This is a great idea!!!

Full disclosure ... I missed the part in the instructions that says "clean with denatured alcohol" so I'll blame myself for the tool's failure. A dry flush would eliminate that hassle / problem.

 

When I use mine wet, I spray it out with brake cleaner afterwards.

 

So, I've never done this before. And the car is ready for it. Any links to doing it myself? Any suggestions on fluid and how much?

have lift and a little mechanical skills.....thanx, Mike

 

The Motive pump generally includes a catch bottle. I use Motul 600 RTF. Figure 2 pints.

Jack the car up and remove the wheels or do one wheel at a time.

Use a baster (or other suction device) to suck the master cylinder dry. Add fluid to fill the master cylinder.

Attach the bleeder tool either with or without brake fluid. Pump it to about 15 psi (higher pressures speed up the bleed and you may opt to adjust the pressure). As you bleed the pressure will reduce and you will need to pump it back up from time to time.

Start at the right rear (furthest from the master cylinder. Pop the rubber cap on the outer side of the caliper. Attach your catch bottle. Loosen the bleed valve (11mm wrench) to allow fluid to flow.

If you put two points into the bleeder you're set. If not, watch the master closely and don't let it go dry or you'll need to attach a Durametric to operate the ABS system to bleed that.

You want to bleed enough fluid to flush each line. Right rear ... figure a bit over half a pint. Tighten the bleed valve, unplug the catch bottle, wipe everything clean, and move to the inside bleeder on that caliper. This requires just a few tablespoons to flush it.

Move to the left rear and repeat. Then the right front which doesn't need as much flush. Finish at the right front.

Release the pressure and carefully remove the bleeder from the master cylinder being careful on spills ... Brake fluid dissolves paint!!!

I wrap the bleeder in a plastic garbage bag for safety and keep lots of rags handy. Dispose of all rags when done.

 

I use a water bottle and tubing and the cool part is, it allows for an easy and effective one person brake fluid flush procedure.

Put a bit of used/new brake fluid in the water bottle around an eighth full to act as a barrier to the atmospheric air.
Then, take the water bottle cap, insert two holes. One thick enough to insert the tubing (you can buy from Lowes or Home Depot. It looks like clear surgical tubing.).
The other hole should just be needle thick to allow escaping air bubbles to float up through the brake fluid barrier and to escape out as you flush. Cut a length of tubing around 2.5 to 3 feet in length. Next, insert one end of the tubing into the water bottle cap through the big hole you put in and secure the cap onto the bottle. That end of the tubing should go down into the bottle and be submerged into the brake fluid. The other end of the tubing should connect to the brake escape valve nice and snug. You can use a needle nose pliers to stretch the end of the tubing so that it goes onto the brake nozzle on the calipers. Next, loosen the brake nozzle nut on the caliper (you need to repeat this on the inner and outer nozzle) and press down on the brake pedal (don't floor it as that may damage the master cylinder) two or three or four times. Go back out and look at the tubing. You should see that the brake fluid has flowed into the tubing. If it hasn't exited into the bottle yet, press down on brake peddle a couple more times until it does and make sure you see no air bubbles. If you see air bubbles, you'll need to continue to press down on brake pedal. Be sure to check brake fluid reservoir as you will need to periodically top off the fluid to prevent air from entering the system. Once you see no air bubbles, you're done with that nozzle. Tighten up and repeat on the other side of caliper, then on all four wheels. Be sure to follow the proper caliper order. (I forgot that..but it easy to look up.)

I just found a video illustrating this:

Have fun.

 

I have always been curious. Why does caliper order matter, since the lines split off the master cylinder, and it is a sealed system, assuming you don't run the Master cylinder dry?

 

A little tip => Get a proper brake bleeder valve wrench (do NOT use a simple 11mm hole-wrench => the nut gets rounded very easily)
The right tool grabs the nut from multiple sides, not just diametrically opposite. Some folks have had success with a stubby wrench, but I'd recommend to get the specific tool.

 

I just bled my brakes this weekend, sort of. I managed to pump air into the system, twice. Apparently there is a first, and second time, for everything -forehead slap-
I've had the Motive tool (Red) for a while and used it for years on another car. I usually use it "wet" and clean it out with denatured alcohol afterwards, but this time around I thought I'd try the dry method since it seems popular here.

I bought the Euro adapter that swivels (excellent feature), pumped up the dry Motive, and started bleeding the old fluid out or the right rear caliper into clear 500ml arrowhead water bottle. (I like to use clear tubing and a clear bottle to see changes in fluid color)
Since I didn't know how much fluid the master cylinder holds I checked the levels frequently to not blow air into the system. After a few checks I realized I was being overly paranoid and let it run for a bit until I had about 300ml in the drain bottle. I depressurized, took the motive adapter off the master cylinder, and could see what looked to be about a 1/2" of fluid left in the right side of the reservoir. I wanted all the old fluid out, so I decided to drain it "a bit more". I re-pressurized, and started to drain again and within a few seconds I blew air though the rear line. I'm guessing the orifice for the rear lines sits a bit higher in the reservoir than that of the front lines? I say that since there was still fluid visibly covering the bottom of the right side of the reservoir.

I topped off the reservoir with fresh Motul RBF600 and began bleeding all four corners. I then promptly forgot I wasn't using the "Wet" method and by the time I got to the last corner I blew air again. Hahahahaha - I slowly stare off into space silently contemplating my mortality -

Since this is my first time with a Porsche do I really need the Durametric to fix this? Or can I just manually pump the brakes while it's bleeding (and would I need to turn the key on)?

Of course none of my local auto parts stores sell Motul so I had to order more from Amazon. I'll be using the wet method next time around...

Oh and +1 on using a brake bleeder wrench.

 

esi
Thanx Wayne. Great write up. So, using the Motul (I used on my KTM's) is compatible with the OEM brake fluid for residual? Finishing up at the right front or left front (closest to the master)?

Next c couple of weeks i'ma gonna pull this off., Along with some Hawk ceramics.

Cheers, mike

 

Right front first followed by right front. Fluids are compatible.

 

Thats only ok for NASCAR right? no need for the lefts? LOL....

 

I use the MITYVAC Vacuum Brake Bleed Kit, Model # MV6835 ... I use it on all of my vehicles.

 

I use this for the caliper bleeding with the Motive Power bleeder with the Metal Euro cap with great results.

As for wrenches, get the flare nut style (doesn't have to be brake bleeder specific).