eschreyer

Cost was $350 plus I paid for expedited turnaround and overnight delivery, so ~$400. The large caps were replaced for sure; I suspect the smaller ones as well and it looks like the inductor was swapped too. It's possible the driver adjacent to the bank of caps was swapped (it looks pretty clean), but I couldn't tell for sure.

Wayne Smith

After spending over 40 years designing and supporting industrial control systems I've got to say the price you paid was very very very reasonable!!!

Bruce In Philly

Hmmm..... my soldering rig is calling to me....... caps are usually what fails... not sure why but that is my experience.

I am a total hack... but that hasn't stopped me.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Wayne Smith

Inductors generally don't fail. The driver I can't attest to ...

russellclaude

Wow, there is a lot to take in on this thread.... I have some comments from my own experience and then a question.

Problem: My Bose speakers seem to have one-by-one stopped working until finally the Bose subwoofers and the rear passenger speaker were the ONLY functional speakers.

Investigation: I took the PCM and just started wiggling things until all the speakers came on... unfortunately they all (except the one in rear + subwoofers) stopped working again as soon as I got the center console panels back on! I took the PCM out, wiggling all the wires and connections until realizing the source of the issue was an in-line fuse/coupling that as I rolled it around in my fingers the speakers cut on and off. So...

Solution: I took the fuse out of the inline coupling to check it and BLAMO! All the speakers came to! I put the fuse back in and they cut back out. (odd) So, naturally, I removed the fuse and put the center console panels around the PCM back in place. All the speakers work!

Question: What was that fuse I removed? What is now not operable that was otherwise operable? Seems my sound is still good- but perhaps something on the Bose side is not giving me the Amp juice my caar is equipped with?

Wayne Smith

There's no such thing as a good connection. And fuses can fail intermittently as well. I was driving a rental in Michigan in a snowstorm years ago. The wipers went intermittent. I located the fuse and when I banned on it the element wobbled. It was broken at the cap. It made connection, and then it didn't. I had my toolbox with me (I had flown in for a service call on a machine) with a gas powered torch. I heated up the cap, the connection healed, and I was on my way. You've found a problem, replace the fuse.

russellclaude

Turns out it (mystery fuse) was to something after-market the previous owner had installed... a blue-tooth car phone receiver. Weird. -russ

BHMav8r

Now that its summertime in the South, my radio is working fine.


For now.

Wayne Smith

So much for heat being the problem ...

BHMav8r

My problem is the cold.

Wayne Smith

I'm planning on installing the 9XX module along with an XM Radio box and back up camera next month. I will be cleaning the electrical and fiber optic connectors when I do this.

A point to remember ... There is no such thing as a good connection. Add to that ... Connections get worse (they start bad, but get worse) with time. I'm hoping the problem goes away once I've done a cleaning. More later.

Does anybody have a favorite go to product for cleaning fiber optic connections?


Note: This topic has been discussed for a long time. Too hot has been popular as it was only reported to occur after driving and a brief shut down. But then I had this happen when starting after sitting all night in a 40F garage. It used to be only at start up, but then I had it happen while I was driving. It used to require a power off rest period, but then I had mine recover spontaneously after driving for 15 minutes. The failure is rare and intermittent so getting a handle on it is difficult.

Primary focus on solutions has been on the amp but the only reported resolution was when the head unit was changed. This would have involved unplugging the connectors allowing the sliding action to clean the contacts. I'm hoping it is as simple as this. Time will tell.

BHMav8r

Keep us posted plz

Bruce In Philly

Fiber cleaner.... any high-quality photography lens cleaner fluid (mostly isopropyl alcohol).... Lay down a PEC pad, put a few drops on one section.... slide the cable end from wet to dry on the PEC pad. You actually need to wipe with a dry as well as with wet. I don't think I would go through the trouble, I would probably just use some compressed air.

When I get my tools out of storage, I am going to tackle the capacitor replacement... take maybe two hours at most.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

Wayne Smith

Thanks. All my connection headaches from 40 plus years in industrial controls were mechanical plug in type. I'm stupid when it comes to optical. Compressed air it will be. I'm afraid of scratches or other surface damage. I can control the air.

Looking forward to what you find with the caps. Fingers crossed ... That would be an easy fix 😀

Wayne Smith

Will do. Plan to. Will most likely start a new post with pictures on the install. I've had a couple long talks with the owner and he's in my area next month. We'll do the installation together on the 15th. He has prompted me on preparation. Apparently there is a method of drilling out a plug behind the right taillight that allows you to feed the rear camera cable directly through to the dash ... the only need is to remove the umbrella holder next to the passenger's seat. That would sure beat the other methods I've read about.