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Hi, So I replaced both speed and distance sensors with the T desing units, but im running into some issues with the calibration.
I have tried more than 20 times no matter which PIWIS i use (tried 2-4) without luck. the Error shows when the procedure of the calibration goes into calibratimg of operating distances, it goes up to 94% then it stops, some error shows then it says cannot be completed
I was told that I need to do a bleeding for the PDK? I cannot find that option on PIWIS (maybe the fill option is the bleeding?)
you can drive the car and it will shift into all gears, but sometimes it grinds 4th gear and after that it goes into limp mode. the error that its on the TCU is P1870 something about the calibration not done correctly.
attached images of PIWIS measurements
This sounds very similar to the issue I had. Re-programming the TCU before doing the calibration resolved it for me.
Hey all... in the thick of it and now I'm at a cross road! How do I close the case? I have seen many tools and description on how to open case but very few on how to close. Any directions/tools out there to close case? What is the size thread on end of both shafts? Also, what type of oil is recommended for the gear side? Thanks in Advance!
Sorry for such a delay in this reply, I’ve been off the grid for a while. I hope you’ve moved forward without this response.
See my tooling pictures within post #1106. After watching jjrichar’s YT video on the splitting apart and the pressing together of the cases, I bought the fine thread hex head bolts and matching nuts and washers from a metric fastener supplier in Tynesboro, MA. called Belmetric. In the caption of my gallery photo I list the sizes I purchased from them. I believe you’ll find they were the same sizes jjrichar used in his video. Instead of having a set of various bushing/bearing/seal driver adapters, I fabricated mine from black iron pipe nipples I got from Home Depot, cut the ends parallel and welded the washers onto one end to form a steel cup-like driver. Thread the bolts into the shafts and wind the nuts down the length to press the bearings back on their shaft lands which brings the rear case along until the case surfaces mate and the inner races are shouldered on the shafts.
The use of separate bolts demands that you use one wrench to hold the bolt from rotation while rotating the nut with another wrench. I fashioned a steel bar and clamped it across the two bolts’ hex flats so all I needed was a single wrench. It was a simple solution to not having two large-span wrenches.
The use of separate bolts demands that you use one wrench to hold the bolt from rotation while rotating the nut with another wrench. I fashioned a steel bar and clamped it across the two bolts’ hex flats so all I needed was a single wrench. It was a simple solution to not having two large-span wrenches. Bearing and case drivers in action
I really like this. I needed two 36mm and two 32mm spanners to do it the way I did. I love it when I see a solution that is so simple and clearly better. You don't need to counter hold the bolt, so you have a hand that is free as well. I will be adopting this next time.
I really like this. I needed two 36mm and two 32mm spanners to do it the way I did. I love it when I see a solution that is so simple and clearly better. You don't need to counter hold the bolt, so you have a hand that is free as well. I will be adopting this next time.
Great idea and yet another example of Boxster/Cayman work being done with the PDK still in the car saving lots of labor hours. Has anyone tried it in the car in a 911 yet? Obviously it would be more difficult but I don't think we have a definitive answer yet on feasibility.
First, I must say this thread is GOLD! Second, I just had my first transmission error at just over 90k miles for my 2013 C4S: P0843: Pressure Sensor 1 (Clutch 1), Short Circuit to B+
Following the Porsche electronic troubleshooting manual, I should first replace the TCU and then, if the error persists, go after the pressure sensor. Considering Porsche's official stance that the transmission must be replaced as a whole; is there value in me trying to source a replacement TCU or should I go straight after the error'd sensor?
First, I must say this thread is GOLD! Second, I just had my first transmission error at just over 90k miles for my 2013 C4S: P0843: Pressure Sensor 1 (Clutch 1), Short Circuit to B+
Following the Porsche electronic troubleshooting manual, I should first replace the TCU and then, if the error persists, go after the pressure sensor. Considering Porsche's official stance that the transmission must be replaced as a whole; is there value in me trying to source a replacement TCU or should I go straight after the error'd sensor?
I'd start with troubleshooting the harness first as it could certainly be the cause of the short. Given that it takes a bit of work to get to the sensor I'd then try another TCU. Finally I'd replace the sensor. I have a spare in case you need one BTW. Good luck!
I'd start with troubleshooting the harness first as it could certainly be the cause of the short. Given that it takes a bit of work to get to the sensor I'd then try another TCU. Finally I'd replace the sensor. I have a spare in case you need one BTW. Good luck!
Thanks for the input!
The harness where it inputs into the PDK or the TCU side? Is one area more prone to issues?
Thanks for the input!
The harness where it inputs into the PDK or the TCU side? Is one area more prone to issues?
If you disconnect at the TCU and measure you should be able to tell whether there's a real short or not. If not, the issue is likely the TCU. If there is a short, disconnect at the transmission. If short is still present it's the harness, if not it's the sensor.
If you disconnect at the TCU and measure you should be able to tell whether there's a real short or not. If not, the issue is likely the TCU. If there is a short, disconnect at the transmission. If short is still present it's the harness, if not it's the sensor.
Thanks, is there a list somewhere for expected resistance from each pin? I don’t see that in the great documentation of this thread.
Thanks, is there a list somewhere for expected resistance from each pin? I don’t see that in the great documentation of this thread.
It may be buried in the comments here somewhere but I don't remember it ever being documented. The nice thing is that there are two of them in the 9x7s, and three in some 9x1s. You can compare the readings against each other and use the good one(s) as a reference.
Thanks, is there a list somewhere for expected resistance from each pin? I don’t see that in the great documentation of this thread.
Measuring the sensors I have it looks like you should see the following (actual values from the two I measured in parenthesis):
Gnd - Signal 8 kOhm (8.06 and 8.12)
Gnd - Power 14MOhm (13.66 and 14.87)
Signal - Power Open
You can also measure voltage at the connector with it plugged in. It should be less than 4.5V. If it is , I'd suspect the TCU. If it's not I'd suspect the sensor/wiring or an actual pressure issue. Does it vary at all or is it railed at the supply voltage? If railed it's likely a short, if not perhaps an actual pressure issue. How does the pressure look in PIWIS? It's possible that this is an issue with the hydraulics if voltage / pressure is high (solenoid 7?).
Measuring the sensors I have it looks like you should see the following (actual values from the two I measured in parenthesis):
Gnd - Signal 8 kOhm (8.06 and 8.12)
Gnd - Power 14MOhm (13.66 and 14.87)
Signal - Power Open
You can also measure voltage at the connector with it plugged in. It should be less than 4.5V. If it is , I'd suspect the TCU. If it's not I'd suspect the sensor/wiring or an actual pressure issue. Does it vary at all or is it railed at the supply voltage? If railed it's likely a short, if not perhaps an actual pressure issue. How does the pressure look in PIWIS? It's possible that this is an issue with the hydraulics if voltage / pressure is high (solenoid 7?).
On the TCU side, I am having a hard time identifying the correct pins for 'Pressure Sensor 1.'
Would it be 'Analog 1?' (Image is from the 991 Workshop manual)