Hella-Buggin'

Get a Deep sump with baffles. I went with the Mantis Sport. 3rd Rad is nice.
Pay attention to long right sweepers... the oil pressure drops due to the oil not being able to return from the heads
because the scavenge pump is on the front of the head on the left bank.
Short shift before these corners.
Brakes, Pagids were a bit to aggressive (on / off) for street tires for me. I like PFC08 and am running Yoko AD08R's.
You'll need high temp fluid. Motul is great SRF is better.
These are long term upgrades but just know that the .1 (m97) has some inherent design flaws that are exacerbated on the track.
It can be done, I've tracked mine for years, but you need to be honest about it's limits and don't go crazy.
That being said, I got tired of holding back so I bought a 997.2 GT3 for track duty and retired the 997.1 S w/ 98k Miles
back to a weekend fun car.

Petza914

Spot on here. The larger MantisSport Deep sump also has a windage tray as part of the setup and you move your existing S baffle over to the MantisSport sump. Once you do that, you'll be a little low in the back, so I'd also suggest the stainless skid plate from LN Engineering that is a thick, high quality piece that is compatible with the deep sump. That's the setup I have on my car.


You have to trim the lip from the stock oil pan baffle so it fits flush on the windage tray - an oscillating cutting tool works great for that.




Modified stock baffle on MantisSport windage tray




Deep sump installed - ignore the Fumoto Drain valve. That was only in there for 100 miles while I did a flush before switching from Motul xcess to Driven DT40



Finished with LN Engineering Magnetic Drain plug and Stainless Skid Plate. Note the plate has a nice cutout for oil filter access so it doesn't have to be removed for oil changes.







In addition to the front radiator, I would also recommend you switch to Driven DT40 oil for your 997.1 motor. It will withstand engine temperatures up to 300 degrees without breakdown and has high levels of Zinc & Phosphorous (ZDDP) needed to protect these motors.

Once you wear out your stock rotors, you may want to replace them with something better. I recommend either Girodisc or dba (Disc Brakes Australia) 2-piece fronts with 1-piece rears that are slotted. The slots keep the pad material fresher, allow the gasses and water an egress route, and the metallurgy of these rotors is better than the stock ones. The dba's also have heat sensitive painted color bars so you can see how hot they're getting. Don't set your parking brake between DE sessions as the heat in the brakes can bond the parking brake shoe material to the inside of the rear rotor hubs. Leave the transmission in gear and use a couple wheel chocks.

These are the slotted dba's on my wife's car.

Front 2-piece





Rear 1-piece






part #s for an S with big-reds ...note the fronts here are rotor rings only, and don't include the hubs (as I already had those from the prior rotor change)




This is what the 2-piece Girodiscs look like (from my 928) - different slot design and these are actually 993TT rotors





I'd also recommend the LN Spin on Oil Filter adapter so you can run a metal canister filter and have a new bypass valve spring in the filter at each oil change.

Next time you do a water pump, also install a 160 degree low-temp thermostat so the engine warms up more gradually and so the thermostat is fully open at 180 degrees instead of the stock one that sometimes takes as long as 212 before it's fully open.

Motul RBF600 is also the brake fluid I'd recommend. Get yourself a Motive Power Bleeder and doing an annual refresh of the fluid or after each track day will be pretty easy. Depending on what wheels you have, you may not even need to remove them (I don't on any of my cars and use the RBF600 in all of them).

Good luck and most importantly, have fun !

Hella-Buggin'

Come for brake fluid advice, leave with about two years worth of mod suggestions :-)

Petza914

LOL right.

Christmas is coming - everyone needs a wish list for Santa, even if it's just garage decor, like my 36" neon sign

Miamirice

So true! You know the classic “I am going to just leave it stock” phrase. Glad I have a spec Miata and an S2000 to distact me. It really is a street car for destination track events. I have no problem doing protective measures.....I will not be going down the road of solid shock mounts and Polly bushings and such. Think if That was the plan I would need to pick up one of those $10,000 boxters to be in the budget. If I put this car into a tire wall, dog house would be a best case scenario with Wifey.

I appreciate all the detailed input guys.

roadie13

+1 on the PFC-08; great endurance pad and squeals just enough during street use to signal "hello race car"

driggity

Any reason for the preference of the MantisSport Deep Sump over the LN Engineering option?

Also, I see that ECS Tuning has a front DBA 2-piece rotor setup for the 997 but I don't see an option in the DBA catalog. Do they have one or do you have the ECS setup?

w0o

Does any of this advice change for a 997.2 PDK C4S?

I'm planning on the Girodisc brake upgrade, I've done all maintenance and will do a PDK full service before taking it to the track.
I'm also in South FL - will have the 2010 911 as backup just in case to my dedicated track car with 9 track days scheduled, at 5 tracks, over 15 weeks span this Fall.

Miamirice

Are you at PBIR 24th or 28th this month?

w0o

Chin
Sebring 10/5
Road Atlanta 10/26-27
Barber 10/28
Daytona 11/9-10
Sebring (night) 12/14
PBOC
Sebring Winterfest 1/18-19

I use PBIR occasionally for Test/Tune after a change with SCCA Time Trials or TNIA

Ptech1

+1 These. Have put them on multiple mainly street driven Porsches that see track duty. Dusty, not too loud, and miss some of the bite of a full track pad. But, they are not harsh on rotors, will last and give you the security of not melting a stock set in less than a weekend, especially at Sebring.

Petza914

I don't know the specs on the .2 with respect to brake sizes or what's available from a deep sump perspective, as both my 997.1 cars are .1s. Maybe some of the .2 track guys who have had both can respond. The theory on all the upgrades is the same, but the part numbers may be different, and oil recommendation is different too - instead of DT40 in a .2, you want DI40 which is their direct injection application specific oil.

Miamirice

I will see you at Barber. Silver c2s 997.1. I am going to either do the 27th at Road Atlanta or Karting at AMP (suppose to have a great karting set up) then over to Barber for the 28th.

Hella-Buggin'

I went with the Mantis because it's one piece. The LN is a spacer and I was concerned about the additional seems leaking. The LN does utilize the X51 Baffle so
it's a nice option as well.

w0o

Cool looking forward to it - I'll be in the #3 Silver BMW E36 M3 if everything goes to plan.