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See "AudioPilot" below. I will try this out tomorrow.... I am 99% sure I have this turned off... whenever I get a new system, I turn all the gimmicks off.
See "AudioPilot" below. I will try this out tomorrow.... I am 99% sure I have this turned off... whenever I get a new system, I turn all the gimmicks off.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Do you think the Audio Pilot could fix the problem?
Glad I found this thread.
Exact same thing happening to me.
Not too often luckily... mainly after a long drive and I turn the car off (for gas or something) then turn it back on again.
So weird.
I'm gonna yank it all out soon and go aftermarket head unit and amp but this would be nice to solve in the mean time.
That AudioPilot has nothing to do with things cutting out..... I posted it because larrysb described the noise cancelling circuitry which was a total surprise to me.... that there was a second microphone in the car ..... so I was a bit off topic.
I purchased thermal paste and a fan..... took out the amp today... took it all apart.... then....I opened the box to the fan. Oops, wrong fan. They shipped the wrong fan. So, dope that I am, I should have checked the part before I started.
So I tested the old fan.... works fine.. at least it spun like crazy wired to a 9 volt battery..... no dirt blocking the air passageways.... so... it probably is not the fan anyway.... maybe.
For the pasting, the white paste on there looked fine... not dried out at all and since there was plenty of it, I just re-piled it up using a toothpick. I did add the new paste to the other side.
So I am not going to order a new fan right now..... it is going to be a goopy mess if I open it again.... but we will see if the added paste and knocking it around like I did helps. If it continues to cut out, I will order a new fan and replace the capacitors that I can swap out. Here are the specs on the cans (I did put a digital micrometer on them but I am a bit sloppy using it)
Oh.... I suspect that "mystery connector", the unused connector, is for a cab not a coupe. The PCM manual suggests that noise cancelling is for the cab and not the coupe but it is not clear. I have a coupe. Further, I dicked with the noise cancelling selector (AdioPilot) and it did nothing..... it not only did nothing, but I could not hear anything changing at all.... I really think the sound cancelling is absent in my coupe.
No the mystery connector isn't used in the cab either. I traced some of it out, it is all low-level signal and internal data. Not used in our cars at all near as I can tell.
I'll look up suitable caps if anyone wants to replace them.
Noise canceling appears to do nothing in mine either.
Finally got out yesterday for the first in three months. Several stops. Sound cut out on two restarts. But auto corrected each time on the next restart.
On my F250 some times on a start the radio won't work and the power windows won't operate. The two failures are connected. After driving long enough they audio cure.
I've replaced all associated parts. No change. I'm figuring a configuration error on the CAN bus at start up while the battery in under load.
Okay here is another datapoint. 3 hour trip to Dallas in 94 degree heat. Radio was fine until I turned the car off to gas up. Turned it back on and no highs. I checked and the fan that I know works was not spinning. It has been about an hour with the radio on but volume low. Still didn’t kick back on. I am going to shut the radio off for awhile and see if it comes back on after awhile. Amp didn’t feel warmer than normal.
Update: After about 15 minutes with the radio off, blank screen. I turned it back on and all is fine now.
Typical. I blame this on voltage surges during start up or a communications fault during the initialization at start up.
My last few days playing with a Durametric have made me suspect about the robustness of the communications in our 997.
I've never had a failure during operation. It's just something I've learned to accept.
I've mentioned before that my 2004 F250 has a similar problem where at start up both (as in ... linked together) the radio and power windows fail to operate. But in that case they self heal in tandem at some later point while driving. And on one occasion I have had them fail not on start up but while driving.
Shutting the car off then on again, as when stopping for gas on a long trip, always meant a dead stereo... except for the woofer.... yep, that is classic.
Interesting the fan was not spinning.... maybe it is not thermal per se...... maybe heat is causing a capacitor to fail ..... crazy.
There are lots of choices in the smaller parts. The footprint is what counts. They are surface mount, so you have to double check the foot print before ordering. The datasheets have the foot prints, but I tried to pick the ones you measured the diameter.
These parts are all polarized, meaning they have a + and - side. They have to be installed correctly.
The big ones are through-hole, meaning they have wires. Clean the conformal coat from the solder joint and use a vacuum desoldering iron to suck out the solder.
It's easy to damage the board if you're not used to this stuff.
The surface mount is a different ball game. Tiny and very to damage if you haven't done it before.
If you have a buddy nearby who's into electronics and well equipped for working on modern stuff, it should be very easy.
Thanks for the detailed explanations @larrysb . The capacitors make much more sense to me than thermal issues (the previous theories) based on my experience. I've had the sound cut-outs occur on cool days with the top down. I know heat issues can be localized but it just never made sense -- especially since the fuse-out-fuse-in reset trick worked to reset the sound every time. I understand the theory of what you're talking about but have only done minimal basic soldering in the 30 years since I left college so am not confident of my skills in this area. Will have to keep an eye out for someone who is more experienced and better equipped but in the meantime am bookmarking this explanation.
There are lots of choices in the smaller parts. The footprint is what counts. They are surface mount, so you have to double check the foot print before ordering. The datasheets have the foot prints, but I tried to pick the ones you measured the diameter.
These parts are all polarized, meaning they have a + and - side. They have to be installed correctly.
The big ones are through-hole, meaning they have wires. Clean the conformal coat from the solder joint and use a vacuum desoldering iron to suck out the solder.
It's easy to damage the board if you're not used to this stuff.
The surface mount is a different ball game. Tiny and very to damage if you haven't done it before.
If you have a buddy nearby who's into electronics and well equipped for working on modern stuff, it should be very easy.
Thanks Larry & Bruce. I was going to open it back up today to get the specs off the parts to order them. This is right up my alley as I have access to everything to rework such a simple board. Since these are dumb components I don’t have to worry about any programmable chips. I love doing this kind of stuff as I do it each day at work and I love my job. More to come.
06-02-2020, 08:58 PM
