Flat6 Innovations

Based on this, I'd start with being curious about a lifter issue on cylinder #3.
The first thing I would perform is a RUNNING compression test, and pay close attention to the behavior of cylinder 3 in comparison to cylinder 5.. Not the values, but the gauge behavior

Those pending codes being gone don't mean anything unless the car has been driven enough, and had enough cold start cycles to achieve OBDII readiness for all monitors.
Usually a true lifter issue is most notable at cold start, when valve lash is impacted by heavier oil viscosities. This can make things tough to diagnose, as a true mechanical understanding of this engine is required to catch it occurring live, and decipher what's being witnessed.

If the car is under warranty, expect the fight to be long and hard, as they'll fight tooth and nail trying to discourage anything being done in a lot of cases. It takes a full failure to see action in lots of cases, but every case is different.

thephenom

Recorded a couple more videos. Going to see if I can upload the rest after the kids go to bed.

Recording at cold start after sitting at work parking lot for 8hrs:

Recording after a 15km drive going home, some stop and go, some stretches of 70km/h.

Petza914

So I don't hear it at all in the cold start video and in the second video it is definitely not following the revolutions of the motor and much more random, so the good news is that it most likely is not bore scoring.

I would pull your airbox out, remove the serpentine belt and inspect all the pulleys for play and spin them to see if any make noise or have a catch as they rotate sometimes. Let's at least eliminate Ll of those things.

Flat6 Innovations

Now it almost sounds like a loose baffle in the muffler, or a loose cat element.
You need a 20 dollar mechanics stethoscope.

thephenom

Drove the car to the gym, and just got a CEL. I guess I'm going to the mechanic tomorrow morning, and hope the original dealer be honest about the warranty.

thephenom

Got the CEL read, it's P0303 again. Called the original dealer, he denied anything wrong when he came to check the car out. And basically said I just need to drive the car more and harder.


His offering is I take the car back to the Porsche specialist 120km away. Looks like it's going to be a long hard battle.

Flat6 Innovations

The reason I hate warranties, is because they are just used as a marketing tool by most. Truthfully, an honest dealer would never sell a car of this era with a warranty. A buyer shouldn't even expect one, IMHO.

It was finally driven enough to pop the code, like I figured.

Now, the very first thing that should be done is cutting straight to the case by verifying mechanical integrity. Don't pussyfoot around by thinking "the car runs fine, it can't be mechanical" and then continue to chase phantom issues. Start with a sump off cylinder inspection via bore scope, and then follow that with a similar inspection through the spark plug hole. BOTH of these views must be explored, not just one. Use part 4 of my "a focus on bore scoring" Rennvision YouTube video series to do this at home for less than 100 bucks in tools. If you do this yourself you'll probably get a better, more concise point of view than the "specialist" that more than likely does not know, what he does not know about these engines, specifically.
If the bore scoring inspection is good, then perform a RUNNING compression test, comparing the behavior of the compression test with cylinder 6, both at idle, at 3,000 RPM, and revved up and down from idle to 4K RPM, disable the injector on these cylinders when performing the test, so fuel is not in the equation.
If the RCT, and bore scoring tests are both good, then, and only then start chasing parts..

Start with the injector, we are seeing MASSIVE injector issues with these cars, and have been for a couple of years. They can cause this misfire..
If that doesn't do it, more than likely you have a weak valve spring, or a lifter that is hanging.

In short, do the hard stuff FIRST, not LAST.

Then have the mind set of "we are alone, it is up to us". That means that putting the focus on figuring this out is the primary objective, dealing with the support from the dealer is secondary. If not, you'll just stay pissed off, and disappointed, and that will make it all worse. I see these scenarios all day, everyday, and have for 18 years of work with this engine family. Its the same story, just a different page, and a different region of the continent.

rtl5009

What was the outcome of this? What corrected the issue?

thephenom

Ended up replacing the fuel injector and that solved it.

rtl5009

And that stopped that crazy tapping? whoa

sako

I’m getting the same exact tapping as in the video. I’ve got 80k miles. No oil consumption, Checked spark plugs, changed all injectors, bore scoped cylinders and all look fine. No codes. Starts and drives fine and no smoke. Thinking chain tensioner, dual mass fly wheel, or what else?

rtl5009

When does it do it?

fully warm? Clutch in but not out?

cold?

explain and video please

sako

EXACTLY like the video posted. Car is at the shop still. I’ll make a video once there. More noticeable when warm, but does it when cold as well. Clutch in is ever so slightly slightly less , but tick is still there. My mechanic used a stethoscope and says it’s coming from the center of the engine (good luck).

next is either oil analysis, tear down to figure it out (my tech is asking if I want to throw more money at it) or just send it for a rebuild (debating who to use for rebuild —vision, fsi, any other recommendations).