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I'm seriously considering an 06 Cab S that went through an independent PPI and was generally deemed well-sorted, no oil leaks he could find (some "moisture" on the transmission pan but he said it didn't concern him too much) and appearing to have been used but maintained and not abused. Inspector thought it'd need some maintenance sooner than later to replace original rubber in places but overall thought it was a good example of a cared-of 13 year-old car.
My plan is to do a major maintenance immediately -- it's got nearly 80,000K already and the belt (older but no cracks) and air filter highlight the need for one and figuring best to be certain and get it done.
Being very new to the model and brand, thought I'd share some of the pics in case something jumped out and welcome the feedback and thoughts. Already learning a lot and getting excited to find a good 997.1 to enjoy...
Appreciate the quick reply and welcome others. Should have mentioned that it's a Tiptronic. Here are a few more pics -- PPI showed that the rear rotors are getting close to minimum tolerance but fronts were good, tires had 50% or better tread (manufactured and installed late 2017) and pads on the front were new. Noted that the oil level was low but thinks the mechanic who did an oil change to prep it for sale (independent dealer) didn't know to put enough in based on lack of clear leaks and said no blue smoke upon cold startup etc.
nice looking cab, and it looks pretty clean underneath, despite some residual fluid on the outside of the tranny. As mentioned, that could be from a weeping rear main seal, which is not a big deal, and can be remedied later (although as a tip, you would not be replacing a clutch while you're in there). I also agree that it looks like it was not meticulously maintained. I haven't seen an air filter that dirty before.
Right front center cap has a chip in it. Lugs bolts are pretty beat up too. Both are easily replaced DIY.
Engine/transmission wetness is pretty common rear main seal (RMS) leak. Not a big deal as long as there is no oil spotting under the car. Have the RMS changed out when the clutch is done.
The wetness near the front of the engine could be water pump. I'd take a closer look there. Perhaps clean the engine then see what comes back. Proactively changing the water pump is a good idea.
Originally Posted by linderpat
I like the headers - do you know what they are?
Those are stock 3.8L headers found on 997.1 S models without the X51 power package. In other words standard S headers.
I would question the maintenance of the car based on how badly scratched the underside of the front bumper/spoiler is.
To me, you can have an accident and park too close to something (most likely a parking curb in this case) once or twice. But when you end-up with an under bumper that looks like this one, I suspect neglect. There's no way you can scratch you car on an almost daily basis and pretend to care about it.
Hey there @Submariner2009 I got your note and sorry for the delay. I would drop the PPI report in for the guys too.
My comments:
- Pete pointed out the weeping RMS and Transmission. Im not sure what the process is to fix either. As @linderpat mentioned, its an easy thing to replace while changing the clutch. But without a clutch...I dunno. I also don't know if the transmission seal is straightforward maintenance or not. Personally I would dig until you get the answer to those.
- The clunking the PPI reported when going over speed bumps is more likely the front strut mounts vs the control arm bushings. Those are common. They cost about $125 / pc but you need to pull the whole strut out to get to them Its a DIYable job but not a particularly fun one. It will probably cost about $1500 at an indy to fix.
- The chewed up AC switches can be replaced from www.MACarbon.com for $150.
- The top looked a little faded and worse for the wear. Im not sure if those can be refurbished or cleaned up.
- For general reference, Tips are less "desirable" but to each his own.
How much is he selling it for? A tip + cab will typically trade 10-15% below market. If its priced right it could be a really fun summer car. But you do need to budget some maintenance:
- Strut mounts: $1500 at an indy. To diy is will cost $300 for the fronts, $600 for all 4.
- 80k service: $2k at an indy I suspect. To diy plugs (I think < $200), filters ($150), belt (<$100), brake flush ($100). If it needs coil packs those are another ~$600.
- AC switches: $150
- Top refurb: ?
- Brakes & Rotors: $2k at an indy. To DIY the rotors will run around $600 and pads around $300.
- RMS: don't know, but no harm in leaving it
- Transmission seal: don't know
I would question the maintenance of the car based on how badly scratched the underside of the front bumper/spoiler is.
To me, you can have an accident and park too close to something (most likely a parking curb in this case) once or twice. But when you end-up with an under bumper that looks like this one, I suspect neglect. There's no way you can scratch you car on an almost daily basis and pretend to care about it.
I think its clear the owner sold before having to do the 80k service and brakes. I don't particularly like owners like that unless they are willing to sell for a big discount.
As for the underside, you should see mine. Im meticulous with the car but my gravel driveway has a big asphalt curb to get over and if I don't take it just right it scrapes.
I would question the maintenance of the car based on how badly scratched the underside of the front bumper/spoiler is.
To me, you can have an accident and park too close to something (most likely a parking curb in this case) once or twice. But when you end-up with an under bumper that looks like this one, I suspect neglect. There's no way you can scratch you car on an almost daily basis and pretend to care about it.
Originally Posted by TheBruce
I
.....As for the underside, you should see mine. Im meticulous with the car but my gravel driveway has a big asphalt curb to get over and if I don't take it just right it scrapes.
Agreed; you should see mine too. It is ripped probably worse than the OP's example, and my car is very carefully maintained. For awhile, it had the lowered springs on it, and it would scrape everywhere. I went back to stock height because I use the car almost daily.
Looks per normal. You could probably drive it for a couple years as is and sell again for no loss. If you want to spruce it up and do brakes, tires, etc it wouldn't be too bad especially if you don't mind doing the easy stuff yourself or go with aftermarket parts. RMS looks like it's weeping over the years so no big deal. Recent cleaning of those ares is more suspect. If there's no spots on the ground after it's been warm and parked it's probably not an immediate have to do. Suspension stuff is like any other car. If it bothers you and you can't wrench yourself it will cost you, so clunking and noises should be addressed in your purchase offer. They don't fix themselves or get any better.
Make sure the engine is good. This is a 10-15K car otherwise. Ask about oil consumption. This is nearly impossible to find out as most of these cars require oil top up before full oil services are done and most people don't record or remember quantities or frequencies. If possible get a bore scope inspection done of the cylinder walls if they can do that for you affordably. Usually this is not easily given by sellers and buyers think it is an upfront expense that is better in their wallet. Many of these cars have been sold that look and drive 100% that have started to consume oil and the owner has been advised to sell asap due to what that can mean.
Above all don't get mesmerized by the sweet sound of the flat 6. Listen for ticking, check the exhaust pipes for soot build up etc. All the stuff you've read about.
05-10-2019, 09:18 AM
2006 S Cab Lift Photos
