dgjks6

I bought spacers for the front and back. OEM used up front. Just polished the wheels and the lugs nuts. New set came with new lug nuts. Anyway, stripped the rotor screw trying to get it out. It was 10 pm last night and I figured by 10:15 I would have them on. At 10:15 I was back to square one blaming my kids, wife, and dog.

cwheeler

The joys of wrenching. And to think, we (I) do this to relax!!!

Lol. You'll get it.

Cw.

Bruce In Philly

2009 C2S 154K

Yep, happened to me earlier this week..... fortunately, I have a bag of them handy as this is very common. Had to drill out the old one. It happens and is so common, that... well, you need a bag of 'em. Good news is dealers have boxes of them. The proper tool for removing them is an impact screwdriver.... I own one and didn't use it. But looking back, I think it is just as easy to keep a bag of them and drill out the screws when they strip. It is just that fast and easy. This time, I put a touch of anti-seize on the screw hats (not the threads).

Peace
Bruce in Philly

This guy has a great tip! Use valve grinding compound on the screw driver tip... never heard of this...

dgjks6

Got it. Ordered an impact driver. Went to Home Depot and got a screw extractor. Lots of drilling and swearing later all is good. I need longer bolts for the spacers. The new rear spacers come with stainless bolts. Think I'm going to go to the Dept and get some

The problem is I got the stripped one out and SHOULD wait for the impact driver for the rest. But I can't. I have to get it done today.

rtl5009

Heat is your friend on those. And pro tip on reinstall. If you use a wheel stud for alignment you don’t even need them.

shyamvenky

Glad you got it all figured out. An impact screw driver is a useful tool to have - I almost rounded the rotor screw when I did the brakes last year Thankfully I had already bought a new set of screws.
But I had a tougher time with the brake pad damper shim - it just wouldn't come off - it got really bent, and with more force, the piston boot popped out, along with some brake fluid, and allowed all the air in the garage into the brake system
I too got into a spiral of blaming everything and everyone around me I was able to fix the thing the next day.. ordered a Motive bleeder to get rid of the air..

Yes, It is really funny how we take up DIY jobs in the name of relaxation and end up getting frustrated

Floyd540

If you have ever worked on aluminum motorcycle engines,(successfully), you will have an impact driver in your tool box. If you do not have one, borrow one from the motorcycle guy in your neighborhood. Snap-on or Mac are the very best, even if you can find a really old one for sale. Harbor Freight has a cheap one that does a pretty good job on easy stuff like the rotor screws. Two rules I use when it comes to Philips head screws is to 1) go straight to the impact driver, not a screwdriver, 2 ) use the Big hammer, you do not need to hit it really hard ,but start with a good wack. The heavy weight of hammer is your friend. This is a 100% process for success and only takes a few seconds to accomplish. Don't forget to use the correct size Philips bit as there are 3 or 4 different ones. I keep my impact driver in the same drawer as the screwdrivers so it is easy to get to. No need to learn the hard way. Besides the impact driver makes a nice big fat handled "screwdriver " anyway. My 50 year old Snap-on has started to mushroom on the end from getting screws and bolts out of aluminum car, boat and bike parts.

dgjks6

Thanks for all the advice. Orders the tekton impact screwdriver and am waiting patiently. Just because the first come out with the screw extractor does not mean the rest will

Oh well

And I do have the post for the tire install, but without the screws in the OEM spacer wiggles a little around the bolt holes. Was worried if I didn't use the screw would maybe get a vibration?

rtl5009

haha you won’t get a vibration! The rotor is held on the same way. Smashed between the wheel and the hub with the lug nuts. That screw literally does nothing but help alignment.

cdk4219

Do you have to remove the rotor screw to install wheel spacers? Do you have lug nuts on your car with wheel studs? I am confused.

dgjks6

I read the screws were just used from the factory to hold the rotor until the got the caliper on and you really don't need them after the initial build.

Anyway. Put one on without removing the other screw. When I saw how thin the 5mm spacers were I thought there was no way you could tell after install but it makes a huge difference. I got 10's for the rear. I can go into why later. But I hope they are not too wide.

Also, not a fan of black bolts

I tried to take pictures but you can't tell in the pics.

C4SDayton

True the rotor screw isn't really needed, I've stripped one from factory and drilled out, so I use impact driver on factory ones now. I do reinstall but barely tight, flush and finger tight. My cars with studs I throw them in my random screw tin.

Petza914

The first time you do a brake job, have on hand stainless versions of these screws with the tapered heads and install them with some anti seize on the threads. You'll never need to have another spare.

For any fastener I remove when working on my cars that's not a hardened, high-strength Grade 8, 10, or 12, I replace it with a stainless one because I'll probably be the one that's back there trying to remove it the next time. Yes, it's a little pricey but so worth the lack of aggravation the next time.

Using valve lapping compound with the impact tool is a great tip to give the bit more grip in the head. I actually have some of that on hand from a recent dirt bike top end rebuild where I had to lap in the new Kibblewhite stainless valves to the head.

dgjks6

Thanks. I got the stainless #6 14 and 16mm lengths at Home Depot. The one I put in fits perfect. Forgot antiseize.

Waiting for the impact driver to remove the rest. If it does not work and I still have to drill them out I'm gonna be pissed.

Also still waiting for the 10mm spacers from ECS for the rear. ECS is local to me so I try to use them, but it always takes a week to get stuff. FCP is in another state and stuff arrives in 2 days.

mhm993

Impact driver will absolutely work. One hit with a hammer. Not to worry!