolina as Vermont is out of control with taxes and Bernie!

 

Very cool, @Hilltopper !! You were waaaay up north, with @TheTorch .

I have to say that I fit in like a square peg amidst a bunch of round holes. And the tax situation may indeed help push us out. It's a beautiful state, and I love the low-density population, but even Maine has a much, much better tax situation than VT. That may be my next stop.

Bob

 

As a Hilltopper, I bet you know where I played football!

 

WKU?

If so, when were you there? I know a Brit who went there and was a decathlete for the UK in the Olympics.

Bob

 

Such a beautiful part of the country. Land of my ancestors (Ira and Ethan Allen)...

 

Are you related to Barbara Allen Marshall, who passed away a couple years ago in Bedford, MA? My old neighbor. She was also a descendent. Terrific person.