I have the same intake ... thoughts? Feeling confused
#2
Well, this guy put a GT3 badge on his Carrera S and plans on swapping in a Honda engine, so I would ignore everything this guys says. I imagine episode 2 will be: Want a Porsche 911 GT3 for CHEAP? Just lie and tell everyone you have one.
But, is that the Fabspeed "CAI"? I noticed that their website advertises power increase when used with a BMC F1 air filter. I imagine most of the power increase comes from the filter, which again, I guess, is higher flowing. My second guess about that is that replacement elbow caps off a resonance tube or something designed to cut down on intake noise so it sounds louder / cooler.
But, is that the Fabspeed "CAI"? I noticed that their website advertises power increase when used with a BMC F1 air filter. I imagine most of the power increase comes from the filter, which again, I guess, is higher flowing. My second guess about that is that replacement elbow caps off a resonance tube or something designed to cut down on intake noise so it sounds louder / cooler.
#3
Well, this guy put a GT3 badge on his Carrera S and plans on swapping in a Honda engine, so I would ignore everything this guys says. I imagine episode 2 will be: Want a Porsche 911 GT3 for CHEAP? Just lie and tell everyone you have one.
But, is that the Fabspeed "CAI"? I noticed that their website advertises power increase when used with a BMC F1 air filter. I imagine most of the power increase comes from the filter, which again, I guess, is higher flowing. My second guess about that is that replacement elbow caps off a resonance tube or something designed to cut down on intake noise so it sounds louder / cooler.
But, is that the Fabspeed "CAI"? I noticed that their website advertises power increase when used with a BMC F1 air filter. I imagine most of the power increase comes from the filter, which again, I guess, is higher flowing. My second guess about that is that replacement elbow caps off a resonance tube or something designed to cut down on intake noise so it sounds louder / cooler.
#5
Not sure if this is a fair review. This mod should really be used together with a BMC or K&N hi flow air filter. When compared to the stock "accordian" like intake tube the smoother intake and slightly larger intake area should provide less turbulence and possibly better air flow. I would also say that IF the mods are providing smoother air flow then your ecu needs time to adjust. One other major factor I noticed is that your 1st and highest hp run was done with your rear deck closed. Therefore the air being sucked into the oem intake was coming from outside the engine bay with cooler air and taking advantage of the hot engine bay being closed off from the air box intake opening. Your dyno runs with the new intake mod were done with the rear deck lid open and therefore you were sucking in hot engine bay air and not taking advantage of having the rear deck closed as designed for cooler air intake.... So your test conditions between the two are not equal. Besides the heat I also would wonder if your ecu would be adjusting for any additional air flow and in some cases even applying too much fuel at first to compensate for easier air flow, which would cause a rich fuel mixture at first, and you would definitely be down on power with too much fuel compensation. It was a nice attempt, but next time consider closing the rear decklid, maybe doing several more runs or even a short drive for the ecu to adjust, and then even running a fan towards the intake opening while the decklid is closed..
I have a similar intake on my car along with K&N filter, IPD competition plenum, and GT3 82mm throttle body. After any intake mod I always reset the ecu by unplugging the battery for several minutes. Then I go out for an hour drive and take it through all types of driving conditions from cruising to full throttle runs through all the gears. This should give your ecu time to rebuild some of the fuel maps and make adjustments for the better air flow. The ECU is smart enough to make small adjustments, but it needs more time in my opinion than just back to back dyno runs.
One thing you mentioned, which I believe is a noticeable and nice side effect with this mod, is the sound from 5000-7200 rpm. I noticed a louder, higher pitched, and more aggressive sound in that range after the mod.
I like the GT3 tribute with wheels and body kit, but the GT3 badge is a bit much. just my humble opinion. Best of luck on your future mods, but try and enjoy it the way it was designed. It's a special car even with just 355hp.... btw 296 hp x 20% drivetrain loss = 355 hp.. exactly stock numbers.
I have a similar intake on my car along with K&N filter, IPD competition plenum, and GT3 82mm throttle body. After any intake mod I always reset the ecu by unplugging the battery for several minutes. Then I go out for an hour drive and take it through all types of driving conditions from cruising to full throttle runs through all the gears. This should give your ecu time to rebuild some of the fuel maps and make adjustments for the better air flow. The ECU is smart enough to make small adjustments, but it needs more time in my opinion than just back to back dyno runs.
One thing you mentioned, which I believe is a noticeable and nice side effect with this mod, is the sound from 5000-7200 rpm. I noticed a louder, higher pitched, and more aggressive sound in that range after the mod.
I like the GT3 tribute with wheels and body kit, but the GT3 badge is a bit much. just my humble opinion. Best of luck on your future mods, but try and enjoy it the way it was designed. It's a special car even with just 355hp.... btw 296 hp x 20% drivetrain loss = 355 hp.. exactly stock numbers.
Last edited by qikqbn; 07-29-2019 at 12:38 PM.
#7
Not sure if this is a fair review. This mod should really be used together with a BMC or K&N hi flow air filter. When compared to the stock "accordian" like intake tube the smoother intake and slightly larger intake area should provide less turbulence and possibly better air flow. I would also say that IF the mods are providing smoother air flow then your ecu needs time to adjust. One other major factor I noticed is that your 1st and highest hp run was done with your rear deck closed. Therefore the air being sucked into the oem intake was coming from outside the engine bay with cooler air and taking advantage of the hot engine bay being closed off from the air box intake opening. Your dyno runs with the new intake mod were done with the rear deck lid open and therefore you were sucking in hot engine bay air and not taking advantage of having the rear deck closed as designed for cooler air intake.... So your test conditions between the two are not equal. Besides the heat I also would wonder if your ecu would be adjusting for any additional air flow and in some cases even applying too much fuel at first to compensate for easier air flow, which would cause a rich fuel mixture at first, and you would definitely be down on power with too much fuel compensation. It was a nice attempt, but next time consider closing the rear decklid, maybe doing several more runs or even a short drive for the ecu to adjust, and then even running a fan towards the intake opening while the decklid is closed..
I have a similar intake on my car along with K&N filter, IPD competition plenum, and GT3 84mm throttle body. After any intake mod I always reset the ecu by unplugging the battery for several minutes. Then I go out for an hour drive and take it through all types of driving conditions from cruising to full throttle runs through all the gears. This should give your ecu time to rebuild some of the fuel maps and make adjustments for the better air flow. The ECU is smart enough to make small adjustments, but it needs more time in my opinion than just back to back dyno runs.
One thing you mentioned, which I believe is a noticeable and nice side effect with this mod, is the sound from 5000-7200 rpm. I noticed a louder, higher pitched, and more aggressive sound in that range after the mod.
I like the GT3 tribute with wheels and body kit, but the GT3 badge is a bit much. just my humble opinion. Best of luck on your future mods, but try and enjoy it the way it was designed. It's a special car even with just 355hp.... btw 296 hp x 20% drivetrain loss = 355 hp.. exactly stock numbers.
I have a similar intake on my car along with K&N filter, IPD competition plenum, and GT3 84mm throttle body. After any intake mod I always reset the ecu by unplugging the battery for several minutes. Then I go out for an hour drive and take it through all types of driving conditions from cruising to full throttle runs through all the gears. This should give your ecu time to rebuild some of the fuel maps and make adjustments for the better air flow. The ECU is smart enough to make small adjustments, but it needs more time in my opinion than just back to back dyno runs.
One thing you mentioned, which I believe is a noticeable and nice side effect with this mod, is the sound from 5000-7200 rpm. I noticed a louder, higher pitched, and more aggressive sound in that range after the mod.
I like the GT3 tribute with wheels and body kit, but the GT3 badge is a bit much. just my humble opinion. Best of luck on your future mods, but try and enjoy it the way it was designed. It's a special car even with just 355hp.... btw 296 hp x 20% drivetrain loss = 355 hp.. exactly stock numbers.
This is not my car
My 997 c2s is classic with lobster wheels and color Atlas Gray
I just came across a video and shared it ..
I agree with everything you wrote. Now I ask myself if I have to switch to BMC or it is possible to stay with only silicon.. According to the site of Fabspeed for full performance it is recommended to install BMC but not required. Am I missing something?
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The following 2 users liked this post by Petza914:
f911 (07-30-2019),
Porschetech3 (07-30-2019)
#9
By the way, I changed the original intake later on, and mainly following a problem of hesitation that I have and still has not solved. A real mystery.
Is the fact that I switched only the silicone without the BMC / K & N filter can be the reason that the hesitation was not resolved?
I will note that at the same time I intend to clean my MAF and replace a spark plug bosch (two things I have not yet managed to do because of lack of time).
#10
This is not my car
My 997 c2s is classic with lobster wheels and color Atlas Gray
I just came across a video and shared it ..
I agree with everything you wrote. Now I ask myself if I have to switch to BMC or it is possible to stay with only silicon.. According to the site of Fabspeed for full performance it is recommended to install BMC but not required. Am I missing something?
My 997 c2s is classic with lobster wheels and color Atlas Gray
I just came across a video and shared it ..
I agree with everything you wrote. Now I ask myself if I have to switch to BMC or it is possible to stay with only silicon.. According to the site of Fabspeed for full performance it is recommended to install BMC but not required. Am I missing something?
Hello Petza914 How are you?
By the way, I changed the original intake later on, and mainly following a problem of hesitation that I have and still has not solved. A real mystery.
Is the fact that I switched only the silicone without the BMC / K & N filter can be the reason that the hesitation was not resolved?
I will note that at the same time I intend to clean my MAF and replace a spark plug bosch (two things I have not yet managed to do because of lack of time).
By the way, I changed the original intake later on, and mainly following a problem of hesitation that I have and still has not solved. A real mystery.
Is the fact that I switched only the silicone without the BMC / K & N filter can be the reason that the hesitation was not resolved?
I will note that at the same time I intend to clean my MAF and replace a spark plug bosch (two things I have not yet managed to do because of lack of time).
Try these steps:
---If you have done any type of intake mod, unplug the battery for several minutes. Let the ecu reset. Then go for a long drive and cover all types of throttle input situations repeatedly.
---If this does not solve your problem you may have a bad batch of fuel. Fill up with Chevron Techron Premium and also buy a small bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner and go for a long drive similar to previous step.
--Also, recheck your installation of all modified parts. Maybe part of the intake got caught up in the clamps and you introduced an air leak.
--If those don't work, then maybe you have some bad spark plugs or a cracked coil pack. If you have never done a spark plug and coil pack service and your car is 10-13 years old now... It may be time.
The following users liked this post:
f911 (07-30-2019)
#11
To be honest... This mod, the smoother intake and valve plug parts, are mostly about SOUND, but do have the added benefit of smoother inner wall and a bit larger intake tube. Believe it or not... if you look at the MAF housing inside the oem airbox you can measure the diameter where the bottom portion of the intake tube attaches. It measure 82 mm, the same as a GT3 throttle body opening. BUT, then, as the intake tube meets your throttle body it shrinks down to 74mm. Porsche has programmed the ecu to work with this size difference, but all I am really saying is that having smoother intake walls and a bit larger diameter is not going to hurt anything, but improve. This in conjunction with the BMC filter will get you the most... Maybe 10-11hp as some dynos show. Without the filter you are mostly getting sound improvements.
I always have a can of CRC MAF cleaner. I clean my Maf sensor at least once per year. I have never had any maf faults using both K&N cone shape filter intakes, or the K&N/BMC oem flat replacement filters. If you have never cleaned your maf sensor then I would highly recommend that. Your hesitation issues could be a few things. As I mentioned in a previous post.:
Try these steps:
---If you have done any type of intake mod, unplug the battery for several minutes. Let the ecu reset. Then go for a long drive and cover all types of throttle input situations repeatedly.
---If this does not solve your problem you may have a bad batch of fuel. Fill up with Chevron Techron Premium and also buy a small bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner and go for a long drive similar to previous step.
--Also, recheck your installation of all modified parts. Maybe part of the intake got caught up in the clamps and you introduced an air leak.
--If those don't work, then maybe you have some bad spark plugs or a cracked coil pack. If you have never done a spark plug and coil pack service and your car is 10-13 years old now... It may be time.
I always have a can of CRC MAF cleaner. I clean my Maf sensor at least once per year. I have never had any maf faults using both K&N cone shape filter intakes, or the K&N/BMC oem flat replacement filters. If you have never cleaned your maf sensor then I would highly recommend that. Your hesitation issues could be a few things. As I mentioned in a previous post.:
Try these steps:
---If you have done any type of intake mod, unplug the battery for several minutes. Let the ecu reset. Then go for a long drive and cover all types of throttle input situations repeatedly.
---If this does not solve your problem you may have a bad batch of fuel. Fill up with Chevron Techron Premium and also buy a small bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner and go for a long drive similar to previous step.
--Also, recheck your installation of all modified parts. Maybe part of the intake got caught up in the clamps and you introduced an air leak.
--If those don't work, then maybe you have some bad spark plugs or a cracked coil pack. If you have never done a spark plug and coil pack service and your car is 10-13 years old now... It may be time.
Thank you!!