Just watched this DIY oil change on You Tube.
Never changed the oil myself in my 997's. Not sure why since it looks ridiculously simple but probably because they've all been H&R lowered and there's no way I can get underneath that oil pan and access the drain plug no matter what the guy in the video says. Picked up 12 qts.of Mobil 1 0-40 at BJ's for $69 and the filter from Suncoast for $36. So now I just have to find a way to get underneath the car. Don't have a lift so all I can think is backing it up on ramps. How important are the torque numbers he's talking about in the video for the drain plug and the filter housing? Nice and tight won't suffice?

 

If 3 inches of lift will give you enough room to access drain plug and filter; purchase two 2x12s at Home Depot for less than $50, cut at 45 degree angle and stack and nail two pieces, place in front of all 4 wheels and drive up. Super safe and super easy to set up and store, ramps will get you higher but less stable and more room to store.


Doing your own maintenance you will save money, learn a lot, and can actually do better work than many mechanics. But you need to invest time in learning and the task and money for tools (Amazon and Harbor Freight have ok tools at low prices). Yes drain plugs and filter housings need to be final tight with a torque wrench. 996 37 ft/lbs for plug and 1 1/16" socket on filter for 19 ft/lbs, might be different for your 997.

You will feel very good after doing your own maintenance, just need to get tools and knowledge to not cause damage or injury.

 

If you're using an aluminum, magnetic drain plug (see link) torque is 19 ft lbs

https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/PKMAGNETIC.html

Also be sure to use 8mm hex bit (not torx) on the drain plug and make sure it is seated fully - most of the rounding issues are a result of not seating bit fully and keeping it straight when removing/installing.

 

I think 3" might be enough but still tight. I have room in the garage to store the ramps but I'll look into both options.

I've done a lot of my own maintenance on prior cars and I agree it's very satisfying and saves a lot of money too. The 997 is different though. Tight quarters and to really enjoy it to its fullest I would really want a lift since it seems quiet a bit of work is done from underneath. Now it turns out I need to buy a torque wrench, a 36mm axle nut and something to get the car elevated somehow just to change oil. I already have $100 in this between the oil and the filter and by the time I'm done running around looking for and buying the rest I need I've spent more time and money than if I had just taken it to my indy 2 miles from my house, waited for an hour for the old oil to drain and be on my way. I know what you're about to say. Whatever tools and equipment I have to buy now I can reuse next time and I'm considering that.

The fact that I'm busy with work now probably affects my thinking here. If I was slow at work or retired.....no-brainer.

 

2009 C2S 187K miles

Forget the wood planks... just get a $70 speed jack from Harbor Freight, buy a $2 hockey puck from a sports store.... then lift just one side in the rear, slip the tub under there, remove the plug and then let the jack back down flat. Your tub has to be low profile and fit under the lowered, level car... you don't need to get your hand between the car and tub while it drains. If you are not sure it is done, then jack it up a few inches to see. Honestly, don't over think this. A nice, cheap jack comes in handy way more than wood planks over time.

This is the way I do my changes now... inside my warm garage. Oh, I slip a large, flattened cardboard sheet under there just in case I splatter.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

Professional maintenance doubles or more the cost of most jobs on our 911 (Crank Position Sensor $100 install $400 etc), thus only way we can own one is do most work ourselves. So if have a lot of money take it to the guy who has all the tools and pay, if not either obtain lots of reasonable quality tools and reference materials or not able to own one of these magnificent machines. I don't consider any path better than another, just we really enjoy repairing and improving ours.

 

And most important of all, go to Youtube for all your advanced training

 

fwiw - I drive rear up on 2x4's, remove drain plug, and have oil draining in 5min. What's not shown in pic., is that I have to use two drain pans, because of the 8+ quarts of oil it takes. After i switch to 2nd drain pan, I let it continued to drain for ~ 1.5 hours in attempt to get all old oil out. Since oil drain plug is near front of oil pan, I think having rear slightly raised helps in the drain process. Oil on cardboard is not from 997, but from my son who used "my cardboard" and splashed oil all over changing oil on his car...

Almost forgot: Its a 2010 C2S 6MT. I use Mobil1 5w-50 all year round here in FL. I change it every 5K miles or 12-months.
W

 

I don't disagree with a word you just said.

 

Sounds like a good option too. Is there an obvious spot where to place the hockey puck/jack. Don't look forward to crunching anything with the jack.

 

The hockey puck goes on the lift point. I bought a set of 4 Tesla model 3 jack pads and the work perfect.

 

Thx

 

Another alternative to using a hockey puck...
Reverse Logic LTD. Very high quality - should last a lifetime. Specific design available for Porsche / 911. Perfect fit.

https://jackpad.us/jack-pads#!/Tesla/

They also make a very nice quality wheel guide bolt for the 911...

 

I've bought their guide bolts before, and agree that they make a nice product!

I bought my lift pads as a package of 4, made and sold by RL member Dan "the-track-guy" - great product also, and the pack of 4 lets me have garages use them if lifting my car is necessary.

 

Totally out in left field but no one has mentioned Joe Gibbs oil: https://lnengineering.com/joe-gibbs-...rts-02406.html

How does this compare?