Where were you using the cleaner, on the outer door sill where both those switches are located, or on the latching mechanisms themselves

If you're hearing the click, no reason they shouldn't be opening. Were the doors open for a long time while cleaning where you may have depleted the battery too far? Does the car start? Same result if the switches are tried while the engine is running? Does the frunk open with the button on the key?

 

 

Battery may be fine and just the interior lights being on for 30 minutes may have dropped the voltage. Try it again with the engine running if you haven't already, and if that works, just take it on the a longer drive or hook it up to a battery charger. If the battery is a few years old, that's a different story, and having it checked is a good idea.

 

 

I realize that this is an after the fact and going forward alternative to your problem but once you get the engine lid open, I suggest that your consider this post that I recently placed.

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ase-cable.html

 

 

I would pull the switch and jumper the wires to see if it's a switch problem or a latch mechanism problem. If jumpering the switch wires works, then replace the switch. If not, we need to keep digging.

To get the switch out without breaking it, you need to remove the inner door sill that it's installed in. There are two screws on the inner edge (facing the seat) behind little caps. You want to loosen those screws but not remove them and then the sill remove straight up.

The other thing to try, maybe even before removing the switch, is to have someone else work the switch while you gently press on the front hood where the latch mechanism is. If it's under load for some reason, it may not be allowing it to release and you gently pushing that area may release the load and allow it to pop.

 

 

Momentarily jumper the two wires that go to the switch, which is what the switch actually does when you pull the toggle. If you're hearing the motor cycle when you lift the toggle switch at the door sill, but the lid doesn't pop up to where you can open it, it's not the switch. If when you pull the switch, you hear nothing, then it may be the switch. The switch is just an electric one that connects the two wires, not any type of mechanical cable release like in older cars.

 

Don't these cars come with rear manual release cables? Would the electric actuator be another culprit?

 

Yes, they do. The rear engine lid one is behind the left turn signal, but unless you've thought about this and rerouted it prior, you have to open the engine lid to get the tailight out to access the cable. I extended mine and brought it down between the rear heat shield and bumper so I can reach up under the bumper and open it if the electric release fails.

The front one is behind the drivers side turn signal unless the wire has moved, and if so, you'd have to remove the front wheel on that side and partially loosen the front wheelwell liner to access it. Otherwise, you should be able to pop out the turn signal on that side using a plastic card (doubled up hotel keys work great) and then reach it with a hook tool.

Yes, the pop actuator could be bad or stuck or bound up and that's why the hood won't pop open even though he hears a sound when operating the switch.

 

 

Isn't there a motor back there too. Seems like there's a pop and then you can hear something running. I'll try one and see.

 

I was able to get to the wire using some paint sticks to slightly spread the opening between the bottom of the tail light and the bumper. Then using a flashlight, I was barely able to see the wire and then pull it out using a coat hanger.