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Seems like all the lights of that design are the same and may actually come from the same plant. We've had the same set of those on my wife's car for probably 6 years and over 50,000 miles and haven't had any issues with them. I do like the newer style better, like those I posted on my silver car and if hers fail at some point, I'll replace them with a set of that style. Her car also has the $2 DRL doide hack done to it so the fog light LEDs in those assemblies are on 100% of the time.
I was hoping the same thing regarding common source of production but I don’t think that’s the case. Also have the two dollar DRL. Probably only have about 500 miles on them :-(
Can someone tell me where the discussion on the $2 DRL hack installation is? I put LEDs on my 2008 997.1 S and would like them to come on automatically when the car starts and is running but can’t seem to find the right thread. I hope it’s easy. Not great working with trons but am willing to try. Thanks....
Can someone tell me where the discussion on the $2 DRL hack installation is? I put LEDs on my 2008 997.1 S and would like them to come on automatically when the car starts and is running but can’t seem to find the right thread. I hope it’s easy. Not great working with trons but am willing to try. Thanks....
Thanks Petza- I should have been more specific. I bought LEDs like these: https://delreycustoms.myshopify.com/...running-lights
I want the middle LED light strip to light up like it's supposed to and act as my DRL's when I drive the car and not the fog light LED's. Are there any threads on how to make that work? I know someone must have done the same thing at some point. Appreciate any help....
Thanks Petza- I should have been more specific. I bought LEDs like these: https://delreycustoms.myshopify.com/...running-lights
I want the middle LED light strip to light up like it's supposed to and act as my DRL's when I drive the car and not the fog light LED's. Are there any threads on how to make that work? I know someone must have done the same thing at some point. Appreciate any help....
I ran my DRL to a blank spot in the fuse block with a 3 amp inline fuse. Works like charm.
Thanks Petza- I should have been more specific. I bought LEDs like these: https://delreycustoms.myshopify.com/...running-lights
I want the middle LED light strip to light up like it's supposed to and act as my DRL's when I drive the car and not the fog light LED's. Are there any threads on how to make that work? I know someone must have done the same thing at some point. Appreciate any help....
I actually did that. Used a current sensing DRL Module with and SPDT relay. The horizontal bar of those lights is fiber optic and not LED. If hooked directly to the output from the current sensing DRL module it will blow it. Went through 2 of them before figuring this out. So instead you hook the output to the relay and the lights to the relay and then the lights get power with current dieztrky from the battery when the module activates. Been worki gfine like that for probably 7 years now, but I didn't do a diy on it.
Good day. For those that installed these lights, have you have any issues over time?
If I recall when I had mine installed by a professional, they worked flawlessly. After that, I needed to have the front bumper repainted because of a crack in the paint. The body shop didn't hook them back up correctly and one side shorted out. Bought another, took it back to where I originally had them installed and they've worked fine ever since (about 3 1/2 years now). I much prefer the look of these, the front LED side markers and the LED tail lights I bought which have also worked fine. Just make sure that after installation, all the bulbs light up and they're pointed straight when you look at them head on. One of my LED tail lights had an LED that was crooked and I had to send it back for another. The tail lights and side markers I did myself and it was fairly easy. I also made sure when I bought any of the lights off of e-Bay, that they were manufactured in Taiwan and not China....
Installed new DRLs. Wired the parking lights to stay on at all times as DRL. All functions work normally with exception to the new parking lights turn only when the engine is running.
No $2 diode hack, modules, relays. Tapped to fuse slot ACC C1 and wire directly to outer ring parking lights to use as constant DRLs. Spliced the OEM parking light wiring to the side marker lights to eliminate codes.
Installed new DRLs. Wired the parking lights to stay on at all times as DRL. All functions work normally with exception to the new parking lights turn only when the engine is running.
No $2 diode hack, modules, relays. Tapped to fuse slot ACC C1 and wire directly to outer ring parking lights to use as constant DRLs. Spliced the OEM parking light wiring to the side marker lights to eliminate codes.
I did the$2 hack a couple of years ago and works well. However, I do not like the continuous 8042 error code I get on my Durametric. Looking for advise how to eliminate this.
I’m looking at your your setup. Did you do all the wiring work within the fuse box wiring spaghetti?
TIA
Cheers,
Purchased a piggy back fuse tap, removed 3 screws to remove the carpeted panel surrounding the fuse box at the footwell location. Removed the C1 fuse and placed in the inner fuse location on the piggy back. Placed a 3A fuse in the outer fuse location of the piggy back. Inserted the fuse tap into the C1 fuse location that is the ACC power. May be a different fuse for different 997.1 variants.
There will be a small opening in the front facing fuse box located top centre to fish the fuse tap. The hole is small and will not fit the soldered end of the fuse tap through.
Fish a 18 AWG wire from the cabin to the frunk. There is a grommet in frunk behind the right side of battery. Have to shift the battery to the left to get access. Used a coat hanger and inserted through the grommet and ended up in the drivers footwell.
Using a solder connector, joined the new 18 AWG wire to the piggy back tap. Inserted the new wire through the small opening in the fuse box. Attached it coat hanger and pulled the through the grommet into the frunk. Make sure there is enough length with the new wire to reach the new drivers side light and tap the new wire in the frunk for ACC power for the passenger light. The rest of wiring for the lights is outside of the cabin.
Only 1 piggy back fuse tap wire is visible front facing from the fuse box without the cover. Fuse box cover will fit back into place. The new single wire is behind the fuse box and carpeted panel and is fully hidden, so no wiring mess.
09-02-2020, 01:11 PM
Looks good.
