2009 C2S 145K miles

I hate oil threads.... but there is something wierd about them... like staring at a train wreck....

My Email to Liqui Molly

Hello, I have a 2009 C2S Porsche 911 with 144,000 miles. I change my oil every 5,000 miles.
Caratec or MoS2? What should I use?
I currently burn about 1-1.5 liter of oil every 5,000 miles.
I use either Mobil 1 0W-40 or Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40 (both are Porsche-approved A40 oils).
Peace
Bruce

Liqui Molly Response

Dear Bruce,
thank you very much for contacting us and your interest in our LIQUI MOLY products.
We recommend you to add LIQUI MOLY Cera Tec into the engine oil at the next oil change.
LIQUI MOLY Cera Tec is mainly designed for all modern four-stroke engines with less loss and low mileage. It´s a combination of a chemical surface protection and a solid lubricant. It is also good for extended oil drain intervals (more than 10K miles) and lasts up to 30K miles. But of course the effect vanishes after the product isn't present any more after a oil change, therefor we recommend to use it at every oil change. As the chemical friction modifier lasts longer on the surface, you can also interchange and use the LIQUI MOLY MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment every second oil change.
The best motor oil for your water-cooled Porsche is either our Synthoil Energy A40 SAE 0W-40 or our Leichtlauf High Tech SAE 5W-40. Of course both products are Porsche factory approved (A40) for your engine.
Please also consider the following to help reduce wear and improve performance.

Freundliche Grüße / Best regards
i. A. Steffen Niemietz
Anwendungstechniker
application engineer
F & E / Anwendungstechnik
Phone: +49 731 1420-658
Mobil: +49 162 2815064
Fax: +49 731 1420-44658
steffen.niemietz@liqui-moly.de
LIQUI MOLY GmbH
Jerg-Wieland-Straße 4 | 89081 Ulm | GERMANY
www.liqui-moly.de

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

Bruce,
Just curious, are you set on using that oil? Why not use a product like Driven that was developed specifically for our engines and has the necessary boost of additives built into the package?

Just curious. And, full disclosure, I personally have become a fan of the LN/Flat6 Driven oil product lineup.

Cw

 

I am no oil expert... I can't comment. I considered it.... I dunno. My objective is to use a slightly heavier oil due to my high mileage. Should I care? I change every 5K miles so in my little mind... I don't think any of this matters much if at all. Overall, I dunno.

Mr navarro, please feel free to post your comments... they are always welcomed and appreciated.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

I run MoS2 in motul xcess in my m97.01. Highly recommend mos2

 

2010 C4S PDK. Just turned 128K miles on a group drive from San Francisco area to Santa Barbara. Mobil One 0-40 every 5K miles. Still zero oil loss between changes.

MoS2 used the last two changes. No additives before that time.

Still on the fence making a change to Driven or something else. Why change what is working? And then you ask why I added MoS2 the last two changes? Yeah ...

 

I like Ceratec and Mos2 ...My car runs much smoother with them and start ups are less noisy ..

 

Bruce,

We share the same year for our cars, but you have about 50k more in the clock. The only reason I stepped away from Mobile 1 0w-40 is because my blackstone report started showing more than just a trace of gas in the oil. I think it showed 1%. As an engineer I decided to search reputable sources on why this might be. Long story short the injectors start to leak with age and that adds fuel to the oil. I did not want to thin out a 0 weight oil. That is why I now run Motul 5w-40. I am not partial to Motul beyond some of the “experts” say it is good. I just wanted a 5w oil that I could easily procure. Now that said I burn no oil between my 5000 mile oil changes. I lose one bar by the time I change it out and sometimes I do not even lose the one bar. I would just go and buy any quality 5w-40 oil and call it a day. You will consume less oil with it, but who knows the exact numbers. Thinning out an already thin oil is a bad idea.

 

This...
and this...
Did they read your message?

 

Wrong... Do your research on Ceratec. Stuff is proven and I notice a smoother running motor every time I use it.

 

According to Charles Navarro from LN Engineering, your statement is completely false. He tested Ceratec and proved that there is a benefit of adding it to your oil:

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post15857424

 

I've posted on this topic in other threads. We did a test in house to see what exactly the Ceratec additive it, other than foul smelling. When blended with an oil that had zero Moly, in the ratio prescribed on the packaging, it boosts the Moly level to 300 ppm. Like other moly additives, it has to be used every oil change for lasting effect. However, if you use an oil that already has moly in it, there is no reason to add an additive.

For comparison, DT40 has 600 PPM and DI40 has 300 PPM of Moly.

Most A40 oils by design have no moly. It's how the A40 oil was designed.

I have no issue with the Ceratec or MoS2 additive, but I would use a LM oil with a LM additive.

 

If I started seeing measurable amounts of gas in my oil, the fix would be new injectors, not a heavier weight oil.

 

Engines with direct injection normally see quite a bit of fuel intrusion.

If the car is port injected, I'd smoke test the intake for vacuum leaks that might be causing enrichment. Fuel trims would also be off if that was the case. Bad injectors can leak, causing fuel to pool in cylinders after shutdown, causing cylinder bore washdown and fuel intrusion into the crankcase.

 

For those of us unfortunate enough to be going into winter storage mode...

Is it worth adding <moly additive of choice> for winter storage? Or is a fresh oil change sufficient?

 

Storing the engine with fresh oil is the single best thing you can do. I'd recommend adding fuel stabilizer to the fuel as well if the car will sit more than a month, as E10 fuels start going bad really fast compared to ethanol free.