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No, different animals all together. The .2 head unit sends a very different digital signal to the amp than a .1. The digital processing in the amps is completely different with the .2 head unit and amp able to read DVD A, transmit it via a single, multi-format signal to the amp, and the amp can decode it into its native 5.1 surround channels or other format as needed (the head unit transfers the digital signal and the amp decodes a whole variety of formats). Good luck with your diagnosis... keep us informed.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Would I run into any issue with a new Apple carplay head unit with a MOST adapter to output into the Bose amp? I know I’d lose the 5.1 and be limited to stereo. Wonder if this would solve the issue overall.
Would I run into any issue with a new Apple carplay head unit with a MOST adapter to output into the Bose amp? I know I’d lose the 5.1 and be limited to stereo. Wonder if this would solve the issue overall.
I dunno. I am not into Apple, and regarding those MOST adapters.... with the .2, I read the MOST adapter is flaky... but maybe I just stumbled upon a problem. The MOST adapter's operation is different than the .1 because the protocols are different. I got the feeling, when the MOST stuff hit the market, that there is no market for the .2 MOST adapters hence lack of development.... I don't remember the details. But even if there was one that was solid, I would not use it. And this is only my opinion here..... there is no way that adapter will sound better than the native system and I want quality over any conveniences. Again, that is just my opinion.. There may... I am guessing here.... issues with my steering wheel controls and the like but I am not sure... I really don't want any error messages on my dash. Not to say there would be, but sometimes there are roads I just wont venture down and this is one of them.
https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT210/most-hur-997.html The way this one works, is it allows you to replace the head unit with aftermarket and keep the amp under the seat. IMO, this is just crazy... but that is just me. I fully believe to improve sound quality, you must replace the amp not the head unit....the head unit operates mostly in the digital domain.. the amp is analog baddie. No way that MOST adapter produces good quality sound.... or at least better than the native system. Again, in my opinion. I am about sound quality not cool features connected to a cell phone. Put it this way, I cringe when I turn on XM... I enjoy the programming but the sound offends me.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 03-23-2021 at 01:02 PM.
I dunno. I am not into Apple, and regarding those MOST adapters.... with the .2, I read the MOST adapter is flaky... but maybe I just stumbled upon a problem. The MOST adapter is different than the .1 because the protocols are different. I got the feeling, when the MOST stuff hit the market, that there is no market for the .2 MOST adapters hence lack of development.... I don't remember the details. But even if there was one that was solid, I would not use it. And this is only my opinion here..... there is no way that adapter will sound better than the native system and I want quality over any conveniences. Again, that is just my opinion.. There may... I am guessing here.... issues with my steering wheel controls and the like but I am not sure... I really don't want any error messages on my dash. Not to say there would be, but sometimes there are roads I just wont venture down and this is one of them.
As I understand how the MOST adapter works is renders the under-seat amp is dead. If that amp is the problem, then problem solved..... now that is for our .2 problem of the amp cutting out but still playing the sub-woofer. This issue appears to be the dominant problem with the .2 system.
oh oh.... new issue. I powered up the unit and the AM radio played... wha? I know I had it on XM.... hit the button and XM disappeared!!! No XM... then I pushed the button again, and there it was.... I selected it and it worked fine. My programmed buttons et al were fine. Goofy!!!
I was happily driving my 2010 4S Cab back from my first Covid shot this morning when I stopped at a gas station on the way home to fill up. It was about an hour away, and with the top down and 48 degrees I had the heat blasting and the radio jacked up pretty loud. Restarting the engine after gassing up, I got Sub-only audio with nothing from any of the other speakers, and the sub was hot to the touch (presumably from blasting the heat in the footwell along with the dash vents).
With 91k on the clock, this has never happened before, so as soon as I got home I fired up a search for "Radio" in the 997 forum to see what you guys had already figured out on this. Needless to say, I was thrilled to see 185 posts (now 186 posts) identifying this problem and sharing solutions. Having spent the better part of an hour reading through all of this, I think I'm landing in Bruce's camp of this being a heat-related shutdown (at least for me). Like you guys, just turning it off while driving didn't solve it, but all was well after 30 minutes in the garage at home as it fired right up after cooling down. So like you guys, I'll keep an eye on it, and if this starts happening with some regularity I'll throw some of the thermal paste in that seemed to work for Bruce.
I found myself kind of nerding out on the details in this thread, so thanks for all of the impressive sleuthing on this
Last edited by North Shore 911; 04-14-2021 at 01:05 PM.
I was happily driving my 2010 4S Cab back from my first Covid shot this morning when I stopped at a gas station on the way home to fill up. It was about an hour away, and with the top down and 48 degrees I had the heat blasting and the radio jacked up pretty loud. Restarting the engine after gassing up, I got Sub-only audio with nothing from any of the other speakers, and the sub was hot to the touch (presumably from blasting the heat in the footwell along with the dash vents).
With 91k on the clock, this has never happened before, so as soon as I got home I fired up a search for "Radio" in the 997.2 forum to see what you guys had already figured out on this. Needless to say, I was thrilled to see 185 posts (now 186 posts) identifying this problem and sharing solutions. Having spent the better part of an hour reading through all of this, I think I'm landing in Bruce's camp of this being a heat-related shutdown (at least for me). Like you guys, just turning it off while driving didn't solve it, but all was well after 30 minutes in the garage at home as it fired right up after cooling down. So like you guys, I'll keep an eye on it, and if this starts happening with some regularity I'll throw some of the thermal paste in that seemed to work for Bruce.
I found myself kind of nerding out on the details in this thread, so thanks for all of the impressive sleuthing on this
Welcome to the club!!! I've had this happen on a cold morning first start so I'm not in the too hot camp. I've had the problem after a simple power off and on within seconds routine. I've had it fixed by shutting down the motor and starting up up immediately. So that tells me it's a power on problem. But I've also had it self heal while driving. So who knows???
Nope, no real answer. I'm partial to the theory about intermittent capacitors. I've had this happen to me on cold/cool days (even with the top down!) so I'm a bit skeptical about it being heat per se. I could see heat exacerbating a capacitor problem but it has occurred at times when I wouldn't think heat was an issue unless the heat built up and wasn't being dissipated properly.
New info that (hopefully) will help others: My wife's 2014 Cayenne base w/ Bose audio had the same symptoms as described earlier: audio fine when car is in ACC mode, but after the car starts, only the subwoofer is heard. Larrysb's logic is sound; the DSP portion of the amp is functional, as audio is coming from the subwoofer, but the drivers for the rest of the speakers aren't getting power. I removed the amp and opened it to look at the circuit board, but all looked ok, nothing burnt, etc. My rework skills and equipment are lacking, so I sent the unit to Circuit Board Medics in Greenville, SC. Overnight express, same-day turnaround and the audio works as it should. I did open the unit up before I reinstalled it and lo and behlold, the capacitors had been replaced. My guess is that some of them deteriorate to the point that thermal or current fluctuation push the power circuit enough that it ceases to function. For those with similar issues, and board rework skills, this may be an inexpensive fix.
I know this is a 997 forum thread, but the audio systems are pretty similar. The amp in our 958 has a p/n 7PP.035.223.AA which comes up as a Boxster amp, so I'm guessing these are all pretty similar.
New info that (hopefully) will help others: My wife's 2014 Cayenne base w/ Bose audio had the same symptoms as described earlier: audio fine when car is in ACC mode, but after the car starts, only the subwoofer is heard. Larrysb's logic is sound; the DSP portion of the amp is functional, as audio is coming from the subwoofer, but the drivers for the rest of the speakers aren't getting power. I removed the amp and opened it to look at the circuit board, but all looked ok, nothing burnt, etc. My rework skills and equipment are lacking, so I sent the unit to Circuit Board Medics in Greenville, SC. Overnight express, same-day turnaround and the audio works as it should. I did open the unit up before I reinstalled it and lo and behlold, the capacitors had been replaced. My guess is that some of them deteriorate to the point that thermal or current fluctuation push the power circuit enough that it ceases to function. For those with similar issues, and board rework skills, this may be an inexpensive fix.
I know this is a 997 forum thread, but the audio systems are pretty similar. The amp in our 958 has a p/n 7PP.035.223.AA which comes up as a Boxster amp, so I'm guessing these are all pretty similar.
Excellent information and in line with what others have been saying. Is it possible other parts were also replaced?