I need to clarify this. If you do oil analysis at every oil change, a flush using Driven break in oil run until at a bare minimum to full operating temperature before changing to your choice of Driven oil is recommended. BR40 would be the appropriate flush for DI40 or DT40.

I don't want anyone to be concerned they are going to harm their engine by not doing a flush first. Additive clash between other brands isn't something we have experienced with Driven oils, however like Pete said, the used oil analysis results of that first change to Driven will be skewed if you don't do the flush first. If you have no intention of doing a UOA, then a flush isn't 100% required.

 

Ceratec, like LM MoS2, is a moly additive. Driven oils already have levels higher than other street oils in this segment and DI40 has approximately the same level as adding Ceratec to an average A40 oil.

 

Just changed the oil in my 2010 C2S in which I've used Motul Excess 5-40 since I bought it in 2013. I ordered a bottle of Ceratek and I'm planning to use one bottle at each change (about 3,000 miles) until there's an expose' about it causing some type of damage, or that it's carcinogenic. In the interest of full disclosure, I used Arco graphite oil when it came out in the 70's

 

I found a case of that in one of my father in law's old buildings. Used it in an old aircooled VW engine. Ran super smooth :-)

 

I don't think using a bottle of Ceratec every 3K miles is necessary. According to the company, Ceratec last 30,000 miles and shorter oil change won't drain it out because it adheres and fill the voids of engine/piston surfaces. In other words it coats on the surface of the metal. In essence you are wasting money using one bottle for every 3000 miles oil change.

 

You have to use it at every fill to have the effect. It doesn't coat the surfaces and stay there for X miles. In normal operation, the tribofilms form (moly, zddp) and are cleaned off by the detergents. Temperature and pressure cause them to reform. The process is repeated. If you eliminate the moly in the oil, you can't form the "glassy plates" that reduce friction and wear.

 

As noted in the email response from Liqui Moly regarding Ceratec ... see my original post in this thread: "It is also good for extended oil drain intervals (more than 10K miles) and lasts up to 30K miles. But of course the effect vanishes after the product isn't present any more after a oil change, therefor we recommend to use it at every oil change."

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

Replenishing the stock for upcoming oil changes. Engine goodness for a modern engine (Ceratec) and a classic (MoS2):

 

Ok. I gotta ask this. The first couple of posts in this thread show a couple of owners of 997s that have already gone over 100k miles only on oil with no added moly additives until recently. Doesn’t that imply that motor oil at regular changes alone are enough to get 100k or more out of the car? My personal experience is that all of my cars I’ve owned over 100k miles or my Boxster which I’ve owned for 17 yrs have never gone bad using just the recommended oil alone. And like I’ve said, I’ve seen one Boxster owner with an 02 model that has the smallest and most prone to IMS failure bearing go 300k miles on Mobil 1 alone. What really then is the advantage to using an additive?

Is it that it is particularly useful to use these additives after the engine is older and worn where the extra friction reducers help you prolong the life of the engine even further or seal up small imperfections?

I am hesitant to throw a can of these additives in my 997s now at 29k miles because I’m not sure it’ll even help or maybe even make things worse. Flame suit on.

PS, today, I’ve just added a can of MoS2 to my daily driver Audi A4 stage 1 tuned turbo at 72k miles to see if I like it. I didn’t notice any smoother engine running or anything like that. If anything, the car seems slower to me now too due to it thickening the Mobil 1 currently in the car, but I’m sure it’s just in my imagination.

 

I was wondering about this as well. My 997 currently has 21K miles and I’ve only done one UOA since taking ownership. The UOA results suggest everything is so far so good. This was before I switched to the LN adapter and was with the OEM filter/housing.

 

Consider those copper and iron levels.

 

Ditto. You beat me to it. The copper should not be that high.

 

I just began the Ceratek routine but I agree with everything you've said. The counter is, "My uncle smoked all his life and lived to be 97..." Ceratek may not help anything, but at this point there does not seem to be much of a downside, other than the $20 per oil change. Maybe mine will last an extra 50k miles?

 

Yeah, I’m more concerned that it does more harm than good though, as I’ve read the solid lubricants, if left for a while (eg. if car is not driven much), will separate and fall to bottom of oil pan. My 997 is not a daily driver so may sit a week at a time between drives. Also, how do I know if this additive plays nice with the oil in my car in terms of not clashing with the oil’s own additive package? And why aren’t there people out there who buy brand new 911s and use these additives from the get go instead of waiting till later in the car’s life. I mean I don’t read of any owners in the 992 or 991 forum talking about Ceratec I don’t think.

 

I've considered it but it's really not my copper tea.

Could this be the result of the mileage per oil change?