Just keep in mind it won’t be hard to sell at all - as long as seller and buyer agree on a price. I like cars a lot but fretting about resale of any of the 40-odd I’ve owned has never been a concern. There’s been a handful I’ve regretted selling but that’s the breaks. Enjoy your car for what it is, for however long you have it.

 

It would be an interesting poll. Ask owners what major repairs they've had on 100k mile plus cars. Outside of the clutch that is. I bought my 2.12 GTS with super low mils but I drive it. Reason I wanted a low mile car is I no longer do my own repairs and I have little time to spare on even getting repairs done.

 

Have to agree. Had my car up for sale for a while on the RL marketplace, Autotrader and Cars.com. I think it had about 61,000 miles on it at that time. The only comments about "high mileage" came from RL members. Best Porsche forum bar none imo. with an abundance of invaluable information but not the best place to sell your car based on my experience. Have read similar opinions from other RL members.

 

I always find it funny that whenever someone asks advice on a car listing that seems like a great deal there's always a handful of people who chime in that "you should be able to get it for a few grand less".

Buncha cheap, optimistic bastards on this forum!

(ETA: And, of course, EVERYONE here thinks their 911 is really worth a few grand more than what they are going for on the open market )

 

Whats the approximate asking price? It took me a year+ to find my 2009 997.2 4S manual with the options I considered essential. I've had it for two years and I still get daily market updates for my search, so I've noticed that the market value is stable. Its a marvelous car, and it hasn't depreciated in two years / 10k miles. While I was shopping I noticed that the 997.2 would sell especially fast (relative to the 997.1). There seemed to be a lot more PDK models available though. Get it inspected, but if its running strong I wouldn't bother with a leak down test or a bore scope. In fact, the technician who inspected mine said I'd be throwing money away on those tests. Negotiate a fair price and start driving.

 

Not sure what that has to do with my post which addressed what's considered high mileage and who cares and where.

I do agree with you though that whenever one of these "price check" threads show up it almost always seems to turn into a competition on who can justify the lowest price possible. Somebody says $49K and you can be sure someone else will follow with $47K as the target price. Then it typically ends with "I think you should be able to get it for $45K because of this or that. I've lost count on how many buyers have posted that the car they wanted sold for more than they offered. Many of these cases based on unrealistic lowball prices suggested here.

 

Just curious how much is the seller asking for this car? Maybe some of us who knows the market well for these cars can tell you if it's a good deal or not. I was looking for a 997.2 for over a year and recently got one with a 6sp manual at 50k miles. PPI came back with positive results and car was owned by a PCA member so needless to say it has been well maintained. I don't plan on selling my car any time soon and I'm sure I will NOT have a hard time selling it at a decent price after it has over 100k miles.
I personally believe the 997.2 will be a sought after 911 in the water cooled world just like the 993 is in the air cooled world. It's the last to have the classic design, size, easy access to the engine and I know I'm not the only one who is fascinated with the looks.

 

I have a 2010 C4S Cab, 73K miles. Maintained 100%...I keep cars forever anyway. For grins looked at the local dealer prices on the new 2020 C4S Cabs-- (my car new was $116.5K sticker). The current crop- $145-$165K sticker. That was the price of a turbo in 2010. I can't help but think these new prices should keep the used market fairly healthy for a while.....

 

I bought my 2009 C4S with 73K miles and had a PPI done also. Got the same feedback as you did. Mine is a PDK and I couldn't verify if the PDK 60K maintenance was ever done (previous owner didn't do it) so I had that done as a precaution. So far so good. I researched the cars for the better part of 2 years before buying. Decided on a 9A1 car specifically to avoid bore scoring and IMS failures. I did not get my bores scoped. My car was a Bay Area California car it's whole life, so it never saw any very cold temperatures. Cold temps are shaping up to be a factor in the few scoring incidents with the 9A1 motors. Driving hard without proper warmup causes piston expansion ahead of block expansion and if there is already a tight fit between piston and block, you are headed for a seize. If the car you are looking at is a Cali car, you can probably skip the bore scope, but if you REALLY want to be safe, pay for one.

My 2c

 

Agil, if you're looking at a car with a service history with 85K miles it should have had a major maintenence at 80K , if you can document that service you should be good for another 20k without a lot of service except oil changes. I just did 80K service on my 2009 4S cab and with a couple of unforseen problems $3300 later I'm confident she'll be fine and trouble free for another 20K.

 

What was wrong with your car that cost you $3300? Did they gave you a list of what was included in the 80k mile service maintenance?

 

Great observation. Agree completely. Miles matter to a lot of buyers though. Based on what I've seen here, 100,000 miles seems to be a psychological cut off point to some. Others seem just fine with a well maintained 997.1 with higher miles than that for around $30K, give or take depending on overall condition. Seems like those high mile well maintained examples with maint. records bottom out in the $30K zone.

 

Indy shop charges $140/hr labor (dealer charges $175 ) Labor to replace plugs and coils $529 (I supplied parts). Brake flush labor $205, fluid $44, replace worn rear toe adjuster labor $156 part $220, replacing plugs and coils did not fix intermittent misfiring, so needed additional 4 hrs labor ( $600) for additional diagnostic time visual inspection of motor, harness, connections, etc, scans, smoke test for vacuum leaks, etc., problem turned out to be failed valve lift solenoid on left was dead, replaced both to avoid possible failure of right one later and associated labor charges $220 each for parts and $350 labor including Follow up scans, taxes, shop fees and some miscellaneous parts and labor to swap out my Ti lug bolts that were too short. All stuff that had to be done. I changed cabin filter and engine air filters myself.

 

Thanks for the additional reply.

I saw it today in the flesh and I am 98% sure I am going to pull the trigger tomorrow. The exterior was almost 10/10, the interior maybe 9.0-9.5/10, the only obvious issue was some wear and peeling of plastic finish of the ash tray cover underneath the hand brake.

The tech that did the PPI last week said the 80k service was done. The only aspect, he could not confirm was the spark plugs, but doesn't think anyone would have done the 80k service and not changed the plugs unless they just did it all ala cart.

As mentioned it is a 6-peed and as far as we know the clutch has never been done, so that will be one expense to expect in the next 10k miles perhaps. But it felt fine for now.

As a bonus, I discovered it had the Sharkwerks center muffler independent bypass.

I am going to post a video of it idling perhaps in a new thread, I think the sound is normal (the PPI tech said it was fine last week when I talked to him on the phone), but I am paranoid. Recall, I started the thread to discuss 9A1 engine reliability and confirming that bore scoring is not an issue to be concerned with.

 

usually the tech that does the PPI will make some kind of comment such as " yeah, it's a really nice car" or " I'd stay away from this one", did he render an opinion.. If he verified that the 80K service was done I don't know why he couldn't provide more detail as to what parts were changed