Diagnosing PASM problem after Bilstein B16 installation
#1
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Hey guys, looking for some ideas from the community.
Over the winter I had a local shop (well versed in all things Porsche) install a Bilstein B16 Damptronics coilover kit.
Due to the insurance being removed and the weather we flat bedded the car home and I didn't start driving it until about 2 weeks ago.
The plan was to put in the B16 and then install a TPC DSC Controller (which I already purchased) to give me full control as a daily and occasional track days.
On the OEM Pasm controller the first days out I noticed how harsh the ride had become and pushing the Sport button had no effect on the stiffness of the suspension (as it did before when it was stock).
I waited another week before installing the DSC controller hoping this would solve the problem but the same thing has happened. Totally firm. All the time. Regardless of Pasm setting.
Reading through posts it seems that the car has defaulted to full firmness.
I spoke to Tom from DSC just this morning and after troubleshooting he confirmed the controller is operating fine and didn't know why I'm on full firm.
We pulled codes using his software and there were NONE.
If I had a pinched wire I should have seen a code.
And he claimed it didn't matter which direction the PASM wires are plugged in (polarity),
I have a Durametric Enthusiast that doesn't read any codes either.
So I'm booked into the mechanic for next week but wanted to get some insight to pass along before I go in.
Any thoughts??
Thanks
Over the winter I had a local shop (well versed in all things Porsche) install a Bilstein B16 Damptronics coilover kit.
Due to the insurance being removed and the weather we flat bedded the car home and I didn't start driving it until about 2 weeks ago.
The plan was to put in the B16 and then install a TPC DSC Controller (which I already purchased) to give me full control as a daily and occasional track days.
On the OEM Pasm controller the first days out I noticed how harsh the ride had become and pushing the Sport button had no effect on the stiffness of the suspension (as it did before when it was stock).
I waited another week before installing the DSC controller hoping this would solve the problem but the same thing has happened. Totally firm. All the time. Regardless of Pasm setting.
Reading through posts it seems that the car has defaulted to full firmness.
I spoke to Tom from DSC just this morning and after troubleshooting he confirmed the controller is operating fine and didn't know why I'm on full firm.
We pulled codes using his software and there were NONE.
If I had a pinched wire I should have seen a code.
And he claimed it didn't matter which direction the PASM wires are plugged in (polarity),
I have a Durametric Enthusiast that doesn't read any codes either.
So I'm booked into the mechanic for next week but wanted to get some insight to pass along before I go in.
Any thoughts??
Thanks
#2
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I had always heard those wires had polarity and to label them when removing since they can be connected either way. Were the B16s new or used? If used, the wire that comes out of the top of the rear struts has a tenancy to get damaged in shipment as the shocks slide around in the box, unless specifically packaged to prevent that like with a rubber hose section slipped over to top threads to keep the wire from bending and then getting cut. This happened to the used set I bought and the seller had to send them back to Bilstein for repair, at which time we also had them test and calibrate all 4.
I would start there and of course it's the rears where you have to disassemble the interior to be able to get a look at the top of the shocks /-:
I would start there and of course it's the rears where you have to disassemble the interior to be able to get a look at the top of the shocks /-:
#3
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I had a similar experience after installing new tie rods and lowering springs. All it took to remedy the issue was a wheel alignment. Evidently, If the toe angle is out of a certain range, the PASM and PSM won't operate and will throw warning lights. As soon as the alignment was completed every thing was back to normal. Good luck.
#4
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I had always heard those wires had polarity and to label them when removing since they can be connected either way. Were the B16s new or used? If used, the wire that comes out of the top of the rear struts has a tenancy to get damaged in shipment as the shocks slide around in the box, unless specifically packaged to prevent that like with a rubber hose section slipped over to top threads to keep the wire from bending and then getting cut. This happened to the used set I bought and the seller had to send them back to Bilstein for repair, at which time we also had them test and calibrate all 4.
I would start there and of course it's the rears where you have to disassemble the interior to be able to get a look at the top of the shocks /-:
I would start there and of course it's the rears where you have to disassemble the interior to be able to get a look at the top of the shocks /-:
I had a similar experience after installing new tie rods and lowering springs. All it took to remedy the issue was a wheel alignment. Evidently, If the toe angle is out of a certain range, the PASM and PSM won't operate and will throw warning lights. As soon as the alignment was completed every thing was back to normal. Good luck.
Any other ideas? Would like to give the shop as many options as possible...
#6
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I had the same experience after installing lowering springs. Horrible ride, then I went back to stock springs. Still had a horrible ride. I read about the polarity on the plugs and checked, yup there are little numbers in the plug a 1 and 2 also on the Male end, those numbers have to match up. I had all 4 backwards. It rose horrible. After the swap it was back to normal.
#7
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Guys, any other ideas?
The mechanic checked all the plugs today and everything seems fine.
He is going to do a continuity test on each corner tomorrow but if that checks out we are both stumped as to what it could be.
There is no way I can continue to drive like this forever. I feel ever pebble!
The mechanic checked all the plugs today and everything seems fine.
He is going to do a continuity test on each corner tomorrow but if that checks out we are both stumped as to what it could be.
There is no way I can continue to drive like this forever. I feel ever pebble!
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#8
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Still puzzled on this one.
Continuity check from the harness came back fine.
All 4 shocks are at 2.6 V (or AMPS... I forget).
Spoke to Bilstein Tech Support again and they claim that is correct.
They had no other idea why I am having these problems.
My last ditch effort is to put the STOCK PASM box back in and have them scan the car again.
Currently the TPC box is in the car and the shop cannot scan it.
Continuity check from the harness came back fine.
All 4 shocks are at 2.6 V (or AMPS... I forget).
Spoke to Bilstein Tech Support again and they claim that is correct.
They had no other idea why I am having these problems.
My last ditch effort is to put the STOCK PASM box back in and have them scan the car again.
Currently the TPC box is in the car and the shop cannot scan it.
#9
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I am not a mechanic however I have heard that PASM will not function with many of the lowering/suspension kits.
H&R springs are one of the few lowering kits that allow full function of the PASM.
I have H&R springs and that was the Porsche Dealer explained when I had PPI when I purchased my car.
Anyone up on this??
H&R springs are one of the few lowering kits that allow full function of the PASM.
I have H&R springs and that was the Porsche Dealer explained when I had PPI when I purchased my car.
Anyone up on this??
#10
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Still puzzled on this one.
Continuity check from the harness came back fine.
All 4 shocks are at 2.6 V (or AMPS... I forget).
Spoke to Bilstein Tech Support again and they claim that is correct.
They had no other idea why I am having these problems.
My last ditch effort is to put the STOCK PASM box back in and have them scan the car again.
Currently the TPC box is in the car and the shop cannot scan it.
Continuity check from the harness came back fine.
All 4 shocks are at 2.6 V (or AMPS... I forget).
Spoke to Bilstein Tech Support again and they claim that is correct.
They had no other idea why I am having these problems.
My last ditch effort is to put the STOCK PASM box back in and have them scan the car again.
Currently the TPC box is in the car and the shop cannot scan it.
997.1 or 997.2 and if a .1 did you also install the 3-axis accelerometer? If so, did you install that in the center console or at the rear near the DME?
#11
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Who installed the TPC box. Sounds like that might be your issue and that it's tied into the DME / Gateway incorrectly. My car is totally scannable with Durametric with my DSC module installed and connected. That could certainly cause the PASM to default to full stiff.
997.1 or 997.2 and if a .1 did you also install the 3-axis accelerometer? If so, did you install that in the center console or at the rear near the DME?
997.1 or 997.2 and if a .1 did you also install the 3-axis accelerometer? If so, did you install that in the center console or at the rear near the DME?
I installed the TPC box.
Took like 5 minutes.
Not sure why but my mechanic said his PWIS would not scan the TPC box.
What do you suggest we check?
#12
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Do the lights on the button work correctly?
#13
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If you see my first post I mentioned the old box didn't work either.
But I didn't scan the car for codes back then.... wonder if something could be stored that is faulting the TPC box?
I don't know...
The light on the button works perfectly.
Just nothing happens....
#14
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PIWIS will not see the TPC box, nor will Durametric. Only the OEM box can be scanned. They have different CAN bus IDs so it doesn't show up in a normal 997 scan. If the PASM button lights up when pressed and shows on the steering column display then chances are it's working and is not an electrical/controller problem. I would reinstall the OEM PASM controller and resolve the full stiff problems first, eliminate some variables here, then rescan with PIWIS or Durametric checking for error codes.
How low is the drop with the coilovers? Too low and it can be bottoming out on the shocks, hitting the bump stops, or putting too much preload on the sway bars with stock drop links. I thought B16s could only drop about 30mm or so. If it's near the limits start investigating adjustable drop links. Preloaded sway bars would definitely ride harsh, and feel funny when turning.
And were any other suspension components installed or replaced at the same time? Things like top mounts, lower control arms/pucks, or engine mounts? All of these give better handling at the expense of a harsher ride.
How low is the drop with the coilovers? Too low and it can be bottoming out on the shocks, hitting the bump stops, or putting too much preload on the sway bars with stock drop links. I thought B16s could only drop about 30mm or so. If it's near the limits start investigating adjustable drop links. Preloaded sway bars would definitely ride harsh, and feel funny when turning.
And were any other suspension components installed or replaced at the same time? Things like top mounts, lower control arms/pucks, or engine mounts? All of these give better handling at the expense of a harsher ride.
#15
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Thanks for your questions and that information see my replies below.
PIWIS will not see the TPC box, nor will Durametric. Only the OEM box can be scanned. They have different CAN bus IDs so it doesn't show up in a normal 997 scan. If the PASM button lights up when pressed and shows on the steering column display then chances are it's working and is not an electrical/controller problem. I would reinstall the OEM PASM controller and resolve the full stiff problems first, eliminate some variables here, then rescan with PIWIS or Durametric checking for error codes.
That's where I need some advice. Resolving the full stiff problem. The wiring is all good and the continuity is fine. The steering column displays correctly and the button lights up. But the car doesn't adjust it's firmness in the least.
How low is the drop with the coilovers? Too low and it can be bottoming out on the shocks, hitting the bump stops, or putting too much preload on the sway bars with stock drop links. I thought B16s could only drop about 30mm or so. If it's near the limits start investigating adjustable drop links. Preloaded sway bars would definitely ride harsh, and feel funny when turning.
No it's definitely not too low. I only went down to where the Eibach springs take you. Don't want/need that slammed look or ride.
And were any other suspension components installed or replaced at the same time? Things like top mounts, lower control arms/pucks, or engine mounts? All of these give better handling at the expense of a harsher ride.
Nothing but the Rennline Rear Toe Control Arm (with Bumpsteer) kit was installed to get a proper alignment.
I have a set of Rennline engine mounts I will be putting in once this all gets sorted.
That's where I need some advice. Resolving the full stiff problem. The wiring is all good and the continuity is fine. The steering column displays correctly and the button lights up. But the car doesn't adjust it's firmness in the least.
How low is the drop with the coilovers? Too low and it can be bottoming out on the shocks, hitting the bump stops, or putting too much preload on the sway bars with stock drop links. I thought B16s could only drop about 30mm or so. If it's near the limits start investigating adjustable drop links. Preloaded sway bars would definitely ride harsh, and feel funny when turning.
No it's definitely not too low. I only went down to where the Eibach springs take you. Don't want/need that slammed look or ride.
And were any other suspension components installed or replaced at the same time? Things like top mounts, lower control arms/pucks, or engine mounts? All of these give better handling at the expense of a harsher ride.
Nothing but the Rennline Rear Toe Control Arm (with Bumpsteer) kit was installed to get a proper alignment.
I have a set of Rennline engine mounts I will be putting in once this all gets sorted.