997 Maintenance Help
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 313
Likes: 7
From: Falls, Pa
I hate to be suspicious but if you are doing the work and while the car is in storage, I would check the coils and rotors diagnosis. It seems like low mileage for coils to go. If there were misfires, something is bad but it may just be one coil or plug. It also could be something else that is much worse. A good visual inspection should tell if the coils are really bad. Also, I would expect more life out of the rotors unless it has been driven hard and tracked a bit. The rotors can be checked within minutes. If you are paying a mechanic to do the work, I would just do it as it was recommended so your potential additional labor costs are pushed off for a while.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 1,042
Likes: 567
From: Colorado
I was in your exact situation a month ago. I picked up an '07 C2S with 49k miles. PPI showed cracked coil packs, but no misfire codes yet. My brakes are good for a while. The front tires, however, were pretty old and needed to be replaced despite having decent tread left. I replaced all 4 with Michelin PS4S's.
Agreed. I would also wipe up the area of the weep/leak from the RMS seal then monitor it. If the car is derivable with the clutch as is and the RMS isn't loosing a lot of oil, you can probably wait a little while and knock out the clutch and RMS down the road a bit. Here is what I did....
- Changed the oil and filter as soon as I got the car home to Colorado
- Replaced the engine air filter and cabin air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and front end of the throttle body (I did not remove the throttle body).
- Had the coil packs and spark plugs changed, had them check all other fluids for level and PH. Those checked out good.
- Changed manual transmission fluid (gear oil) proactively
If you take care of all of the stuff you have listed, you should be set for a while. If you are a DIY'er, you can probably knock some of that stuff out yourself. I brought my car in to an Indy for the coil packs and plugs, but did the rest myself, so that saved me a few bucks. My drive belt looks good and since my coolant PH is good, I'll probably wait until next year to do a coolant flush, new T-stat, water pump, drive belt, and associated pulleys/tensioners.
Actually, I think you have the priority order just right from a timing/need/$$ standpoint. If the clutch and brakes will make it to winter, that would be the perfect time for those and any other mods you have chosen by then. Oil, filters, plugs, coils are more "now" oriented and should be less expensive then the "winter" items.
- Changed the oil and filter as soon as I got the car home to Colorado
- Replaced the engine air filter and cabin air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and front end of the throttle body (I did not remove the throttle body).
- Had the coil packs and spark plugs changed, had them check all other fluids for level and PH. Those checked out good.
- Changed manual transmission fluid (gear oil) proactively
If you take care of all of the stuff you have listed, you should be set for a while. If you are a DIY'er, you can probably knock some of that stuff out yourself. I brought my car in to an Indy for the coil packs and plugs, but did the rest myself, so that saved me a few bucks. My drive belt looks good and since my coolant PH is good, I'll probably wait until next year to do a coolant flush, new T-stat, water pump, drive belt, and associated pulleys/tensioners.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
I was in your exact situation a month ago. I picked up an '07 C2S with 49k miles. PPI showed cracked coil packs, but no misfire codes yet. My brakes are good for a while. The front tires, however, were pretty old and needed to be replaced despite having decent tread left. I replaced all 4 with Michelin PS4S's.
Agreed. I would also wipe up the area of the weep/leak from the RMS seal then monitor it. If the car is derivable with the clutch as is and the RMS isn't loosing a lot of oil, you can probably wait a little while and knock out the clutch and RMS down the road a bit. Here is what I did....
- Changed the oil and filter as soon as I got the car home to Colorado
- Replaced the engine air filter and cabin air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and front end of the throttle body (I did not remove the throttle body).
- Had the coil packs and spark plugs changed, had them check all other fluids for level and PH. Those checked out good.
- Changed manual transmission fluid (gear oil) proactively
If you take care of all of the stuff you have listed, you should be set for a while. If you are a DIY'er, you can probably knock some of that stuff out yourself. I brought my car in to an Indy for the coil packs and plugs, but did the rest myself, so that saved me a few bucks. My drive belt looks good and since my coolant PH is good, I'll probably wait until next year to do a coolant flush, new T-stat, water pump, drive belt, and associated pulleys/tensioners.
Agreed. I would also wipe up the area of the weep/leak from the RMS seal then monitor it. If the car is derivable with the clutch as is and the RMS isn't loosing a lot of oil, you can probably wait a little while and knock out the clutch and RMS down the road a bit. Here is what I did....
- Changed the oil and filter as soon as I got the car home to Colorado
- Replaced the engine air filter and cabin air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and front end of the throttle body (I did not remove the throttle body).
- Had the coil packs and spark plugs changed, had them check all other fluids for level and PH. Those checked out good.
- Changed manual transmission fluid (gear oil) proactively
If you take care of all of the stuff you have listed, you should be set for a while. If you are a DIY'er, you can probably knock some of that stuff out yourself. I brought my car in to an Indy for the coil packs and plugs, but did the rest myself, so that saved me a few bucks. My drive belt looks good and since my coolant PH is good, I'll probably wait until next year to do a coolant flush, new T-stat, water pump, drive belt, and associated pulleys/tensioners.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Lol! It's not cheap. But if you talk to Jake he'll be glad to explain the charges. When it's done I'll have a unique, fast and beautiful 997, like no other in Nashville. This isn't about increasing the blue book value. It's about a car I'm in love with, and most importantly....peace of mind.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Lol! It's not cheap. But if you talk to Jake he'll be glad to explain the charges. When it's done I'll have a unique, fast and beautiful 997, like no other in Nashville. This isn't about increasing the blue book value. It's about a car I'm in love with, and most importantly....peace of mind.
Last edited by kpv3484; Apr 28, 2019 at 03:21 PM. Reason: Remove price
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Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,965
Likes: 691
From: San Francisco
When do you get it back?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 1,042
Likes: 567
From: Colorado
Lol! It's not cheap. But if you talk to Jake he'll be glad to explain the charges. When it's done I'll have a unique, fast and beautiful 997, like no other in Nashville. This isn't about increasing the blue book value. It's about a car I'm in love with, and most importantly....peace of mind.
Sorry, didn't mean to threadjack. @kpv3484 , keep us posted on the maintenance. For those who are saying that coil packs aren't necessary, it's important to point out that they do need to be replaced if they're cracked. I think that is money well spent.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
I deliver end of October, and completion is end of Feb 2020. Yeah I'm expecting around 50 hp, but Jake tells me the real performance gained by the 4.0L and his engine work is the torque, and power from 3000-6000 rpm, which is different from the high revving GT3.