You can certainly do much better. But honestly, unless you do used oil analysis, you don't know what an oil is doing for your engine unless it blows up. Then you know it failed for sure.

 

So which oil does the best in UOA? I’ve seen several people go over 100K miles on Mobil 1 0w-40 alone, so I’d Ike to know who’s done same or better from the get go on a different oil.

 

While I wouldn't ignore some engine blow ups might be related to bad quality oil, I wouldn't make such a blanket statement as definitive. I've personally been using M1 (which is a Porsche approved oil) for over 40 years. My old BMW E30 accumulated over 1/2 million miles on M1 on the original engine.

 

I was just talking with a friend who owns a 2000 Boxster this morning who has 130k miles, and only used M1 0W40 at 5-7500k change intervals. Either the oil is decent or Porsche’s engine runs well on crappy oil.

 

I love oil threads. Not sure why. But I do. And I have a collection of various oils on my shelf. My 997 only has 45,000 miles, but my wife's macan has 120,000K and runs like new and burns no oil on M1 0w40. And I have an Audi and BMW with 200,000 miles that used their fair share of Mobil 1 and are still running strong. Audi burns no oil. Never even seen the level drop. The BMW...not sure if burns any because of all the various leaks.

 

I remember Lake Speed Jr's presentation last year at TechTactics West where he talked about this and IIRC, how the oil formulation has changed as recent as 8 months.

Lubrizol - World leader in oil and fuel additive technology – One of 4 companies that mfg. - Purchased by Warren Buffet for $9 Billion - Invented Zinc DialkylDithioPhosphate in 1941

 

Do have to repost that my 2000 Boxster S had two engines fail. 1st was all Porsche recommended, then I moved to heavier oil on the 2nd engine at around 100K miles (150K on the chassis). Should I blame the oil?

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

You can if you want to, but I’d wager that there are a lot more examples of people who didn’t have failures with M1 than did. What mode of failures did you have and how do you know it was the oil? And do you think if you used Ceratec or MoS2, you’d have a different outcome? Peace.

 

At least I can be thankful I don't have to worry about LSPI.

 

And why is that? In any case when properly/normally driven (i.e., downshift when needed) these engines should not suffer from LSPI with any A40 approved oil. Smaller engines, yes.

 

Just that I have a 997.1.

 

LSPI can still occur in a non-DFI engine, it's called engine knocking. But yeah, no one should labor an engine.

 

Agree....no motor oil in the world will prevent engine self-destruction if the driver lugs the engine all the time.

 

So I had thought I sent in a sample from the original oil change from the dealer (M1). But I did not. So this sample is after a short DT40 change, track oil change, XP9 and then a full run with DT40. (Total of about 5k miles of ownership)

Aluminum a little (lot?) high. But otherwise looks great.

Cw




@charlesNavaro your thoughts? (Guess I cant link from the phone. )

 

That UOA is unusual. Over twice the amount of moly that is normally recommended and large amounts of ZDDP. Too much of s good thing?